Mackpro

No BL's last night, I was up at 6 on my way to work, Got your text this morning. I was at my other job, I work 7 days a week in the winter so I can have more play time in the summer!. I would say just replace the turbo actuator/VGT when you get that many codes on it. Unless you have a wiring/harness issue or oil/coolant in the harness/ engine ECM or an air pressure issue to the . VGT or to the VGT controller box. With the local guys, I usually clear the codes and recalibrate the turbo and let them run a day and see what happens, but usually we end up replacin the actuator. Thoses things are $$$$$ about $1100 I think. And some times their like your starter "dont want to come off".

It was on last night, did anyone see it besides me?

I would unplug the AC compressor and see what happens, this time of year people use their defroster alot and with the defroster on the A/C compressor runs. If there is a A/C high pressure issue the fan clutch could be coming on due to this. Last winter I had a CV with a stuck expansion valve, Everytime he turned the defroster on the head/high pressure would build up and turn the fan on. Also if the water pump was changed have the dealer double check that they put the correct one on. There is one for the AI engine and one for the AC engine, they both look the same and will bolt on but the pully slightly different in diameter. On the thermostats, I would change them and the new improved thermostat kit will have better o-rings and one thermostat opens at 180 and the other opens at 185 to help prevent coolant surge.

It's all about the weight and money. The Mack rears cant come close to the weight savings. And he will have done traded in the truck by the time durability comes into play.

Make sure its not the air compressor to engine block gasket leaking, I have seen those leak and make it look like the oil pan gasket was leakin. And like Higgy said, silicon where the front timing cover and rear flywheel housing meet the block.

Follow the lower radiator pipe from the radiator to the engine, on the engine you will see a rubber "Y" hose, remove the "Y" hose and in it there should be a metal screen where the "Y" pipe meets the engine oil cooler. I would remove it , clean it, replace it or just throw it away. Most all ASET engines had this , the AC engine in the CX/CH and the AI engine in the CV/LE/MR. Here is a Mack service bulletin that is about the AC EGR engine but this is the same screen as on your truck. sb214056.pdf

Customer reports that he loves the truck, The 505 has more power than his 485HP and at first got 1/2 of a mile per gallon better (6.5 MPG) than his old truck on every run and after a few weeks of running he is getting 3/4 of a mile per gallon ( 6.72 MPG) better the more it gets broken in. He does short, heavy loads in stop and go traffic.

Our sister store sold 15 to a customer and after a month the customer ordered 15 more. I cant remember if it was a 415 or 445 MP-8 but all did have the M-drive trans and small sleeper. I can get the specs if you want. Customer reported 7+ MPG and some in the 8 MPG range.

With key off, unplug all 3 engine ECM connectors and check for oil of antifreeze in the harness connection. especially the top right one. This code is a low voltage code for the Behr electric engine fan. Check the engine fan connection plug and wires. Does the fan ever disengage?

What model? cx/ch, rd or le/mr

You could remove the DPF, disassemble it and knock out both filter and cat elements, reassemble it, put it back on the truck to make it look like it was all orignal. Cap off the fuel line to the 7th injector. Then you would have to get a laptop with the Mack VCADS software and interface (about $1500 + the laptop) . Then zero out the Soot ratio and you could probably get a day out of it before it would want to regen. Then at the end of the day or next morning, zero out the soot ratio again and good for another day.

The engine speed sensor is on in LH side of the engine flywheel bellhousing, goes in from the side. The engine position sensor is on the front timing cover. These 2 sensors get misidentified alot. Both are the same part number and will interchange with each other. The egine position sensor has to be agjusted with shims while the enine speed sensor does not.

When we have actuator codes, we pull the actuator and have a guage to check the stroke of the turbo vanes. About half the the time the turbo vanes wont go the full stroke ( open to close) and this will cause a actuator code, the only fix is a complete turbo/actuator package. I had one a few weeks ago and the turbo stroke showed good and the actuator showed bad. So I put a actuator on and it made it about 50 miles and the turbo blew apart. Its a crap-shoot with these things.

Were off till Tuesday. One of our other stores might have the seat (we still havent got one) and can get it in. We have sold and installed the grill/bumper guards on our localgas haulers CX/CXNs so I know we can get them. I wish our parts dept work on commission as they would be more motivated to get some parts in to sell. I'll see what I can find out.

The engine seems to be more responsive and run better when the timing is advanced, however going over the 1.5 degree can cause overheating in the summer time. Over time gear wear and pump wear cause the pump timing to lower. I have seen 10+ year old engines thet were never touched ( as far as the pump goes) that had low pump timing as much as 2 degrees. And I'm sure the EPA /emissions had something to do with setting the pump timing where they did.

I think there is a fuse for the dash cluster and also just wiggle the wires on the back of the cluster, worth a shot. However we put alot of clusters in that era CX's and the CH's that used that style dash.

I would lean towards timing also . I would get the pump timing checked and bump it up no more that 1.5 degrees over what it says on the valve cover. The rings in the Econovance could be shot as well. The intake temp sensor could be going haywire and giving false signal to ECM causing the wrong timing. Rare but I have had 2 bad VMAC2 ECMs that caused no timing advancement. On that last invoice what oil line was replaced? The oil supply line to the Econovance? Oil supplied through that line to the Econovance control valve/solinoid is what make the timing advance/retard.

Bigen, big boobie pix texted to you phone, so whats the results?

With the new SCR MP8 the EGR is used less that ever before. If we ever get the EGR differential pressure sensor port "plugging" issue firgured out the EGR system will be pretty much trouble free. I think the new ECM downloads are part of the fix. Mack is removing alot of parts on the newest SCR MP8's . The 7th injector has been majorly simplified, no more water cooled 7th injector, just a tiny little injector with a small single fuel line, not even a electrical wire going to it. And now the DRV valve has been removed, and kits are available to remove it on the older SCR engine. The bugs are getting worked out. Alot fewer warranty claims on the SCR engines than when the first DPF engines came out.

Whats the last 6 of the VIN and also what trie size are you running? I was going through my notes and found this " Here's a little tip for 427 CCRS engines with low power. We bought a fleet of 2002 CH's with this engine and all were low on boost pressure and power. We changed turbo and injectors, adjusted valves and did everything we could think of and still low turbo boost/ power. I called my buddy at our other Mack location and he said to replaced the injectors with 460P (736GB420M3X) ones and call Mack and have them turn on engine datafile 1MS5135. We did this and WOW what a difference, went from 22psi boost to 30 psi and this was after we put the old turbo back on. " Ok, with that being said your engine is not a 427 or CCRS version of the ETECH if it really is a 2000 model but with your VIN I can see how yours came from the factory and see what could be cheaply done to help.

Was out back in the scrapyard cutting some wiring connectors off of a junk Volvo. The Volvo was pushed back into the woods and when I made my way through the bush I took this pic.

When you turn the key on, does the red X and yellow lighting bolt come on for 2 seconds the go out? And also does it have a Auto-shift or Ultra-shift (automatic) transmission? I have seen the EUP (unit pump)harness short out against the block and cause this problem

Finally got done with it today. Will post pics later, it is a 505C engine and the trans is a T310 Mack 10 speed. Turned out good.

I guess if the truck was going to Cali I would want the stickers on there but this is a local truck so the stickers are comin off. We will just swap out the lights as our truck sales dept is always needing the roof lights when removing condo sleepers or areo roof fairings.

I gotta take off the "Clean Idle" sticker tommorrow and if the tires and wheels show up then put the stainless full fenders on the back. Truck was ordered with bullet lights on top but came with standard lights so I gotta change them out as well.