Lmackattack

not really... IMHO the best way to learn is hands on. All engines operate the same. just diffrent parts in diffrent MFG. the old mack and GM motors were easy can and cummins had some tricks and diffrent stuff bolted to them that can throw you for a loop. just my .02

I drive a 1996 IH WITH A 3406E it has 400k on the clock and it has needed the following. Cam, 3 injectors, exhaust stud upgrade, exhaust gaskets,turbo gasket,jake solenoids,fuel return hose. Over all the engine gets 5.50 - 5.65 mp Driving it like I'm late all the time. It goes like hell and never left me stranded yet. I would rather have a old mechanical but love the big hp and 18 speed. It's the best pulling hiway truck I have driven.

Had the same thing on my 1977 RS700L. I removed it and put in a newer style valve. it always leaked air. Question for you... Does your truck have front brakes? If not how much foot pedal pressure do you need to give to lock the rears. My truck does not like to stop and I have new shoes cams,slacks and hardware...

I really think your family should find a way to keep it or loan it to a museum For free but you keep the title and in charge of it. You may be surprised that down the road your son or another relatives kid may some day enjoy how well maintained your grand parents kept it. I hear to many stories of people trying to find a old car or truck that shared history with a deceased or older generation family member. I can tell by a few of the pics that he did a lot of upgrades and kept it very well maintained. Just my .02 Trent

My advice is to find a newer R model and take both door panels for parts....A late 90s R model will have a diffrent door latch than that on a 76'. Take all the old parts off and replace them with the new parts. just keep the old door latch intact. the door latch will pretty much be the only diffrence with a new vs old door panel. Now you may want to buy a new window channel,window felt channel and the 2 wipers that screw into the door . the felt is held in with little brass clips that have barbs. you cut the strip to length and then push into the channel the window rides in. the wipers should be installed on the door before you install the panel.

yep.... thats exactly why I did not like them. to slow in the first 2 gears for anything on road... then all the big steps afterwards. ever driven a 12 speed..... those are perfect for all your needs.

sounds like they will be very similar to drive., Macks with a 2070 commonly had that big overdrive but slow rear gears,your max speed was in the 62-68 MPH. same goes with the 2 stick 6 speed. direct trans and 4.17 rears made it a 62MPH truck. Personly I like the 2 stick out of those 2 transmissions. the 2070 was kinda weird. sometimes with a normal load you needed to take off in the low side other times not. where the 2 stick 6 speed would just about walk away in 1st direct all the time. and good on ya for looking after them old trucks. learn to drive one of them and you become a real trucker that stands above the rest.

love the old pic with your grand dad.....is that a 64 caddy next to the truck?

If i recall right the 300 was a maxidyne and had more tq than the 350 but a 350 had more hp and if geared right would out pull a 300. My thoughts are a 300 is a better off road low rpm lugging engine and a 350 was better narrow power band engine suited to on road duty.

sounds like its geared if your only turning 1700RPM at 70MPH your truck has real tall gearing to keep the factory designed 285L in its sweet spot. When you re cal the pump to a 2100 RPM 300 You will have more top speed but not the needed HP to pull it to 2100rpm. Like I had said before the idea with the 285L and 300L were slow RPM / fast driveline speed. most of the 300L I drove were max 62 MPH trucks. My advice for you would be to first find what trans ratios you have then gear it to run 1800-1900RPM at your desired highway road speed. just be carefull because a 300 may be able to pull a load to 60MPH with little trouble but 70MPH may be flat footed.

my cheeks would be black and blue when I was done mototboating her.....

Send me a pm with details. If I get some time this week I might be able to check it out....

The big over drive can hurt your mpg. Most of the low rpm engines I saw had a T2060,2070. Behind them. Top gear was .60 over drive. And had. 5.02-5.73 rears. This was a common dump truck spec around here. If you bump up your pump to 2100 rpm and don't Chang the gearing, the engine will burn more fuel trying to keep up the fast drive line speeds. It sounds silly but that's how it works. There is a fine line with to much overdrive and not having the power to pull it. If I recall my friend never changed anything but the pump timing and had it calibrated for a 2100rpm maxidyne. I remember i could run it out of fuel in about 11 hrs. and his other truck of simmilar spec still had 1/4 tank left.! That's my .02

Fried of mine turned a 300 low rpm motor into a 2100 rpm motor. That thing drank fuel very fast but pulled better than before. All he did was have a pump shop re cal the pump and set it to a standard 300 timing spec.

I 3rd the motion...

I think the fourms go up and down with the season. Seams winter is the busy time and summer is a little slow. Thats how it is with my work and play time.

happy Bday terry......how many gray hairs this year?

IT HAS Superliner tanks on it and alum rear chunks. red interior, Smells like a fire truck and miss matched parts that was used to make this truck up???

yea that last one is great....thats real deal trucking right there!

yea smoke can be so many things. Is it low on power? you can have bad valve guides, turbo seals, incorrect pump timing, bad injector(s), bad injection pump, worn rings, cracked piston, etc.... best way is to do some basic tests on the engine and pump and hopefully.... or not..... you will find the clue. If these tests dont give you any ideas and if you have time pull the exhaust manafold and see if any of the ports are wet with oil.

LMAO.....David I think you should help him with this one before its to late....I too enjoy Vlad's posts but you opend this can of worms...... LMAO

yea its the spreading of the rails thats the big concern and hard to fix. surface rust is easy. However if its seeing rust on the surface I will bet that its started inbetween. it would be smart to put some POR15 in and let it soak inbetween to slow the rusts progress. Just my .02

Test drive....?