Lmackattack

If I recall it is just a Premium interior and exterior upgrade. ie Horns,stanless decretive panels. flashy lights, top of the line interior panels...etc...

yea that cab was rotted badly. I dont blame them for changing it out.

Neat idea .... some things that would need adjustments hope its an axel forward CH? the radiator may be to tall for the hood?? Batt boxes relocated. steering linkage

should be able to find a good used diff for $500-$1000 depending how hard you look. would also be faster to get it back on the road. The parts for that repair will cost you almost as much as a complete used diff. just my .02

whats the story with this place? I know they have a yearly show but was it a big company at one time? just a collector?

long before the U model Locomotives also tried the off set cab idea. for some reason a designer was given the green light to put a cab where you have no room, the engine is in the cab with you, its always hot, and there is no room for a jump seat.

Its a tipical TV show where money aint for nothing and get your chicks for free let me put it to you this way I had an empty trailer heading From Chicago to Long island NY. this was a company truck and we were just looking to pay for the fuel to NY becasuse we just haul our own stuff...... I went on U ship to look for a load. Found a few people shipping bob cats from Chicagoland to a ports in NJ and NY. Figured I could haul 3 or 4 bob cats easy. I put in a starting bid of $2000 and within 2 days that bid was under cut to about $700. Now my math tells me it would cost about that much in fuel never mind the toll roads? I guess there are lots of people looking to run for beer money? Best part was I get a call 5 hrs after I had left for NY. the Shipper said He wanted to use me as the winning bidder did not know he had to haul more than 1 bob cat. The "trucker" showed up with a pickup truck and u haul trailer. thought he was bidding on moving one machine. I

its a known issue with the electronic pedals on all makes of Trucks. they can go bad and not send the right signal.

It was a known issue but it can be caused from Lugging the Engine a lot, Vibration, block not line bored correctly. I have seen a few bad cranks and all were in trucks that were used in good service for 15+ years. So who knows if its was just worn out or over stressed? If I recall some mack mechanics said to check the block for stress cracks near the back. I dont remember what year they updated the blocks for more stiffness but that was an issue as well.? I would line bore the crank journals or try to at least check to see if its true. hopefully a mack tech can chime in with more info.

For all you train buffs the Classic trains mag is a real good read for anyone that likes to know the history of older locomotives and fallen flags. I will post some cool things I saw in previous issues PRR turbine http://www.zinio.com/pages/ClassicTrains/Spring-12/416206687/pg-20 http://www.zinio.com/pages/ClassicTrains/Spring-12/416206687/pg-22 Milwaukee Road http://www.zinio.com/pages/ClassicTrains/Spring-12/416206687/pg-46 Western maryland coal drag http://www.zinio.com/pages/ClassicTrains/Spring-12/416206687/pg-76

Ok Good. I thought it was cool to see some old Trucking companies using Macks. I will post some more

I have a subscription to Classic Trains and saw a line of of old Macks Circa 1920-1930 they are pulling Trailers off of flat cars. let me know if you can see the link http://www.zinio.com...416229663/pg-68

what was the reason for the open cab fire trucks? I know a lot of old trucks from the 20s had no doors by by the 30s,40s many fire trucks still had no doors or roofs?

let me guess ....300 maxidyne and it broke either near the rear of the block or the nose where the damper is located?

Thanks for sharing.....that was a hart felt poem

Everyone likes to rebuild them there own way. I like to have the book out for refrence when tearing one apart or building one back up. I have all the parts that need to be machined done first then order what I need. I like to mark everthing and bag them so I can keep track of what is what. I will say one thing Do not just throw things on a bench in a pile. parts will walk off and you will just get mixed up. The last engine I rebuilt was a 1965 Cadillac 429. Had a friend of mine check the machine work and we both put the block together. Heads were done by a machine shop and the rest was just bolt on,gaskets, hoses etc.... not hard just had to go slow and look at the notes I made or book for any help that was needed. Trent

not really... IMHO the best way to learn is hands on. All engines operate the same. just diffrent parts in diffrent MFG. the old mack and GM motors were easy can and cummins had some tricks and diffrent stuff bolted to them that can throw you for a loop. just my .02

I drive a 1996 IH WITH A 3406E it has 400k on the clock and it has needed the following. Cam, 3 injectors, exhaust stud upgrade, exhaust gaskets,turbo gasket,jake solenoids,fuel return hose. Over all the engine gets 5.50 - 5.65 mp Driving it like I'm late all the time. It goes like hell and never left me stranded yet. I would rather have a old mechanical but love the big hp and 18 speed. It's the best pulling hiway truck I have driven.

Had the same thing on my 1977 RS700L. I removed it and put in a newer style valve. it always leaked air. Question for you... Does your truck have front brakes? If not how much foot pedal pressure do you need to give to lock the rears. My truck does not like to stop and I have new shoes cams,slacks and hardware...

I really think your family should find a way to keep it or loan it to a museum For free but you keep the title and in charge of it. You may be surprised that down the road your son or another relatives kid may some day enjoy how well maintained your grand parents kept it. I hear to many stories of people trying to find a old car or truck that shared history with a deceased or older generation family member. I can tell by a few of the pics that he did a lot of upgrades and kept it very well maintained. Just my .02 Trent

My advice is to find a newer R model and take both door panels for parts....A late 90s R model will have a diffrent door latch than that on a 76'. Take all the old parts off and replace them with the new parts. just keep the old door latch intact. the door latch will pretty much be the only diffrence with a new vs old door panel. Now you may want to buy a new window channel,window felt channel and the 2 wipers that screw into the door . the felt is held in with little brass clips that have barbs. you cut the strip to length and then push into the channel the window rides in. the wipers should be installed on the door before you install the panel.

yep.... thats exactly why I did not like them. to slow in the first 2 gears for anything on road... then all the big steps afterwards. ever driven a 12 speed..... those are perfect for all your needs.

sounds like they will be very similar to drive., Macks with a 2070 commonly had that big overdrive but slow rear gears,your max speed was in the 62-68 MPH. same goes with the 2 stick 6 speed. direct trans and 4.17 rears made it a 62MPH truck. Personly I like the 2 stick out of those 2 transmissions. the 2070 was kinda weird. sometimes with a normal load you needed to take off in the low side other times not. where the 2 stick 6 speed would just about walk away in 1st direct all the time. and good on ya for looking after them old trucks. learn to drive one of them and you become a real trucker that stands above the rest.

love the old pic with your grand dad.....is that a 64 caddy next to the truck?