Lmackattack

It's a west coast r model built in Hayward ca. They were popular model for big hp engines and Will have a taller and longer hood than that of an east coast r600. They seam to be more popular for collectors. Kinda like the super liners are sought after. The frame width is also a little different than the east coast Mack's. It will have the same frame width as other truck mfg. Hayward built the popular RS/RL600L , RS/RL700L and FS/FL700L ,cruiseliner ,valueliner and super liner,until the early 80s when the factory closed.

On the r model that's how it works I assume the same for a cab over?

Even if the truck had a air shift. the air control valve (splitter) would be on the stick shift lever just under the handle. the air cylinder to control the shift would be on the transmission top cover near the stick shifter enters the transmission. But as said that cabover model has a 5 speed trans and did not have any air system to control it. Only thing that trans would have that looks like a wire, air line etc...would be a speedo cable near the output yoke, possible a clutch cable near the bell housing and possible a temp sensor wire or back up alarm sensor wire.

I looked at the link and must say you do alot of really nice building. I love all the attention to detail. If you dont mind, I posted some pics of the Cabover Mack from Convoy I built 10 years ago. I also posted a pic of the Mad Max R model I built around the same time There is a member here that built up the Duck truck and did alot of extra detail work like you did. Cant wait to see your finished Model.

Yes.... and I know from first hand experience! Motor boating was never so much fun with 4 of them present.

Just wondering.. Only seen use f,mh,ch,visions

Click more reply options and you will see a place to attach files. Select your pic off your computer then click upload...

Regarding the engine brake.... Some worked better than others. From my experience the jake worked better than the dynatard. But both were weak. They barely slowed the trucks I drove...

3.87 rears and a 12 speed is a great combo. As said you will louse a little power but you have every gear you need to work in the field or get home fast on the hi way

If I recall it is just a Premium interior and exterior upgrade. ie Horns,stanless decretive panels. flashy lights, top of the line interior panels...etc...

yea that cab was rotted badly. I dont blame them for changing it out.

Neat idea .... some things that would need adjustments hope its an axel forward CH? the radiator may be to tall for the hood?? Batt boxes relocated. steering linkage

should be able to find a good used diff for $500-$1000 depending how hard you look. would also be faster to get it back on the road. The parts for that repair will cost you almost as much as a complete used diff. just my .02

whats the story with this place? I know they have a yearly show but was it a big company at one time? just a collector?

long before the U model Locomotives also tried the off set cab idea. for some reason a designer was given the green light to put a cab where you have no room, the engine is in the cab with you, its always hot, and there is no room for a jump seat.

Its a tipical TV show where money aint for nothing and get your chicks for free let me put it to you this way I had an empty trailer heading From Chicago to Long island NY. this was a company truck and we were just looking to pay for the fuel to NY becasuse we just haul our own stuff...... I went on U ship to look for a load. Found a few people shipping bob cats from Chicagoland to a ports in NJ and NY. Figured I could haul 3 or 4 bob cats easy. I put in a starting bid of $2000 and within 2 days that bid was under cut to about $700. Now my math tells me it would cost about that much in fuel never mind the toll roads? I guess there are lots of people looking to run for beer money? Best part was I get a call 5 hrs after I had left for NY. the Shipper said He wanted to use me as the winning bidder did not know he had to haul more than 1 bob cat. The "trucker" showed up with a pickup truck and u haul trailer. thought he was bidding on moving one machine. I

its a known issue with the electronic pedals on all makes of Trucks. they can go bad and not send the right signal.

It was a known issue but it can be caused from Lugging the Engine a lot, Vibration, block not line bored correctly. I have seen a few bad cranks and all were in trucks that were used in good service for 15+ years. So who knows if its was just worn out or over stressed? If I recall some mack mechanics said to check the block for stress cracks near the back. I dont remember what year they updated the blocks for more stiffness but that was an issue as well.? I would line bore the crank journals or try to at least check to see if its true. hopefully a mack tech can chime in with more info.

For all you train buffs the Classic trains mag is a real good read for anyone that likes to know the history of older locomotives and fallen flags. I will post some cool things I saw in previous issues PRR turbine http://www.zinio.com/pages/ClassicTrains/Spring-12/416206687/pg-20 http://www.zinio.com/pages/ClassicTrains/Spring-12/416206687/pg-22 Milwaukee Road http://www.zinio.com/pages/ClassicTrains/Spring-12/416206687/pg-46 Western maryland coal drag http://www.zinio.com/pages/ClassicTrains/Spring-12/416206687/pg-76

Ok Good. I thought it was cool to see some old Trucking companies using Macks. I will post some more

I have a subscription to Classic Trains and saw a line of of old Macks Circa 1920-1930 they are pulling Trailers off of flat cars. let me know if you can see the link http://www.zinio.com...416229663/pg-68

what was the reason for the open cab fire trucks? I know a lot of old trucks from the 20s had no doors by by the 30s,40s many fire trucks still had no doors or roofs?

let me guess ....300 maxidyne and it broke either near the rear of the block or the nose where the damper is located?

Thanks for sharing.....that was a hart felt poem

Everyone likes to rebuild them there own way. I like to have the book out for refrence when tearing one apart or building one back up. I have all the parts that need to be machined done first then order what I need. I like to mark everthing and bag them so I can keep track of what is what. I will say one thing Do not just throw things on a bench in a pile. parts will walk off and you will just get mixed up. The last engine I rebuilt was a 1965 Cadillac 429. Had a friend of mine check the machine work and we both put the block together. Heads were done by a machine shop and the rest was just bolt on,gaskets, hoses etc.... not hard just had to go slow and look at the notes I made or book for any help that was needed. Trent