Dirtymilkman

You can cut your thermocouple shorter. It changes nothing. Resistance has nothing to do with it.

If u get a aftermarket bumper make sure its the stainless clad aluminum. Most aftermarket bumpers are just chrome and the rust immediately

Not a fan of two tone fenders on the CH and cl style hoods.

Your DM should have a seat mount plate bolted to the floor. You just take the 4 bolts out of it and drill holes in the plate where u need them.

Exactly..... You need a knowledgeable salesman. The last truck I ordered took several days to go over. Do not buy anything till you fully understand how it works and what it'll do. And talk to actual owners and ask them what'd they'd do different.

The early '01 460's had a cam issue. Otherwise changing the oil goes a long ways. I'm running a 02 I bought new and all I did was replace a water pump and SRT valves and change injectors every 250,000 miles. It now has 900,000 miles. I always use stage 2 RFI injectors and have put 473 HP to the ground.

Those interior pics disgust me. My drivers are told that keeping the trucks clean inside and out is part of their job.

If you're running a one or two man company the CH will work out fine. I don't think it'll be working steady 16 hour days 6 days a week? You just need a decent general purpose dump, right? I bought a '94 CH once off a fleet lease, pulled off the bunk, added the 14,300 leafs to the front and ran the hell out of that truck. I bought it with 310,000 miles and sold it with 955,000. I never laid a wrench on the truck except for maintenance and a radiator. 350 with a fuller 9spd and 4.10 rears on air ride. That truck here could run a gross of 55,000#'s. Its now in North Dakota getting destroyed in the oil fields. I think that CH will be fine for you for a couple years till you decide if you wanna own more trucks.

I like that R

There's actually a camo CL in my area. The army has two of them for pulling lowboys

Classic New England? Tell me more

My '01 CL is due for paint. I'm thinking old school style striping. Any ideas? Layouts? Colors? Pics? Thanks

Many many years ago Mack rated power at the rear wheels. They did that because they were not a vendor engine. You bought a Mack the way they engineered it and built it. That way you had that amount of power to the ground. One issue though was price, companies didn't wanna pay as much for a 237 mack when a bigger Cummins cost the same.

Stick with what you have and rebuild it. You'll be money ahead to put the coin into it and do it right. The one in the CH could be just as bad too. CL's also have a shifter relocator on them because the tranny is so much further ahead. I would rebuild what you have or get a mack pedigree remack

It should be a electronic viscous clutch. It will always drag a little.

It was $80 when I ordered one in 2011

I never have changed anything but the knob I guess

Haha. Sane as the 18spd. Just different shifter

Go 18spd for sure if not a Allison. I have owned both and the 18 is by far better choice. You have a forward gear for every condition u encounter and still have 4 reverses. My trucks do a lot of backing up and besides from the old 2 sticks the 18 is the best. Make sure its the low reverse though. I have one that isn't and the high range reverses are useless. That 10spd will make the same motor feel like 100hp less when upshifting

Hey fireman, did he still have the cab for sale?

Hey fireman,phone # 320-510-0479 its in Hutchinson, Mn.

Much difference between L and A model?

This is for sale locally. Guy says 1951 Mack cab. He wants $125 for it. Says its solid and not any rust through.

You can get them either way. In fact you can put a one piece in any cab newer than '95.

Also, if you're really interested, pull a oil sample and check the coolant nitrates.