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Mr Black

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Everything posted by Mr Black

  1. Mr Black
    Hi, does anyone know if the T2100 has the same issues as the T2090? I have a chance to pick one up and I think it would suit what we use the particular truck for but am still haunted by the problems of the T2090 the truck was originally fitted with. I am told it is the same case as the T2090 so with some luck the original drive shaft can go back on. Any help would be appreciated before I commit. Would be good to ditch the Eaton and fit the gold dog again!!
  2. Mr Black
    really nice - great work
  3. Mr Black
    I didn't think of that. Will check out that space tomorrow.
  4. Mr Black
    I have tried to attach a diagram of the sleeper boot rubber. Apologies in advance if I have failed!! sleeper boot rubber.pdf
  5. Mr Black
    Will do, all going well, it will be all together within a week or so.
  6. Mr Black
    Hi mate, I tend to agree that it is not the best method by design but it is commonly used and I have bought very high end boot material that is used on new trucks over here. It's just a local on road truck so I am not expecting too much strain in any event. If I have trouble, I may put it on rails down the track.
  7. Mr Black
    Thanks Superdog - much appreciated. The rubber I am using is an accordian style - I was told by many that it is the best material for the job that is available in Australia (noting that there really isn't much available in Australia). If it lasts 5 years I will be happy. If we still have the truck then, I will put the sleeper on rails. Was originally planning to do it as part of this rebuild but just don't have the time. Cheers
  8. Mr Black
    Hi, I hope I can get some urgent input from those in the know. I have someone fitting a sleeper to my R Model in the next few days. The R cab is on air but the sleeper will be fixed to the chassis and connected to the cab with a rubber sock. All brackets have been made and are ready for mounting but I just want to be sure we are doing the right thing with respect to the fixed sleeper height. If the cab is propped into its operating position as if full of air (ie. level), should the cab and sleeper openings line up or should the sleeper sit slightly lower than the cab? If so, by how much? My installer was thinking that the sleeper should sit about 15-20mm lower than the relative operating position of the cab so the sock is not over-stretched when the cab is in its resting position. Anyone have an opinion on this? Thanks
  9. Mr Black
    Thanks all, this has been helpful. I think I will be mounting them on the plate that originally held the air con compressor, as I am not using genuine air con anymore. It's much closer to the pump than standard, but further from the tanks. I think it will be ok. That 285 in the B Model looks awesome!!!
  10. Mr Black
    Hi, I need to move the position of my fuel filters on a R Model with an EM6. They originally sat off the chassis behind the front wheel but I have mounted a battery box and air tanks there as part of a complete rebuild of the truck. I have a couple of ideal spots but they are above the height of the fuel pump. Is there any reason that this could cause trouble - ie. some sort of atmospheric pressure rule regarding height and fuel travelling uphill that I am not aware of? Any input before I start fabricating brackets would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  11. Mr Black
    This is very helpful - thanks.
  12. Mr Black
    Awesome - thanks
  13. Mr Black
    Hi, I hope you can help with a question. I am having a sleeper installed on my R Model and the installers need to know how the cab will sit with the cab air bag pumped up. Unfortunately I have no tanks or fuel lines attached to the truck as it has been stripped for painting so I can't start it. I don’t own a stand-alone compressor but could bring another truck on site and attach its air outlet to the R Model’s air tank. Do you think that will work to pump up the air bag or is it likely that a valve somewhere along the line will prevent the air from reaching the bag without the truck on? Otherwise I will have to just put a bottle jack under the cab and lift it to what I believe to be the operating height. Any other ideas? Thanks
  14. Mr Black
    Thanks Superdog - I wasn't able to get back to the truck in daylight but had a look with a torch and I can't see any bolt. Seems to go straight in. Any tips? I have an 18sp Eaton ready to go in so will only try to fix this issue if it can be addressed from outside of the box. Just waiting for the Mack to Eaton bell housing but it would be helpful if I could manouvre the truck on its own steam until I get the new box installed.
  15. Mr Black
    Hi, I have a gearstick that has come loose and is spinning. It is a R700 with a T2090 with bent stick. I will be changing the box soon but need to be able to manouvre the truck until I am ready. Because of the bent stick, when the stick spins out of position, I can't get it in any gear toward the dash. I can take the floor of the truck out easily. Is there a way to tighten the stick from outside the box or is this something that needs to be attacked from the inside? Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks!!!
  16. Mr Black
    Thanks all - at least I know I am not missing anything. Will have to adapt something....or bulk up a bit more!! I am only raising it now as the truck is about to be repainted so would be a good time to address the issue.
  17. Mr Black
    Hi, Can anyone with a RL/RS700, R700 or a RW Superliner let me know whether they have anything under the hood to help ease the hood down when lowering so it doesn’t come down with a crash on to the cab cowl. I don’t have anything at all under my RS700L hood to hold it in place when the hood is up. I can fix that problem by adding tethers from a R600. However, when lowering the hood on your own, it can easily get away from you and chip the paint on landing. Is there suppose to be something to slow down its descent? If anyone has any pictures of what they have under their long hood to help lower it (genuine or aftermarket), any pictures would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  18. Mr Black
    I am about 1/2 way through removing mine but became distracted by other more pressing jobs. Some of the internal screws are a bit hard to get to but otherwsie ok. I am in Australia so am not 100% sure if fitiings are the same as USA models. The dash is really pressurised in (from having fixings at multiple opposing points) and I am told most people crack the dash when trying to remove it. I haven't cracked mine yet and am not being particularly careful about it as I am installing a new one.
  19. Mr Black
    Awesome - do you have pictures from other angles to post?
  20. Mr Black
    Can anyone explain to me how an EM6 differs to an E6? I am restoring an '85 R Model that has an EM6 300. Can anyone tell me about this engine and whether it is worth keeping? It is not an EM6 300L. It is currently matched to a T2090 but that has issues so will be replaced with an Eaton 18 speed. Just trying to decide whether to go through the trouble of matching the Eaton to the EM6 or if I should re-power. Anyone have an opinion on the EM6? Is it possible to increase the HP? Thanks
  21. Mr Black
    Good work Paul - great find. I am in Oz also but have never seen this.
  22. Mr Black
    Hi Superdog, do you think I can get away with a 1200 series Eaton with the EM6? I have come across a good 15 speed. I have a similar Eaton box sitting behind a big cam Cummins in another truck (not a Mack) and it has given many years of trouble free service. Thanks
  23. Mr Black
    Hey, the Spicer is a 1420-3a. I have now come across a 15 speed deep reduction overdrive Eaton in good condition. This could be ideal as truck may do some moonlighting as a low loader. Will have to buy conversion kit if I go that way.
  24. Mr Black
    It would be good if I could get away with not changing the box at all for now as we may be re-powering in the future once truck restored. Are these boxes worth fixing if it is just a range synchro or fork? All low range gears are perfect but it has an intermittent problem in high range in that it sometimes won't accept a gear. On one occasion the gear went in but we couldn't get it out. It went on a tow truck that day and hasn't been on the road since. I have stripped it for restoration but have to sort out gearbox issue before reassembly. Any thoughts on whether it sounds like something that could possibly be repaired??
  25. Mr Black
    My T2090 was factory fitted to a '85 model. What generation would that be? It is good to hear from someone that has something positive to say about the T2090. Not sure if Mack remanufacture the T2090 in Australia - will have to check it out. I live in Brisbane (which is the home of Mack in Australia) so will have to drop in and ask. Cheers

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