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Mr Black

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Everything posted by Mr Black

  1. Thanks Joe, the Spicer I am looking at is rated at 1400 lbs so I think it should be ok. Just don't know if the housing will be physically compatible.
  2. Absolutely awesome!! I have never seen a 903 in a R700. Not sure if it was an available combination in Australia. You will have to post a video of it running.
  3. Yeh, I am really tempetd to try the Spicer. Anyone have any idea whether it would match the EM6 if it has come off a V8 866?
  4. Thanks everyone for your input. The reason for changing is that everyone here (in Australia) has said to stay away from the T2090. This is our first Mack so I am on a bit of a steep learning curve. We have had good history with Eatons and it really is the industry standard in Australia, particularly if you put a driver behind the wheel (which is likely to happen now and then) as that is what most of the driving schools use. This particular truck is getting completely rebuilt cosmetically. Engine is fantastic but gearbox has given us grief and now gets stuck in high range gears (if I can get them in at all). Cab is about to be lifted off and re-positioned so it would be an ideal time to do the conversion.
  5. Hi, I hope you guys can help me with some questions. I need to replace a T2090 which is currently matched to an EM6 300HP. There are not a lot of good 2nd hand boxes in the local market at the moment and my main choices are an Eaton RTLO1478B (which will need a Mack bell housing and notal mount) or a Spicer 20 speed (which already has the notal mount). My questions are as follows: The Spicer has the bell housing to suit a 866 V8. Will this bell housing and notal mount work with the EM6? Does anybody know what the torque rating is on an EM6-300 so I can work out whether the 14 series Eaton will be ok? The Eaton has a max torque rating of 1450. I have found a Mack torque chart but it does not have a listing for an EM6-300. It has the specs for an E6-300 or an EM6-300L, but not an EM6-300 (ie. without the L). The EM6-300L is rated at 1425 - not sure if an EM6-300 has a lower torque rating than the EM6 with the L. If the torque rating is 1425, do you think that is too close to the max rating for the Eaton of 1450.Hope someone can help. Thanks
  6. Thanks all, Seems like I will have to add a fair bit of expense to convert to Eaton. In response to your queries/comments: Application will be skel/flatbed trailers. However, we may also be getting some low end heavy haulage but may need to upgrade the EM6 for that. So the 18sp is probably not needed right now but could come in handy. Current 9 speed not really versatile enough. A 13sp would probably be enough. I have checked out the ratios and they should be fine. Cheers
  7. I am fairly new to Mack and just working through some compatibility issues. I am restoring a R Model with an EM6 matched to a T2090 9 Speed. The T2090 has an issue and I have been told (by many) not to bother fixing it. I have access to a good Eaton 18 speed (RTLO14718B) but am wondering if it is a lot of trouble to match an Eaton to an old Mack engine such as an EM6. What else do I have to buy to make it mount and work? Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thanks
  8. I am fairly new to Mack and just working through some compatibility issues. I am restoring a R Model with an EM6 matched to a T2090 9 Speed. The T2090 has an issue and I have been told (by many) not to bother fixing it. I have access to a good Eaton 18 speed (RTLO14718B) but am wondering if it is a lot of trouble to match an Eaton to an old Mack engine such as an EM6. What else do I have to buy to make it mount and work? Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thanks
  9. Does anybody out there have a picture of a front cab mount for a V8 Valueliner - ie. the last model with the long sloped hood? I am fabricating some mounts for a project R model and would like to know how it was done on these models (as they sit quite high off the rails). Anybody have a picture or know whether the V8 Valueliner sits higher than a Aussie Series 2 Superliner which has the fabricated mounts? Thanks
  10. Thanks gents, I don't know if I have a guage/Filter Minder as the truck has been parked up since I bought it and all I have been doing is stripping it for restoration - can't recall what guages it has. I suspected it would be some sort of sensor so I wouldn't imagine it is something I have to re-plumb while I have the temporary remote intakes fitted. Just thought I would check if anyone with R Model experience is aware of anything of this type that could be more important.
  11. Hi, I have a small hose coming off the air cleaner housing of my ’85 R Model. From memory, I would say it is about 8-10mm in diameter and comes off the side of the air cleaner housing. I am fabricating some new air intake parts but I forgot to check what the hose was for last time I was at the truck (which is parked off-site). Would anyone happen to know what it is for as I am trying to save a trip back to the truck (which is in another city) to check. I am temporarily installing a remotely located air cleaner while work is being done on the truck and I am hoping this hose can be ignored and temporarily blocked. I have a similar outlet hose on another truck and it is just a sensor for testing the air but I have never paid any attention to what the hose is for on the R Model. Any ideas? I am hoping not to have to make the trip out to the truck to check!!!
  12. I have just bought new cab shock absorbers, air bag and bumper-stop for my '85 R model. The previous owner removed the bumper-stop and the back of the cab has essentially collapsed on to the chassis. Any tips for a method to change these when you don't own any heavy/professional lifting devices etc?? Thanks
  13. It is an ’85 model but the complicating factor is that it is not actually a RS/RL – it is an Australian built R Model (which is essentially the same as an Eastern USA R Model). I am essentially rebuilding it to go back to work amongst modern trucks. As part of the rebuild, I am setting the cab back and lifting the height to take a RS700L hood that I have. There is heaps of clearance under the guards on an OZ R Model and it can look a bit excessive when you lift the cab height. I like the lowered guards on the Western RS hood so am setting the cab position to take the RS hood. As we don’t have RS/RL models in Australia, I have no idea what the standard height above the rails the cab should be. A may go a touch higher than standard but just need to get an idea of the stock position first. Once I get the cab height, I will fabricate the hood mounts to suit. Thanks
  14. No worries, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  15. Hi, sorry to start yet another similar thread but my R Model project has stalled because I need to work out exactly how tall a Western RS/RL/Valueliner cab mount is. Is there anyone that has a Western RS/RL/Valueliner that can post a picture of their front cab mount (to show how tall it is compared to the chassis) or measure the distance in height from the top of the chassis rail to the centre of the eye of the mount? It would be really appreciated if someone could help as we don’t have these models in Australia and I need to fabricate a cab mount to the correct height. Thanks!!!
  16. Thanks momack - that would be greatly appreciated.
  17. Is there anyone out there with a Western RS or RL that can post or send me a photo of their cab mount? The mount I want to see is the one at the front of the cab. I need to see how it differs in height to a standard East Coast or Oz R model mount relative to the chassis but can't find a picture on the net. Thanks!!
  18. Is there anyone out there with a Western RS or RL that can post or send me a photo of their cab mount? The mount I want to see is the one at the front of the cab. I need to see how it differs in height to a standard East Coast or Oz R model mount relative to the chassis but can't find a picture on the net. Thanks!!
  19. Firstly, let me start by saying sorry for all of the R model posts - I am new to the brand and am on a steep learning curve in order to get a restoration project done so the truck can go to work. With that said, can anyone explain how and when updates have been made to the cowl of R model cabs? I am aware of the +3 update but undertsand there was a change to the hood in the mid 80s which makes pre-update hoods incompatible with the post-update models. It seems the change is an extra inch to the hood for the front mounted intercooler. However, it also seems that the extra inch is at the rear of the hood and can be simply cut off to make it fit on pre-update models. If the extra inch is for the intercooler, I don't undertsand why it is at the rear of the hood. Did they move the cab back or change the cowl? If anyone can explain if there have been different cowls, that would be great. I realise later Superliners and RDs had a straight cowel but I am referring to the more traditional R Models from the 70s and 80s - from the East and West. Thanks!!
  20. Thanks Steve - sounds good. I will give you a call. Cheers
  21. Hi Steve, yes definitely some differences between USA and MTA models. My thoughts were to get the cab in the R700 position and at the height I want it, and then just fabricate whatever is needed at the front to get the hood in the right position. However, I think the front mounted intercooler is going to be a project-killer. Since you are in Brisbane, is there anyone you can recommend to do some of this work (ie. picking up the cab and moving into the R700 position)? I see that you do most of the work yourself so you may not know anyone. I have regular mechanics for our trucks but this is more within the domain of modification/fabrication. Thanks
  22. Hi, thanks for this info – it is greatly appreciated. As I do the maths in my head, I don’t think the RS hood will work in the standard R700 cab position. When I get the chance to get back to the truck, I will work it out properly but it doesn’t sound promising. Yes, my main concern is the height between the tyres and the fenders once I lift the cab up to a more modern height. The truck will be put to work once restored so I want it sitting up higher so it doesn’t look like a pumpkin truck. However, with the Oz hood, the space starts to become excessive as the fenders already sit quite high. The RS hood is the obvious answer to that problem but seems to create a number of other problems. Another solution would be to use a Series 1 Superliner hood (which, in Australia, will bolt straight on in the R700 position) but I would rather not stray too far from what the truck actually is – but I guess it is an option. The picture of the R700 you sent looks great. I wonder if they made a version that would fit around the front mounted intercooler. Not sure if I want to go through the trouble and cost of importing another hood from the USA though!!
  23. Hey Steve, I am in Brisbane. I have come across your R797 on HCVC - very impressed. Your fabrication skills are exceptional. Unfortunately I don't have your skills so need to stick to using genuine parts!! So, to answer your question, the following is what I have: '85 R686 with EM6 and Maxitorque boxUSA Western hood from a RS700L - this was originally bought for a R700 project that didn't go ahead so I figure I may as well try and use it on the R686 as part of its restorationSeries 1 Superliner cab mounts (which are about 4 inches taller than standard R600 mounts)The intention is to move the cab back into the R700 position using the Superliner mounts. I will be picking up a remote system to move the gear stick back and the longer R700/Superliner steering shaft. By the look of it, there doesn't appear to be much more to moving the cab back (other than exhaust and other pipe/electrical extensions). What I am not sure of is whether I can make this RS hood work. I guess it comes down to whether the cab on a Western sits in the same spot as a standard R and whether the Western hood will accomodate the front mounted intercooler. Will take some pictures next time I am at the truck. Where are you in Oz? Is the R797 finished? Would be great to see some more pictures.
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