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Mr Black

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  1. Mr Black
    Agreed, I think that would help. Unfortunately I don't have access to a RS700L as we didn’t get Westerns in Australia. I may have another problem anyway, which I didn’t think of until one of the posts above. I have a front mounted intercooler and it sounds like the RS700L hood may interfere with that. I have this truck parked up off-site so can’t check out how much space I need in front of the radiator to accommodate the intercooler for a few days. Do you recall if you have any space between your radiator and the front of the hood on your RS700L?
  2. Mr Black
    Thanks for your input. I raised the concern because I am worried the RS700 hood won’t fit once I move the cab back into the standard R700 position (it is currently sitting in the standard R600 position). I really don’t want to have to fit the cab in a non-standard position given the holes in the chassis are pre-drilled for R600 and R700 positions. I know Australian R models have the same cab positions as Eastern USA models (because we originally imported the Eastern hoods from the USA for Australian models). However, I can’t work out whether Western cabs sit in the same spot on the chassis as Eastern (and therefore Australian) cabs. I was first alarmed when I took a few measurements. My RS700 hood is about 22cms longer than the R600 hood that is currently on the truck. However, the distance between the pre-drilled holes on the chassis for R600 and R700 mounts is only 17.5cms. That means that the hood appears to be approx 4.5cm too long. Of course there are other things that may be relevant here. For example, firstly, I am told that the R700 mounts have a slight offset from the mounting bolts whereas the R600 mounts do not (although I am still waiting for the R700 mounts to arrive to confirm whether that is true). Secondly, the RS models mount on the radiator whereas my R600 mounts from the chassis. I guess I will work it out in the end but was just hoping to find some comfort that the R and RS model cabs sit in the same spot on the chassis (despite having other differences such as height) before I take this much further. It could be that this project is too much problem. I am raising the cab height and preferred to use a RS hood because of the lower guards – so that the space between the tyres and guards doesn’t become excessive. However, it could be that the differences between R & RS models just make it not worth trying!!! Any further input would definitely be welcomed. Thanks!!
  3. Mr Black
    Thanks for this. The RS700 hood I have is the later one so is taller through the centre - like the one in your picture. The chassis I am using doesn't currently have a R700 hood but has the holes pre-drilled in the chassis for the cab to be moved into the R700 position (as our Superliners in Oz were essentially R700 models with a different hood so every chassis was predrilled for long and short hoods - I understand the Superliner in the USA was a different beast). The next cab mount position on the chassis is less than 12" away so it concerns me a bit that the RS700 hood may be slightly different in length to a R700 hood. However, my Superliner chassis mounts haven't arrived yet and I understand that they are offset a bit as compared to standard R600 mounts so the difference could in the mounts themsleves. I guess I will know in a few days once the mounts arrive.
  4. Mr Black
    Thanks 2stack, I agree based on the pictures. I can't see a year on the RS/RL brochure but it appears (to me) based on the specs that it would be new enough to also have the +3 cab. Certainly galv cabs were not available in Australia prior to the +3 cab but maybe it is different in the US. Assuming the RL/RS in the brochure has the +3 cab also, I just can't work out why it would be over 12 inches shorter than the R700.
  5. Mr Black
    Hey Jim, do you have any idea of when the RS/RL brochure was printed? The reason I ask is that the combination of cab + hood has an overall length of 106.75 compared to 119.00 for the R700 in the other link you have provided. That is over 12 inches difference whereas my understanding is that the difference in hood length between a R600 and R700 is much less than that (probably around 7 or 8 inches). I guess I am trying to work out whether a R700 hood is the same length as a RS/RL700 hood. The only explanation I can come up with for why there is over 12 inches difference between the trucks in the 2 brochures is if the RS/RL brochure was printed prior to the cab update so that some of the extra inches in the R700 brochure are from the back of the cab and not all 12 inches are in the hood. Any thoughts?
  6. Mr Black
    Thanks Jim - that has been very helpful.
  7. Mr Black
    I am fitting a Western RS model hood to an Australian R Model. I like the RS/RL hood shape but we don't have the Westerns in Oz so working out fitment has been interesting. One thing I want to know is how much higher the cab sits on a RS700 compared to a R700. Is there someone out there with a RS600/700 that would be willing to measure the height of their cab mounts? The measurement I am after is the distance from the top chassis bolt on the mount to the top of the mount. The mount on a standard Oz R model is basically level with the top chassis bolt but I am sure the RS cab sits higher. I have some Series 1 Superliner mounts that sit about 4 inches higher than standard but would like to know the proper height of a RS/RL cab. Hope someone can help. Thanks
  8. Mr Black
    I have just bought a 1985 R686 with a 300 E6 and 9 Speed Mack box. I have what are probably stupid questions but will ask them just the same as I am finding this truck to be a different experience. Questions are below - hope you can help. Is there an easy way to tell if it is a 2V or a 4V? If I leave the truck for more than a day or 2, it won't start. So I had a mechanic fix all of the air leaks and valves on Tuesday. However, I went back to the truck today (as I have it in storage until restored) and nothing happens when I turn the key (today is Saturday). I assume it is still leaking from somewhere. How many days should the air last in the starter tank between starts? Until now I have been filling the starter tank from the trailer line of another prime mover but that is not convenient given where it is parked. I am going to buy a compressor to fill the tank as needed. Any idea what the minimum size compressor I can use for this purpose? There is a manual primer on the fuel pump. Should manual priming only be needed if the truck hasn't been started for long periods? I will be raising the cab height using mounts from an Australian Valueliner or Superliner I. One of the shocks on the cab suspension needs replacing. I would like to fix it now but don't want to waste the money if I need different shocks when raising the cab height. I assume I could use the same shocks but just block up the fixing mounts. Does anyone have an opinion on this?Hope you can help - thanks!!
  9. Mr Black
    That's good to hear - I had heard the 10 speed is a better box but this truck ticked most other boxes so I went for it. Hard to come across a good rust free R model in Australia and this one had a galv cab so I bought it.
  10. Mr Black
    It has a Mack 9 speed. Will post some pictures once collected. Cheers
  11. Mr Black
    Thanks to all for comments and feedback. After all this, I didn't end up going with the 237HP. I came across a '85 R686 with a EM6 300HP and bought it - will be picking it up in a couple of days. The main reasons were that it has a galv cab and a longer wheelbase so will take a larger sleeper. I hope no one has anything really negative to say about the EM6!!!
  12. Mr Black
    The thought has already crossed my mind!!
  13. Mr Black
    Thanks to all for your responses - this has been very helpful. I think I will just take the risk and buy it. If it doesn't work out I could always repower it or sell it.
  14. Mr Black
    I could be wrong as I am new to Mack but I don't think we had many 5 or 6 speeds in Australia - either that or I just haven't come across them. Mainly I have seen quads or 10 speeds in R600 models and 12 speeds in R700 models over here.
  15. Mr Black
    Great response!!! I am tempted to just buy this thing and see how it goes. I tend to ignore hp ratings given that our 300 mechanical big cam feels like it has more power than some modern engines that are rated at almost twice the hp. Still, 237 seems low but I am not a hp ego maniac and would be very happy if it could earn the same wage as a truck with twice the power!!
  16. Mr Black
    Thanks Bullhusk - I think it will be underpowered but I am still tempted. It's a very tidy truck for its age.
  17. Mr Black
    Yeah, my gut reaction was that it is far too underpowered but I have had no experience with Macks so thought I would put the question out there. Some Mack fans have said that the Mack 237hp pulls like a 300+ hp Cummins but I find that hard to believe. The one I am looking at has a Mack 10 speed box - not sure about the diff ratio. It is just for capital city work but does have to hit the highway - will probably be too slow. Hard to come by nice R models in Australia. There are a few 4 valves around but nowhere near as tidy as this '81 237hp. Thanks for your response.
  18. Mr Black
    I have been after a R model to restore and the best one I have found (in terms of condition) is a '81 with the 237 HP Mack engine. The truck will most likely be used for local container work (42 tonne GCM). I was after a later model with the 4 valve 300/350 hp but am now keen on this '81 with the 237hp. I don't know much about Mack engines but have been told to ignore the low hp figure on the 237hp because it has high torque. My question is whether this thing is going to be able to pull a trailer for local work or will it be a slug in the modern world? It will be doing the same work as our truck with a mechanical Formula 300 Big Cam Cummins. Do you think the 237hp can do the job or am I crazy for trying? Can always be re-powered later but probably not smart to buy it if it is really only suited for rigid work. I won't get the chance to try it with a trailer before buying it. Any input from anyone who has had experience with the 237hp engine or knows about them would be great. Thanks
  19. Mr Black
    I am chasing an R Model in Australia to restore. Does anybody know when the galv cabs started in Australia? I know the Valueliners had them but I don't want a set back front axle model. I have come across an '85 model that I want to have a look at but the owner doesn't know if it has a galv cab. I think '86 models had galv but I don't know how about '85. Can anyone help? Thanks
  20. Mr Black
    Hey, thanks for this - really good points. I didn't know the USA Superliner had a different frame but have noticed it has a different cowl to standard R models. In Australia, the Superliner is really just a R700 with a different hood (at least that is the case with the early ones). The more I think about it, the mounts from an Australian Superliner might be the best. The V8 Valueliner might be a good source also given the cab was raised for the sloped hood. Will see what I can find from local dismantlers. Cheers
  21. Mr Black
    I am trying to work out what I need so I can start collecting parts. The longer steering shaft is an obvious one. Can anyone think of any other major parts I will need? I am not so much worried about cable/hose/wiring extensions - just the genuine stuff I would have to get from a Mack dismantler.I want to minimise the work of the mechanics when they do the job by having everything I can ready for them. Do I need a different setup for the gearstick or will it just pop through at a different position in the cab?
  22. Mr Black
    I appreciate your help with this. I might send an email to Manders to see if they have any RS/RL mounts. They might be able to tell me exactly how much higher a Superliner mount is compared to a RS/RL mount. Will ask about second hand air-ride also. Thanks
  23. Mr Black
    Thanks FW - I guess that means there are different cab mounts for a RS/RL as compared to a standard R. I have no chance of finding these in Australia. Could probably get some shipped from Manders.
  24. Mr Black
    Thanks for this - it has been very helpful. I am starting to understand how these R models are set up. Out of interest, does your RS have air-ride? If so, does it make a significant difference? We mainly use cabovers in the region that I am in due to length restrictions. You would shatter your spine in a cabover that didn't have good cab suspension. I am curious whether it is as noticeable in a 700 series R model given the driver sits so far from the axles. Thanks again
  25. Mr Black
    I am looking to restore a R700 or, if I can't find a R700, to convert a R600 to a R700. I have already asked a question about doing this on the forum but now have further queries about cab heights. One thing I have noticed about R Models in Australia (which is where I live) is that some have their cabs mounted very low and others are sitting up much higher (more like a Superliner). For this project I want the cab to sit up higher like a Superliner. I will be using a Western hood with the lowered guards so I think I could sit the cab and hood up to about 4 inches higher than standard without making the space between the tyres and the guards look too extreme. While I am looking for a suitable R600/700 I want to source the parts I need to raise the cab height. So, with all that in mind, my questions are: What is the best way to get the additional cab height? Should I be sourcing Superliner cab mounts? If I want air ride, is it still ok to use standard Superliner mounts for the front of the cab or do I need different front cab mounts for the air-ride also? I would think the air-ride only affects the rear cab mounts but I am new to Mack so I could be wrong.Any help would be appreciated.

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