mattb73lt

Welcome Aboard!!! Love that B dump. Very clean fleet. Do you work the B?

The B-61 donor for my truck was the key. The transmission mounts, front cross member, radiator, shutters and many miscellaneous small parts were all there. Using Mack components made it all so easy. Maintenance is also easy. The bonus for me was taking apart the donor and finding a power steering box in it, as i bought it originally for the transmission, which I never used. Axles and springs were not a huge concern as I wasn't planning on hauling big weights, antique cars mostly, on a roll back body. The ride is good with my set up. Been all the way out to Colorado and all over the Northeast with it. My current setup is a ENDT-675, TRTL-720 and a CRD-117 (4.62) final drive. Gives me 1600 RPM @ 65 MPH and 80 plus against the governor.

It might have been the 77 series, it was a while ago I did the swap. Regardless, it was the "baby duplex", not the larger series 72 that I put in later. There is an adapter plate used by Mack to put the smaller transmissions on the larger engines, making up the difference in bell housings. The important thing is do your research and find the components that will make it do what you want. An auto math book will be invaluable finding the right ratios for gearing using the right equations. The parts are out there to put almost anything in it to make it work for you and have a cool head turner.

Two series of transmissions, 67 was the smaller gas jobs and the 72 series larger diesels. My original transmission was a TRD-67, direct duplex. A 0 added to the number,as in TRD-670, would be an overdrive and give you a .78 final drive out to the rear. Some transmissions are set up with an overdrive in each box, as in a TRT-720, which would give you a .68 final drive to the rear. There's a link here, I believe, that will take you to a site to break the numbers down and give you a ratio for each gear or someone will put it up. I can't recall where it is.

I swapped out the drive line in my B-42P , EN-402,Duplex and rear diff with all Mack components. It was a very easy swap as the frame was predrilled for either gas or diesel mounts. Everything was bolt in. I bought the front half of a B-61SX to get all the bits and pieces needed and found a good rebuilt END-673, Double over Tri-plex and a CRD-117 Differential with 4.64 ratio.. Ran the 673 for over 10 years until it ate an exhaust valve seat. Then upgraded to a 237, totally different truck with that engine. If you have the Cummins that will save you, there will be a lot of fabricating though. You'll probably need to change out the differential as it will still be the original ratio. A double reduction diff will fit in a single reduction rear end. I think my original rear axle is a RAS-508 and it took the double reduction R-model diff without issue. Just some thoughts, good luck!!!

Don't forget the B-81 in Die Hard #3

Kansas, that's Airplane!! "Surely, you must be kidding?" "I'm not and don't call me Shirley"

I saw an article somewhere highlighting French B Models showing the same headlight panels, lowered headlights and lacking parking lamps. European manufactured B's?. Article could have been in the Wheels of Time or Double Clutch.

41chevy, oops, I feel like I hijacked your thread. Thanks guys it's great seeing those pictures

Angelo, I will definitely take you up on that ride when I get home. Flown through there dozens of times with the military and state but have never have seen it from the water. I used to love showing people how close we are to the city from CT. At 1500-2000 ft, just South of Middletown, you used to see the Towers easily on a clear day. Or, just East of Hartford at 5000 ft you could see both the Boston and NYC skylines.

MADDOG93, thanks for that. I was a little in awe during those days and wasn't really looking at the boat names. Those new ones are truly impressive, to say the least. Such a day, it altered my life significantly and it's never been the same since. Writing this from Afghanistan, pulling my third tour. I love NYC and make several trips a year there with my wife. Took my nieces and nephews to Ground Zero after I got home from my first tour in 2004.

I saw her in action that week after 9/11. Was flying in and out of Battery Park for seven days immediately after the attacks for the CT State Police, hauling Troopers and Cadaver dogs in and out of the city in Trooper One to assist NYPD. Had some down time and walked South in the Park and came upon Firefighter moored there in a marina, pumping away. Some sight, pumping right out of the Hudson, dozens of lines running off her supplying water to the scene that was still burning pretty heavily. I heard she was retired the week before 9/11 and was brought out of her retirement to assist, not sure if that's accurate though. Glad she's being preserved. Lot's of history in that fire boat.

There was a thread a few weeks back regarding Mack Military trucks. This belongs to some Australian troops stationed with us in Afghanistan currently. They have a whole series of these on the same basic 6X6 chassis, this recovery/contact one, fuel tanker, flat bed, troop carrier, and dump truck that I've seen so far. I haven't had a chance to ask someone what the set up is. Lots of neat features from what I can see, air conditioned up-armored cabs. The troops we work with are great to be around and we work very well with them.

That takes some skill. The lift helo looks like a AS-350 and would be pretty maxed out lift wise, as what's left of the 500 would be about 1800#'s. Depending on the altitude, not a lot of margin. Plus the pendulum effect of the long line makes setting down on the trailer a real chore. The Columbia BV-107 doing the ground towing of the oil rig is a famous photo. The BV-107(CH-46) was designed for the Navy and one of it's tasks was towing mine sweeping gear in the same manner. The torque required to tow that 200 ton sled must be pretty significant. What a ride the would be if the cable parted doing that!!! I've lifted a lot of odd-ball and standard loads for the US Army driving a CH-47F and put them in all kinds of places. Powerful aircraft capable of slinging up to 26,000#'s externally. A real handful when close to it's 50,000# MGW

It was a late 60's R model tandem, wedge brakes and about a 9:1 ratio out of a USAF fuel truck. Not very desirable, unless you needed about a 40 MPH truck. And they are long gone now, sorry.

There are differences in CT offices from site to site, that's why I would suggest visiting the site and talking to the Inspector before hand. Some sites have a full garage and some have only an outside lot. When I registered my B42, the inspector only ckecked all the lights, tires, vin, wipers, as if it was an antique car and not a commercial truck. With regard to towed loads and Early American plates, if you own it and it's registered to you, you should be fine. Your insurance carrier would be the one to place any restrictions on towed loads. Tell the insurance agent your intentions, some carriers have restrictions on towed loads and some have no restrictions. I also placard my truck on both sides with "Not For Hire" signs signifying no commercial use. Never had any issues running interstate over the years. One funny story though, in 2005 I was running out to The Rocky Mountain National Park with a Model T on the back and ran across an open scale house near my destination. Pulled in, the place was empty, just a few cruisers no trucks. I rolled onto the scales and stopped. I got out my paperwork and was wondering what this was going to cost. Now the scalehouse had mirrored windows so I can't see anyone inside or out. I'm sitting and sitting and no one comes out, so after a few minutes I talk into this intercom next to me and ask what they needed. A voice comes back and says "Nothing, we're just admiring your truck and car. Have a nice day." That was the only issue I've ever had.

Regarding your registration, Early American plates can be put on from CTDMV. You'll need to have it insured first then you'll need a 30 day Temp. A commercial temp is all that's available as a passenger won't work. The vehicle will need a full inspection at a DMV office. Make sure you explain it's going to be registered as an antique and will not be used for commercial purposes. This precludes all the neccessary equipment (fire extiguisher, flares, triangles). I would have it equipped as if it is commercial though, just in case. For ownership documentation, a Bill of Sale will suffice as it is older than ten years. An original title, though, is always best. Make sure you can find the VIN on the right frame rail, aft of the rear spring perch and clean it so it can be easily read. I would definately go through the truck prior to getting the Temp ( lights, leaks-air& oil, tires, rot, horns-elec. &air, brakes). When you think you're ready for inspection then get the temp and go for the inspection. If it does fail for some reason, you'll have more time to fix it before the temp runs out and you'll have to get another. Also Early American tags do not require a CDL in CT, if you don't have one. Ask your insurance carrier if they require it, though. If you have patience, you can also call the DMV info line with all your questions. You could also seek out one of the DMV Inspectors at the site where you'll get it inspected, to see what exactly you'll need and what they'll look for in the inspection for the Early Tags. They can actually be helpful, at times. Good Luck

Yeah, that's what I had in mind. Much longer wheelbase,though, due to the body length. I was going to demount the body, blast,prime and trim/repair the donor frame. Repair the B-73 frame, as it had tandems installed at one time, then mate the whole thing together as you did and remount the body to complete it.

About six feet of overlap. I was planning to bring the Ford frame as far up to the cab as possible. Trimming as neccessary to avoid interferance and remounting issues with fuel tanks. Geometry is a concern to keep it as square as possible.

I was looking for some imput on how to best do a frame stretch. I have a fairly short wheel base 1960 B-73LT(L cab) and am going to stretch it into a car carrier for my antique cars. What I have for a body is a late 70's Jerr Dan roll back that was mounted to a Ford truck. I saved everything from the Ford from the cab back and it's all still mounted to the frame. The Mack frame is about an inch shallower than the Ford frame and the outside measurements are about 1/4" less than the inside measurements on Ford frame. This would allow the two frames to slide together and by placing two 1/8" shims down the length of the joined areas, take up the difference. I was thinking about doing the stretch in this manner, then using body bound bolts, bolt the whole thing together using the cross member patterns and a logical bolt pattern in-between for maximum strength. The reasons for method were to simplify and speed up the mounting of the body, since it's already mounted to the frame and to create a double frame for more strength due to the increased wheelbase. The dimensions of the two frames are so close to allow this. Once alligned,squared and joined, I would use all Mack components for the drive line. In theory, it would seem the best way to proceed, but I'm also thinking safety and not creating something dangerous. Also, if I ever sold it, it would be very easy to separate and return to it's original configuration if so desired by the new owner, leaving the frame very unmolested. Looking for some thoughts and possible alternate methods? Thanks, Matt

I recall when I added the CRD-117 that there were four "pads" on the bearing caps that married up into the rear of the housing that seemed pretty significant. I've hauled some pretty good loads with the truck and never seen any signs of stress or flex on the RAS housing. It is a hobby truck and I don't max it out or use it like a work truck. I've seen a few of those torque arm rears and they are VERY heavily built. I was thinking that you might find something to fit that rear that was more modern and provide a better ratio for the highway, while retaining the original set-up.

What kind of rear arrangement do you have? You should be able to replace the carrier with one from an R-model. I was able to upgrade my stock RAS axle in my B-42 with a CRD-117 in 4.62 ratio. Many more efficient ratios are available in that carrier. I was told that a single reduction axle would not accept a double reduction carrier, but there were no issues at all. It's been that set up for years and thousands of miles. Ahead of that I have a TRTL-720 and a 237. I can cruise all day at 65 MPH, turning around 16-1700. Top end is around 80 MPH @ 2150 RPM.

IT was a 1963 B-42P, I made it a "B-43P" but it really is a B-61 due to all the swapping.

I did this swap about 13 years ago with a 1963 B-43P. Found a doner, 1965 B-61SX. It was very easy as the frame was predrilled to accept both gas and diesel mounts. Stripped out a EN-402 and a TR-67 Duplex along with the mounts and bolted in a END-673 and a TRTL-720. It was also a single axle, single reduction rear and swapped in a double reduction third member from a R model for better highway speed (cruises at 1700 RPM at 70 MPH). I recently upgraded the engine to a ENDT-675(237 HP) after the 673 failed after all that time without issue. It was great to have the doner for all the bits and pieces you'll need to do the swap right. The B-42 I started with was a very low mileage local truck (69K mileage) and made all the difference. The 20 speed may give you some issues as to allignment if it's single or double disc clutch and it will need a third support on the tail end due to weight.

I converted a B-42 to diesel power and used the original RAS 508 axle. I replaced the original CRS 84 carrier with a CRD 117 (4.64 ratio) out of an R model. I was worried about going from from a single reduction carrier to a double carrier with the single reduction axle. I had no issues at all with installation or operation. The CRD 117 will probably be easier (more plentiful) then the B model and give you more ratio options. Plus parts will be easier. Matt