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Thanks for posting this First look for me!👍 Our DOT people would likely put the truck out of service for having that obstruction on the glass That's how dense they are here!

There should be a pointer in the engine housing The marks Valve set and TDC on the flywheel

Even thou I am Mack Guy If owned a truck I would go Fuller 18 for the very reason stated above PARTS! You can repair /rebuild a fuller for 1/2 the price of the Mack trans! The only draw back is you need to find a Mack bell housing because of the mounts and the clutch shaft arrangements ! The 12 speed is the best dump trans as stated not viable for the reasons stated! Just me!

Strange But Nice! Your getting the boost of a stock 427 a little under a 460 37 - 40 ! Good job! You can bump a thousand for a bit and not hurt anything as long as the boost doesn't start falling off to much !

I never saw one of these either ! never new it existed That said The new online crap wiring diagrams are Almost non existent for the older stuff and even if its there its a Dogs breakfast to look at! Volvo Trashers have totally dropped the ball when it comes to most of this stuff!

Quite honestly Both our countries have the resources to make ALMOST Everything we need right here IN House ! Do we have the fortitude to do it and pay the extra? Duno ! Never been tried we have been to busy subsidizing china! question is ! Are we willing to pay more to have our own people do the things we need!? If we haven't spoiled there asses so bad with all the hand outs!I Will they Do it ? Some of Us will ! I for one believe in helping out (when need) but when people Are to lazy, too spoiled to get out there and get there hands dirty then.............! Fill in the blanks!

Sure ! This all depends on what beer you were drinking last nite as to the recipe you use! May be a fine line there me thinks! 😂

nope can't ad water cant piss in the can either! Same thing applies derate! Good thing that old trucks were built to last we will still be able to move some stuff around! They will be able to deliver the add blue to get the new stuff running again!🤣

you need to be checking the EGR differential pressure sensor on the intake manifold! If it or the tubes to it are plugged the EGR valve will be commanded right open by the ECU! thus polluting the system with soot! Just a whole can of worms! no power VGT STICKING plugged EGR cooler Its a BIG Viscous circle! you need to really start at the source of the problem there or you'll be back at it in a week! blocking the EGR with send the truck into DErate! Just saying!

95 should bolt in long as its from a similar truck ! You may need to swap water pump fpr the fan to fit! and some of the external stuff the base is the same thou! !

AH !

I have a question? Did you blow out the lines leading to the fuel pump before you did the bucket test ! Don't forget this is a 20 year old + truck with 20 year lines on it! ( I am still fixating on the low fuel pressure) under load what kind of boost did it make get 20 psi boost? 24-27 would be more in line in the real world! The book spec is always 24 but in reality boost is usually higher! Just askin!

Myself I am quite surprised this 98 truck was still built with a mechanical fuel pump! i was under the impression that only carried on from 3 years past 93 introduction of VMAC!

Agreed! I think its a transplant! the mech pump was only offered a few years after Vmac came out I beleive! could be wrong however!I know they offered it a bit longer in a 350 HP!

that is a manual pump and that drainback system is what was normally used on VMAC pumps how ever doesnt mean it can't be used on the manual pump! The T style is what I would think should have been on there!

Its kind of pointing at that! how ever I never seen these fail ,the old style T type valve would break a spring from time to time not sure on that there I cant see the whole valve in the pic! the orfice style was used mainly on the VMAC style pump!

So I have a suggestion for you Before you go any farther ! Those numbers Aren't that bad seen alot worse if that engine is maintaining 25 psi plus under load the charge pressure is OK! REmove the 3/8 plastic line that goes to the smoke limiter at the back of the pump at the top suck on the the tube if it won't hold a vacuam the diaphram in that device is fubar you need to go there ! Remove the four screws you'll likely find your problem! Just sayin! So I re read the other posts and eleven under load is to low for sure your heading the right way fuel transfer pump or a leak prior to it! also check your tank vent! The above check is worth doing if you have good fuel pressure !

Great news Bro ya got it going ! So take the lid off that 15/16 wrench I believe get a 1/4 3 jnch long close nipple and a 90 degree elbow a 0-100 gauge screw it in to that and see what you got! That plug is usually real tight! 1/4 inch extention will usually get it out! I think now the parts canon is in order tri replacing the drain back valve first regardless of the pressure the pump makes it could be failing and its cheap! If it still has issues the fuel transfer pump is likley fubar they have a bit of a track record for being weak! And yup come and hang out we do our best to help everyone not one of us knows everything how ever as a group we can usually get people going ! everyone has different experiences to share that sometimes can get people fixed up!!

yup

dont over do it!

should at least start with 50 psi as log as you crack at least two lines at the head and bleed as described!

There is a fuel galley plug just above where the blow by can bolts it can be accessed by removing the lid! 3 inch 1/4 pipe close nipple and an elbow! to screw a gauge into!

Nope good quality 3/4 wrench! back em out one turn give em a tug start pumping till fuel dribles snug em then crank! Should fire on thous two cyls till it gets good fuel pressure if its there!

What you need to do is check that you are achieving the min 60 psi to get it to even fire! does the primer pump get hard when you pump it? Crack number one fuel line pump the primer till most of the visible air is gone crack the number 1 and six fuel lines at the head one fuel turn and pull on the lines pump the primer till you get fuel slobbering from the lines and snug them! and try to start with someone pumping on the primer! by this point the primer should feel hard If not I would suspect that drain back valve your thinking abought or the fuel pump onyx"s pic there!

So go to the primary fuel filter at the front of the cab remove the line coming from the tank blow it thru make sure its clear ! Remove the elbow the line was connected to and check for debris ! If its clear !check all the lines heading forward I have see stuff clogging the cooling plate as well from deteriorating lines !The fuel transfer pump could be failing is your oil level higher than Normal??? if so change the pump and do an oil change! just some stuff to look for! Just as an after thought make sure the tank vent is clear to ! The simplest of things can cause so many headaches!