fjh
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Everything posted by fjh
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Not the same! but a similar instance , We once had a fellow that was doing head gaskets on an engine ! Went to to do the valve set on the engine and an it came up semi hard on cyl 3 after some investigation with a screw driver down the injector hole found he had left a rag on the piston ! Just a tad embarrassing ! At the time we had a very aggressive boss that tried to push people on time quoted job you know! PUSH PUSH PUSH! We also had a guy leave the little plastic cork in the turbo oil feed on a 3406 980 loader honest mistake as two different guys were doing the job ! But Shit happens ! took out two turbos before finding the plug! 🥵
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what he said ! we've had air driers stick open! run it and feel for air At the drier ! Unloaders could also be stuck!
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Bro in your case You may have injector/ injector cup issues ! yet another thing that can cause a fuel hard start issue a lot less evident on The earlier engines, but can happen! usually presents it self after working hard for several hours! you shut off to fuel up / have lunch! then have to prime it to start!
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2014 Pinnacle Service DEF Light/5mph derate
fjh replied to Localhauler's topic in Engine and Transmission
If you have an Mdrive the speed sensor trick will likley not work as the trany has a brain as well needs to see speed to shift! The manual trans you have control of this ! the vecu doesn't know the truck is moving so it won't de rate you! sensor is on the tail end of the trans in front of the first u joint yoke! Scr derate is more viscous than dpf derate Dangerous in my opinion ! How ever someone dreamed up the the rule ! guess we have to live with it! You have a perfectly driveable truck that has to crawl along a free way at 5 mph is a tad ridiculous! a more reasonable 45mph seem more in line! -
You need to check your liner protrusion spec is 19 to 28 thou I beleive ! However my experience tells me that anything below 22 is too low and in my opinion Borderline! anything above 24 to 28 is good and your allowed 2 thou between cyls under the same head ! Very important on any E7 But specially on a 400 plus HP engine just saying ! I have reluctantly used them it a chip on the top and had decent luck How ever Its your call! Check the protrusion this is most important! Just sayin
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Yup like pro says you really got to be carefull buying a used engine for this stuff! I suggest , stick to a same year same model search , All things are not created equal from year to year on these as the EPA changes the rules every two days it seems! so the manufactures are forced to tweak this that and the other thing to be compliant! Soft wear is constantly changing!
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😍 Yup! New you would find it! Yup the stat thing is important for sure I watched this happen many times even stats would Shock the system enough to shake the upper rad hose when they opened! Wicked Surge!
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You will be bending lines! the segment spacing is diffrent on Ambac! As much As I like Ambac my self ! Robert bosch is easier to find parts for if an issue occurs !
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This idea works best on these by pulling the the stat housing right off fill the coolant to the top of the stat housing then run the engine you can then better identify front head or back head! Also I believe there was a TSB on this ! a thermostat housing change up of some sort Mackpro may remember! It was about some markings or dots on housings identifying a changeup for coolant push they did!
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Guess its doable the fuel lines will have to be altered to use them! the injectors will likly work !
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2005 Mack Cv713 Maxitorque 10 multispeed reverse.
fjh replied to 318Hauling's topic in Engine and Transmission
This trans is a cousin to the 18sp these have range shift issues from time to time usually range syncro pack worn however check the yoke bolt for tightness! if its loose can cause shifting issues! -
2008 chu613 mp8 845c crank broke not once but
fjh replied to Truecountry's topic in Engine and Transmission
So here's something to think about ! WAS THE CLUTCH ADJUSTED properly on this second failure ? Lack of free pedal can take out the thrust bearing and cause a whole dogs breakfast of issues ! including what you have. I've Seen it happen! Just sayin! -
You want to be careful trying to pull too much from an E6 it can break the block at number 5 main bearing! there in lies why they went to the E7 block with buttress screws! A candle that burns twice as bright lasts half as long! Just sayin!
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Ya need to check for power at the head it may not be an electrical issue
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Pulled P/S pump to check gears and found chipped tooth that matched some of the fragments in pan This comment prompted my response! Vmac3 has posted good info could also be a cracked injector tip or injector not uncommon either!
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Which engine would be compatible with a 2006 CHN613
fjh replied to Dannielle's topic in Engine and Transmission
GOOD Point! -
Does it get power to the heads when operated?
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If this is an mp8 I would seriously check into the rear idler gear on this ! These have a track record for the idler gear coming loose! The cam will be the least of your problems if that is the case just sayin
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Going to be interesting to see just how much boost this engine will put out! Also how much frame alteration thatd going to have to be done to jam that in the vehicle!
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Also make Sure the air filter is clean Check the simple stuff first turbos arn't cheap these days! and you can open up a can of worms changing one with broken studs 7th injector bolts etc.!
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I believe that pump is the splined drive similar to the compressor drive ! except it is doweled and the pump can only go on one way! one spline is cut away to allow for the dowel to time the pump! ( NOTE if you haven't done this already !) While the pump is off Replace that coolant hose compressor to the water pump It is a PIA to do after the pump is on! Just sayin!
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Hard to tell ! But if you look close you will see two tiny bumps on the block casting at the outer edge for the robby bosch morph sequence it was defiantly on their minds at that point ! The idea was there even if the holes weren't drilled yet they were gearing up for it! as the the time came close to the change up they drilled the holes for the robby and corked them with the allen screws! till the morph came about! Even as far back as the 285 and 315 the robby was sometimes used! On The very odd occasion the robby was configured as a Maxidine pump !
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The blocks that had am ambac had the holes blanked off with Allen screws repaired lots of theses had to remove the pump and reseal the screws pia but that is what happens when you’re morphing to a different fuel system! Mack seemed to do a lot of this back in the day!
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The one at the front behind the blo by can is the quickest 3 inch i1/4 pipe-nipple and an elbow adapted to what ever gauge you have ! you need to take the top off the bloby can to install the nipple!
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If you have a Mack 18 speed in plug the switch on on the cylinder on the back torque limit switch may have failed and caused a de rate
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