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nope can't ad water cant piss in the can either! Same thing applies derate! Good thing that old trucks were built to last we will still be able to move some stuff around! They will be able to deliver the add blue to get the new stuff running again!🤣

you need to be checking the EGR differential pressure sensor on the intake manifold! If it or the tubes to it are plugged the EGR valve will be commanded right open by the ECU! thus polluting the system with soot! Just a whole can of worms! no power VGT STICKING plugged EGR cooler Its a BIG Viscous circle! you need to really start at the source of the problem there or you'll be back at it in a week! blocking the EGR with send the truck into DErate! Just saying!

95 should bolt in long as its from a similar truck ! You may need to swap water pump fpr the fan to fit! and some of the external stuff the base is the same thou! !

AH !

I have a question? Did you blow out the lines leading to the fuel pump before you did the bucket test ! Don't forget this is a 20 year old + truck with 20 year lines on it! ( I am still fixating on the low fuel pressure) under load what kind of boost did it make get 20 psi boost? 24-27 would be more in line in the real world! The book spec is always 24 but in reality boost is usually higher! Just askin!

Myself I am quite surprised this 98 truck was still built with a mechanical fuel pump! i was under the impression that only carried on from 3 years past 93 introduction of VMAC!

Agreed! I think its a transplant! the mech pump was only offered a few years after Vmac came out I beleive! could be wrong however!I know they offered it a bit longer in a 350 HP!

that is a manual pump and that drainback system is what was normally used on VMAC pumps how ever doesnt mean it can't be used on the manual pump! The T style is what I would think should have been on there!

Its kind of pointing at that! how ever I never seen these fail ,the old style T type valve would break a spring from time to time not sure on that there I cant see the whole valve in the pic! the orfice style was used mainly on the VMAC style pump!

So I have a suggestion for you Before you go any farther ! Those numbers Aren't that bad seen alot worse if that engine is maintaining 25 psi plus under load the charge pressure is OK! REmove the 3/8 plastic line that goes to the smoke limiter at the back of the pump at the top suck on the the tube if it won't hold a vacuam the diaphram in that device is fubar you need to go there ! Remove the four screws you'll likely find your problem! Just sayin! So I re read the other posts and eleven under load is to low for sure your heading the right way fuel transfer pump or a leak prior to it! also check your tank vent! The above check is worth doing if you have good fuel pressure !

Great news Bro ya got it going ! So take the lid off that 15/16 wrench I believe get a 1/4 3 jnch long close nipple and a 90 degree elbow a 0-100 gauge screw it in to that and see what you got! That plug is usually real tight! 1/4 inch extention will usually get it out! I think now the parts canon is in order tri replacing the drain back valve first regardless of the pressure the pump makes it could be failing and its cheap! If it still has issues the fuel transfer pump is likley fubar they have a bit of a track record for being weak! And yup come and hang out we do our best to help everyone not one of us knows everything how ever as a group we can usually get people going ! everyone has different experiences to share that sometimes can get people fixed up!!

yup

dont over do it!

should at least start with 50 psi as log as you crack at least two lines at the head and bleed as described!

There is a fuel galley plug just above where the blow by can bolts it can be accessed by removing the lid! 3 inch 1/4 pipe close nipple and an elbow! to screw a gauge into!

Nope good quality 3/4 wrench! back em out one turn give em a tug start pumping till fuel dribles snug em then crank! Should fire on thous two cyls till it gets good fuel pressure if its there!

What you need to do is check that you are achieving the min 60 psi to get it to even fire! does the primer pump get hard when you pump it? Crack number one fuel line pump the primer till most of the visible air is gone crack the number 1 and six fuel lines at the head one fuel turn and pull on the lines pump the primer till you get fuel slobbering from the lines and snug them! and try to start with someone pumping on the primer! by this point the primer should feel hard If not I would suspect that drain back valve your thinking abought or the fuel pump onyx"s pic there!

So go to the primary fuel filter at the front of the cab remove the line coming from the tank blow it thru make sure its clear ! Remove the elbow the line was connected to and check for debris ! If its clear !check all the lines heading forward I have see stuff clogging the cooling plate as well from deteriorating lines !The fuel transfer pump could be failing is your oil level higher than Normal??? if so change the pump and do an oil change! just some stuff to look for! Just as an after thought make sure the tank vent is clear to ! The simplest of things can cause so many headaches!

Another cheap look at is the tank vent filter make sure its not plugged! And Vmac made the right call here check the cheap and easy stuff first ! Its very easy to make a bad call/ jump to conclusion when you see things happen three or four times in a row in short succession! another semi common issue with these is the fuel filter pedestal and the dollarstore hand primer supplied with the engine! just saying!

Thanx however ! I will correct you Onyx! I am only a messenger on these new engines I do NOT Work on them or (Try not to)! I Am how ever around them All day long and pick up on (MOST )of the fixes going on in our shop ! To be an expert on these you have to work on them trouble shoot them on a daily basis !I just pass on what I have been seeing and how we are dealing with this rubbish! Also Roadpower observe This condition may worsen after hard pulls just putting around town with no load it may lessen in severity !this will confirm or solidify the diagnostic ! Just sayin

the complaint you have sounds like injector cup issues These tend to have issues with injectors leaking compression into the fuel gallery!

The S does stand for Single that is for sure the 180 is the issue Isn't no listing for that diff anywhere in the old manuals I have! crs 116 117 150 155 bla bla bla no 180! it may be a trick time waster question From these retards that write these USELESS exam's that have nothing to do with a persons repair knowledge or ability!

yup we just did one of these! get the sensor! make sure your inlet boot is sealing on the hood just something to try for the other code

in my mind a complete engine harness is in order as well as replacing the the spinner you may end up in the same spot a month from now if you don't ! the oil as mentioned can come from all of the above sources ! if the spinner is restricted this adds to the issue! even if the base pressure is not showing up a code it may be just on the edge you just don't know! Just my opinion

just askin this question cause this question was brought up on a Mack exam ! I beleive it to be a hoax time waster question! If it was then it did its job cause we could not find any such animal!