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the dam timing tool bolts somewhere on the back with the rear cover piece removed unfortunately you can be one tooth out one way or the other with the dam thing at our shop we had to fight this a have dozen times! you have to check it with the computer after you have the engine running to confirm if it is synced! and ITS SO EASY TO SEE back there! 😡

Unfortunately there is a specific tool to achieve this! It is hoeky as hell and a crap shoot to use ! we normaly make our own marks when removing the cam gear for ease of assembly! Mac pro Or Joey may have some decent advice on this! This here is one job you just don't want to be winging it! The only thing I can do is sit back and watch and wish you luck I am a sidewalk superintendent when it comes to red engines! ! They MAY be able to talk you guys thru it! 😡

So pay attention!😁 The amber light usually on the right side of the steering wheel if its burned out replace it this will tell you if you got an active code may be causeing the shut down!Red light on means 1 of several things ,low oil preasure, high water temp; low water in the revivor, these all Can trigger shut down in 1 minute after start! We need info to try and help the more of the questions you answer the closer and quicker we can help you to repair if we can! If the engine is sputtering when it starts it my be fuel psi related ! If its a clean start its likly a electrically driven fix! post what you find we will try to help! assuming this is not a mechanical fuel pump

Is the check engine light operating? key on amber light comes on goes off? red shutdown light off? Also turn the key yo the on possition does the heater fan operate? If not check the accessory relay under the ashtray!

If the engine is equipped with dynatard engine brake this is normal! Long as you followed the direction correctly and you had tight valves on the opposite cyl you were setting on that stroke AND you were on the valve set pointer! all is good!

ya Nope they screwed us over on that front!

YUP! what he SAID!😁 weld it!

Yup bro if you want help give us info ! We are not mind readers! We are sort of truck magicians thou ! Were here to help if we can!😅

agree with joe Check the cam sensor Replace it ! But It really sounds like cups thou! Cam sensor from what we have seen here will start up clean no stumble ! cups will kind of sputter and stumble to a start! listen to it carefully ! Its possibly speaking to you! 😅

So in this case he is having the head checked and possibly planed cracks in theory should show up at the machine shop cups may not! You installed New cylinder head it had cracks that is scary !That I would expect with a reman head not new nothing surprises me with reman stuff ! The egr delete is a wild card here ,seen a few of these most do ok as long as the ecm has been tweaked properly! We have seen lots of ISX heads turned into shower sprayers with out a proper tune! The heat just cooks them!

never seen cavitated liners on these either HOW ever! shit happens! So point being here suspect and rule out everything because you still may have a cup or cracked head issue ! Just sayin!

I still have a concern here that we are over looking the original post combustion in coolant! I would scrutinize these liners for cracks and pin holes as well did you have an oil sample done ? As Joe mentioned post sum picts of the scuffed liners These Rarely fail head gaskets from what we have seen at our shop . not saying it can't happen ............ Real heavy scuffing may be caused by a pin hole or crack !

That there is a real shitty misshape and could happen to anyone! Its kind like stopping the truck and forgetting to pull the spring brake knob! I always park in neutral habit wise How ever! twelve speed I tri to park it at least in the direction the truck is going to travel the next morning hi or low in case the air shift sticks for some reason ( been burned ) at least it can get to the shop that way! Bummer man! sad for you this here is the best dump trans going! in my mind! that said there should be lots of fuller 18 speeds out there for Mack just throwing that out there you got to stretch the drive shaft anyway!

So that could would likey be rings how ever have you done all six are they the same? Did you listen at the exhaust stack? these have a small issue from time to time of a piece falling out of a valve! some leak by would be expected on a hi miler engine! .Seems like the direction here has changed a bit? Are you still looking for air / combustion in the coolant? this symptom useuly reveals itself after or while pulling symptoms of hard starting sometimes accompany it As the cup moves up from its seat or gets cracked ! Being deleted there is a ( higher ) possibility of a cracked head ! just sayin!

By chance did you check the EGR cooler on this bro? Just another straw to grasp!

That should work ! They will have to build their own mounts is all !

Yup still 3 cylinders with screw up potential ! Real smart!

Sorry bro you should have started a new thread on This! remove the powersteering pump on the front of the engine there is a big nut to remove it slides out the back!

Haha ! Nope !🤪 Should have noticed Dave wild hasn't been here for quite some time! Funny how these pop up to the top from time to time ! Oh well it may get someone out of a jam some day! 😁

Rob it drives a fiber splined cup I don't think there will be an issue welding it totally! the hard surface wouldn't be an issue in my opinion! If you need to run and your doing it your self just getter done! No warranty to worry about here! 😄

And so you answer is no! To different concepts one debatably better than the other! If these guys had got rid of the dollar store plunger injection system and installed a proper hpcr system! these would be almost bullet proof engines ! They cheaped out yet again!

Correct the T leafs hitting the buckets indicate the pads are fubar! also there are steel spacer shims either side of the spring that are sometimes omitted on the 38 suspension they NEED TO BE there! If you step up to the 44 suspension these are always required ! If your walking out 3 inches the trunnion is defiantly suspect If its a grease trunnion You got a huge project on your hands! If its all rubber your looking at 8-12 hrs of toil to do everything! If your changing the chair recommend doing this setup Like Joey recommends NEVERSEASE IS Your friend lots of it! Gaumer Industries - Gaumer Trunnion Stands for Mack Camelback Applications These are offered by several supplyers ! I also recommend converting to all rubber if your going this route if your dump application just because its and easy fix next time ! most guys forget to jack up the truck when they grease! for proper! most guys don't know how to care for the greased version Just sayin

Joe smart on your part! Agreed these people change their minds like you and I change socks as far as specs and instructions go ! Its like mechanical Covid An on going ever changing Volvo osis Disease!😡 Another very large experiment with the public ! They may find a cure one day however .................. they may have to hire pfryzer to fix it for them!

Just a word on these ! when introduced these were marketed as Stealth brake it only happened for several years I believe! theses played havoc on turbo shaft seals creating real heavy Bloby on application on long steep grades If you are planning on running this set up and have a lot of long steep grades you may want to think twice on it ! also when these were installed there was a valve spring up date done I don't remember the particulars on it I only did one of these updates as they dropped the concept after a year or two! Just sayin!

Pay ATTENTION TO JOES NEXT POST! 35 on the set! the set is a way off either your not measuring right or it was a real bad set to start with Or you have another possible cam issue! ! these are (rarely )that far out most of the time 2 or three thou one way or the other after 2-3 years! You should be seeing 16 thou +/- 1 or 2 on intake 24 + / - 1 or 2 ! I'll let Joey write the novel !