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Good man ,Remember , if it dont run a good as it did before you may have to have the turbo recalibrated by the dealer ,Also talk nice to that guy that your buying the parts from and he may be able to pull some strings in the service dept to help ya along with that part of it!It takes 5 to ten minutes to do and the engine needs to be warmed up to at least 160 deg! The puter needs to measure the stroke of the new turbo to be able to adjust the vanes to the right angle to run correctly.

NO Bro you need to buy the right turbo ,the boost sensor idea was aimed at the wastgated turbo,You thru me a curve ball with the turbo bolting to the manifold thing, the vgt turbo is a total diffrent ballgame It needs the acuator control signals and wheel speed sensory in puts to know where to position the vains or the puter will pull in the leash Just the way it is. You cant fight city hall.pop the 3000 or 5000 on the turbo while your at it there is an update for the exhast studs and gaskets that just may work this time replace the exhast gaskets and fuel lines and start over When you replace the turbo it needs to get calibrated as well!There are places rebuilding these turbos now as well for a fair dollar less Than the dealers sell mack ones. The only way to make what your tring to do work is to rip all the rubbish of the engine convert it to the older style engine wireing and computer the whole nine yards! Don't waste money on the impossible!

I would love to see a picture of this turbo!The mounting flange is a tad diffrent on vgt style turbo! Doubt it would even fit.If you have a waste gated turbo and you have replaced it with a standard turbo the result is the same if the engine sees any more than 33 psi boost it will derate!In this case you (MAY) be able to remove the sensor from the manifold and plug the hole and install the boost sensor in a plastic bag on the fire wall so the puter never sees the boost! down side is your boost gauge wont work!Put in a real gauge

I beleive this button enbles you to override a low oil or high temp auto shut down to get the truck off the road.

75/09 for the diffs synth OK the tran 50 w synth no problem with either change over.

this update has already been installed loses more oil at higher speed about three gallons if you get over 65mph Jake or power leash!If jake remove valve covers and check to see if the plugs havent come out of the rocker shafts If leash I would lean towards the turbo Again.Turbos can build preasure on the exhast side causing exsess blow by puting preasure in the base and blowing the oil out where ever it can. Sorry I put the pics in the wrong post. Boost /turbo test tool! We use this tool to check for problems like yours it requires you remove the exhast the inlet pipes and the turbo drain tube to check for the problem you are haveing and apply 30-40 psi air to it!If the turbo passes air thru the turbo drain there inlies your problem if you hear air coming up from the base still you have other problems ie: rings or valve guides! Just something else to think on! Please post your Fixes for others to see! It makes the fourm more useful and It benefits everyone! Fred :\Documents and Settings\Laura\My Documents\My Pictures\turbo

i have 2003 mack 427 dump truck i have spent about 8000 dollars try to find why oil is coming from my blow by tube i know sounds easy turbo replaced twice new air compressor new rings had all the upadates could there be somthing with this motor different. i am really out of options. help How much oil! ? Do you have the valve cover breather kit installed? Below is the tool we use to check turbos and boost leaks.

Check your pms!

Yes 3/8 line You are checking the diphram for leaks if it has a hole in it, it will not push the fuel stop out of the way when the boost comes up and it wll lack power and give you the conition you have.

Ken I don't know if you got my pm so heres another place to head The proceeder is simular to if not Identical to the 5.9 cummins turn up! here One thing to check before you do anything is to suck on the hose that goes to the lda at the top rear and seeif it holds vacuam if it does your good to continue on with directions. http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf

Lower that what? typicly you will see 10 to 20 psi boost in brake mode depending on rpms!

What your seeing is normal operation for the AI engine, There is a fix but it aint legal!

I have see the sensor mount rot off on the rear wheel sensors!Pull the wheels and drums and have a look if they are out board drums!

They really have no business tring to sell it as a collector or rare ,it has been to comprimised by engine swaps.

Make sure you have the outer cylinder in corectly the snapring towards the rear!just pull the cylinder off in the truck and check it! also disconect the touque limit line from the reversing relay at the engine and plug it! both ways!

Three things starting with the cheap and easy!Thermastat replace it. does it have a thermatic or air fan does it operate correctly? Rad is it clean?and one more thing if it has shutters are they opening?

Yup I agree totally with you Glen and Rob , another thing can happen too is a guy can create a leak by tring to do a repair those hoses tend to get stuck to the tubes and leave remnance on the tube which can cause leakes after reasembly. ,another question always asked Why did the job take so long is a comon question!The answer is I DID SOMTHING I REPAIRED the problem didnt write a novel on how too! Not to toot our own horn but that is why we built the boost plates in the picture I tests the Whole engine charge air system. that leak would have showed it self in an instant and probably more of them!another fairly comon leak on these engines is the inlet and exshast gaskets. Anyway , Glad it was an easy fix for ya! Anyway talk to the service people if they don't credit you back somthing get eaven!

That happens lots ,once lines are disturbed the injector orings will leak.

Id keep on drivin its likly the orings are bad on the injector did you pull the injetcors when you did the job?

[quote I\'m not so sure now. I liked it a whole lot better when I could overhaul one on the side of the road. ME TOO! You just do the best with what is put on your plate like it or not!I have noticed with theses engines after the inital programing issues were delt with the most comon failures are physical and mechcanical some, Very illusive in nature. Only experiance will tell ya the answer quickly what is wrong ,and sum times that don\'t even work. Below is the tool we use to check THE WHOLE engine for boost / exhast leaks and other wierd and wonderfull failers ,turbos passing exhast gas into the base boost bypass valve failers egr coolers leaking into coolant all can be tested in one operation with this tool on ANYONES engine for the most part, we built this as I said before ,doing the best with what we had avilable. we use it almost daily.

Guys ya can pretty much go with the simple stuff to a point on these engines but then you get thrown a curve ball EGR.Adds a new dimension to the fuel air theroy.Heat, boost preasure exhast preasure inlet air temp humity exhast leaks,yada yada,Not a simple engine anymore, sensors have targets to meet if they don't meet the targets they don't run right. there anit nothing simple about this problem, to many added features to monitor.Its not just as simple as air vs fuel these days.

First guess egr valve is sticking Second guess did they check the boost bypass valve gone haywire? 3 EGR cooler plugged.

OR a flat cam lobe!

I had a pm from mackcl96 asking if rear wheel horse power was the advertised HP for mack trucks at one time! I accidently deleted your pm brother sorry!Anyway My answer and I will stand corrected but to the best of my memory The fly wheel horse power was the advertised HP of the truck It would be a unfair and hard to compair against other vendors engines otherwise! Having said that for quite some time duing the 80s and early 90s all the trucks came with a dynotested tag in the window Its anyones guess if they actually draged full HP out of them on the dyno before sending the trucks out!I do know also we had the odd customer take em to task on the HP of the odd V8 bitching about no power to find the 500 hp engine would be making 488 /470 to the ground which aint to shabby for an un touched engine.The guys at the dyno place also comented that you could put a cup of coffee on the hood while dynoing and it wouldnt budge where other engines would shake the dam thing off the hood!

ys its the t looking fitting at the end of the fuel pump with the small line an one larger line on it.