fjh

Well done, And your welcome. Anytime.

Good to hear! Did you use the over lap method or did you Finally find marks ?I cant tell ya why ,but every mack engine with a dynatard cam will do as you discribe I accept it they have been that way since Ive been working on them!But When you think on it, as the slave fills on the dynatard it takes up the 24 thou set plus 70 thou so there in lies the depression just before tdc. It likly lets the slave fill to its fullest extent ! Even if the engine has a jake or no jake the cam will have a dynatard bump for the most part!The DT cam is standard issue no matter which brake or if no brake is installed!The E 6 came without no brake cam earlier on ,but as time ticked on it was standard on E6 engines reguardless ,all came with the depression and bump.E7 it was always standard issue.

You need to check liner protrusion once the heads are off!22 thou min 28 is better . head torque is 210 - 220 wouldnt hurt ,manifold 55. inlet man 35-45, injector nut 55 rockers 45 If the liners are below 20 we need too talk! valve set is usually stamped on the cover 24 ex 16 intake jake usually 15. All them numbers are off the top of my head but close I don't have a manual in my back pocket!

Good!To add Another trick , mark the damper on the first three as the next three come up you don't need to watch the valves.

The marks should be on the flywheel the small cover on the bottom with 6 bolts !If you can't find em ,To get it close do it the old fashoined way !Valve overlap!Get the valves on number 6 rocking (one going down one going up!) Set the valve on( one) move along in firing order ================= 153 ========================== ========================= 624 see how I have placed the numbers above?? look at the bottom and set the top #/ then look at the top and set the bottom#! It will run.Thous pistons are married to each other on the exsact same stroke doing a diffrent job at the exsact same time. Give it a go it will run.

Brother ,I don't really under stand your problem but !If your talking about the orings on the injectors they simply have done away with the lower oring on the injector it is not needed the steel washer seals the bottom and the first oring fom the bottom does not need to be there,As for your compression problem Its not injector problem !Your valveset or timing is out some where if you have no compression. Is it a vmac or mech governer.???If you get the oring in the wrong place the injecton line will leak at the head. Are you sure the fuel is getting to the injectors!

Ya guess its pretty low tech 2 1/4 slabs with mud flap glued to it . and 2 hi tech peices of ready rod. Nessitiy is the mother of invention.

Two more pics of the tool on the bench!Its a bit of a hastle to hook up but it will check every nook and crevice for leaks even tests the boost bypass valve on the asset engine.To check for blow by issues you need to remove the turbo drain tube .also on the asset engine you must remove and plug off the turbo bypass valve if your not checking it!

Here are some snaps of the turbo test tool we made for checking asset and other engines for exhast /boost leaks and blow by problems via failing turbos. just thought Id post em . would like to see what others are useing for these tests.

what kind of boost is it making? Does it smoke black under load?Does the pyro read high 900 +

Ok check the fuel preasure 20 psi or more the better What trans do you have if the engine is only making 15 or so psi boost check the torque limit switch on the trans unplug it if its hooked up see if that helps!

Good catch Bro!

I would head in the direction you have been pointed, T in a fuel preasure gauge at the fuel pump and check preasure there full load it should not drop below 20 psi full load .If it does check all the lines and if they are clear check to see the drain back valve spring is not broken,I'm kinda working blind here and am assuming its not e7 or vmack. transplant.

I have seen this many times on these units most of them boiled down to the air drier leaking internally! remove the small air line at the air drier install a temporary guage on the end and watch the guage if the gauge stays put once the compressor unloads you have an air drier problem! replace the air drier again.

Packer has a good thought there! I have seen the solnoids come loose check em while doing the valve set !(Which by the way will set the dynatard as well its built in to the rocker!)Also you can cheat some on this setting to get better performance set your exhast to 22 or real tight to 23!A little bit goes along way. 0

Crank and push rod???? dosent add up in my mind! or crank and conrod please clarify. you pull Engine out the crank out?? I'd be carefull!

I don't have all of your answers But heres a couple If the engine is indeed a 375 hp then it should be (painted silver and have a 12 speed behind it.) -2150 to 2300 rpm is fine perfer 2150 loaded note if the no load rpm goes adove the 2100 say closer to 2500 then it is 325 hp engine The valve set wil be intake 16 exhast 24 for either. -Boost sume where around 15- 20 psi'!(Guessing on this one) -pyro 1000-1150 -Dynatard is always weak get use to it! -oil psi 30-40 idle 650 rpms -oil recomend 15/40 -30 w ok -turbo depending on how hard it was worked ,replacing the turbo not a bad idea depending on what your plans are to do with the truck. -Bearings is a work thing ,if it has 10 to 15000 hours on the clock not ,a bad idea to roll in NEW bearings ! - axle it may have been born with that axle depending on application crane dump ect. The steering end play thing is not somthing I put in the memory bank sorry! good luck with your unit!

Did ya get the trans working yet?

Yes !Give them the year ,model and last 6 digits of the vin there may be somthing that can be done. They can at least claifiy things for ya! http://www.macktrucks.com/default.aspx?pageid=53 Do you guys need 405 hosepower? Maybe derating the engine will be an option? It has become most important to spec a truck for a job these days Other wise you end up with problems like this! In other words if you buy 405 hp you had better be using it 80 percent of the time!

Brother ,I'm sorry I can't help,We have had very few regen problems Have you tried the one call people?They may be able to prescribe somthing! 1-800-866-1177

It is supos to move against the springs there should be no space between the springs at all no free movement.If it looks rusty or worn at all or if in doubt change it, not that expensive there are two types a three hole and a two hole. also if you got air ride cab it makes things way worse!Don't spend a dime on anything else till you try a new lever.It may surpriz ya.

How was your idle time?

Also check the throtle lever to see if the springs on it are tight if the springs are lose the throtle will jump about and so will the rpms in light to mid throtle.To check hold the throtle at half by hand and grab on to the shaft portion where it clamps on and try to move the shaft part if it moves and you were holding the rod steady the lever needs replacing.

The inversion valves replaced the regs and the quick release I beleive, there is only one reg now you'll get it figured!