theakerstwo

Sounds like you need some real help.Yes the rad will come out before you pull the engine but good thing is the trans will stay in frame hanging on its mounts.

I have a 96 RD with wet kit and rebuilt engine with maybe 20 miles on it.New clutch and new turbo and injection pump.Camel back 18 speed 400 HP 11500.00

God has a plan for the Clintons and they have earned it.

I made a air assist clutch control for mine.Easy to do.I used a air cylinder of 3" diameter and mounted in front of the clutch lever so it could pull the lever with a chain.A air pilot valve controls that and a fuller trans shifter stick clutch brake valve like the RT6613 trans used and mounted to my stick just below the shifter knob.Ever time I clutch my finger mash the small knob down and I am so used to it when I get in my dodge I look for that knob.A air regulator is in line of the air supply to the pilot valve and that you can adj it the way you want.I want it to only help but you can add air to it and it will mash the clutch buy its self if you want to adj for it.

I can remember back when these trans was still in production and seen many come in with the trans making a lot of noise and it would be the bushing in the mainshaft gears worn out.Low end torque is harder than hi end HP on thoses bushing.That is what caused the twin and triple counter shaft trans to be invented.Those bushing were replaceable but it took a tool to roll them in after been pressed in.

Another thing wrong with using a old trans is ever day you go to work you have to wonder if its going to shell out and then you set for weeks trying to find some used parts.

My concern is how limber they may be stand up.

Keep us posted what you think of them.

And this trans don't have a bell housing on it so you would have to find one.Plus that trans there may be for a push type clutch.I can think of a lot of problems you will run into.

What ever you find out about thoses dump bodies I will be also waiting to hear about them.

I guess you guys know Obama has the EPA watching this discussion.

A 97 should be a VMAC2 but anyway some one don't know how to read codes or the ECM is gone.Yes your only guessing with out codes.

First you have to read the ecm for codes then that will give you a clue.

You just need to look at one and I think you will agree it is better than factory.

Also when a END864 engine was installed at factory into a B615 it had a special oil pan to clear front axle.I would think that would be hard to find.The intake was different than what was on other trucks.

If its air ride get the ride height set to specs and not by what looks good.

Your drive should have the late model shaft in it now I would think.I remember those first drives and the ball brg.The felpro gasket is a different design is All that is different.What I would do using it after maybe 5000 miles I would retorque the head bolts and that is done by back each nut off one at a time and retorque it and reset the valve lash.

Larry if that engine is a 237 it should have fire rings in the head gasket.That would be a steel ring that sets on top of the liner and it will seal the compression only.The head will be grooved also to met the fire ring.Dont worry about your pump drive.That drive breaks some times but its not a common thing.

If they are that cheap then buy some and then let us know how they work.I need two myself.

Let me say this, if the bolts did not loosen up then it in some cases it cracks the housing that the bolts screw into.This is common on macks that is loaded heavy and turning sharp turns. That is the only cracks I have my self seen in mack housings.

In 1965 or 66 I drove this mack down town one day to pick up a new F model cab that had came in on rail.I had no ideal how much trust that Perry Harper had put in me.

Larry your B model engine will have a push type clutch and also the flywheel can be used on the maxidyne engine.

If I were you I would check your boost with a known good gauge.

654

Some times two hell bars will get them out but I have had to cut the hold down bolts with a torch just below the injector then you can turn them back and forth while spray PB blaster in the injector cups.There is a puller that can be got from mack tools that work good also.Also I have pulled the sleeve with the injector on a few.Always use antiseze when install new ones.