theakerstwo

The only thing that i can add to this is in a lot off cases if you use too much fuel additive you can cause the fuel lines to swell up on the inside and be restricted to were the fuel flow is limited.Seen it many times. Some guys say if a lttle will help maybe awhole lot will be better.

I got that from listen to them guys on large car last week. There is thia 14 year old boy on there that they give him more shisk than any one but i guess he enjoys it.But he told some guy the other night to go to his room and play with his self..

Forget for a little bit about 4 battiers and now you have 2 6 volt and to make 12 v you will connect in a series. meaning one battery neg will go to other battery pos. Now on the other end of each battery you will come off with a cable from each post and that is 12 v. Run them two cables to your starter. Now take two more 6 v battiers and wire up the same way and connect to your starter like you did the other set.

You guys need to get a room.

Cant well all just try to get along.

I know that it will go on that trans but that trans is in the later years and is that trans you have got the same size front box as that 13 speed there? The trans that i think it is has a smaller front box but a big back box.The saft cane fit in other trans also. It will fit a small 8LL speed also.

Just my 2 cents worth but i think burning off a finger would be slow and hurt to. I droped a starter on my finger one time and mashed my ring. Took a hammer to it to get it off. Well my wife dont beleive that story but dont matter any way she still has me. And i still have not put it back on.glenn

Rob i have looked and looked some more and can not find the parts manual on those but i want to call it a rt610 but i cant say but i remember them now well but never was in one but i am sure it will be a direct drive and that shaft is a 1 3/4 pull type.I donot remenber a small 9 speed.I will look some more as i get clearance from my weak mine. I am over loading now when i try to remenber. Roadranger.com is supose to have the old parts books online but just did not find.

That says alot for the shop that took your money to balance it when it was that bad. The shop here and have been here at lest 40 years will not balance one and no one can if it has any run out in it over all. I have watched them many times and one way to balance is on the lathe turning it at its max speed and with a dial indicator set up on the spining shaft they check for run out and either straighten the shaft or add weights to it if is not too bad. There is a limit on how much weights the guys here will put on before here will break down and retube. I have seen them straighten tubes that was not bent too much with heat aplyed to the proper side and wet rag put on it drawing it the way they want it to go. Remenber if it is a two peice drive line they have to be balanced together. I dont me one with a aux in between. You cant put two good balanced drive lines together that was not balanced together and be sure that they will not virbrate.

I dont remenber a window in the F model and i started out working on them when they were first in production.

For a short time the freightliner corp. owned the Oshkosh works and before the deal was done they back out on Osh. The word was they wanted them for the millitaty contracts.

Yes i have and the puller i have here at home is a hand made deal too but i have taken the front mount off and droped the front down some and it helps. I have had them that when you start pulling them and get them up abou 3" they start to leak water out of the block in there to.Then the engine has to come out.

If it is out give me the # on the end of the input shaft and that will help some and the only other way would be is to have a rear yoke off and measure the size of the out put shaft. The real old fuller had the id tag on the top hi left rear and later years went to llower right at the back.

Back in the mid 60s we used dry ice and put a .001 srink fit in the liners and then some times you had to hone them to get the piston clearance and then in most cases that caused the rings to seat slow if ever so one day Mack factory said this is silly so we will stop the srinking to put them in and i think that help alot. I know they were alot more easy to get out.

Do this to get 12 volts from 4 6 volts.

Has it got a air controled PTO on it. That is some times were air gets in side.

50 w will run cooler that 85w90 and on top of that some 85/90 muti gear oil will eat the snychronizer material and you have a snychro that has gone bad early. I know some guys use it cause i have been around them since the Rt series came out but had seen brgs go bad due to they dont lub as well with a heavy grease and they will run hotter because they are not lubing as well as with a lighter lub. I did waranty work for eaton for many years and now and for 15 years they would not cover waranty if the wrong lub was in it. When a snychro has the material striped off of it it is from the lub eating at it. It is not from wear because the matieral will come off around on the side that is not in contact with the clutch. Any one that does alot of tyrans work will tell you that heavy lub is were you find trans problems. The mack trans for many years did get a Gl5 hi pressure grease same as rear end but never has fuller before eaton got them ever remended a muti or allpupose gears. They did call for a mineral grease for years or a engine oil call aershell which was airplane engine oil of 50 weight. I have seen guys running the mineral grease and have heat problems going to ca. and then we change the grease to 50 weight univerial motor oil and it would bring the heat down. So for years i use 50 w motor oil Which i can get here at our oil jobber and they call it univerial or base motor oil. It is oil they by to use in making a motor oil for a certain customer. It is alot cheaper. I changed my trans about 3 years ago and i think it was about 35 dollars for 5 gallon but i know it is more that that now.

Yes i am with you now and i have never done that to them but if you can do it i dont think it would hurt any thing as long as it dont srink the id of them and you cant get them back on the rails.

Rob if you are talking about the rails their self i think that they would worpe or bend in the progess of welding and then they would bind. Those trans maybe the 95 series had a binding problem any way. but the stick could be built up with brass and i have did that. I most cases you get more slack from the stick at the dognott inside t6he tower were the pins guide the stick inside the slots of the stick. I have built them up many times and grind out with a air cut off wheel and replace the two guide pins or bolts in the tower and then watch the driver get in and try it.When welding on the atick a man dont what to use no more heat than he needs because that is something that could break after over heating.

I found out not long ago that there was a after cooler set up for the supercharged engine and i think it was a water cooled coller. I do not think that you would help you self enough to say it helped. You are noy dealing with that much pressure so there would not be that much heat added to the intake. That is my 2 cents. I think you are dealing with the late in eventing temp efects like engine did that did not have a turbo. They would run better at night than in the day. But when the turbo came along that was not noiced as much.

I dont think a dyno will be any help to you but maybe to them for 250.00 but it will not tell them much. I most cases when it howls on a coast the is a ring and pinion noise. If you see mudflaps shacking that will not be from a driveline virbration because if the drive line was vibrating bad enough to shack the truck it ant going to stay under there till you get back to the house.

The last that i used was about 105.00 to fill a eato 13 speed bying by the gallon but on mine it gets 50w motor oil.

Thats what i used maybe for 30 years but i got to using the snapon oil and i asked a snapon rep one day what it is and he said light motor oil so since then what goes in the engines goes in my impac. Cant see any difference in the way they work and dont smell as bad as the marvel or as good which ever. I oil one maybe 5 times a day when using it alot. Air drill motors should get oil ever time you pull the trigger.

To check the hubs and wheels would be easy, just knock out your axles and run the speed up on the drive lines and see if they virbrate. With out the axlesin there you will hear a gear noise because there is no load on the rear end but that is not the same as a virbration. If you have two drive lines going to the reat end behind the last trans then they have to be balanced together and not separate.If you load it and it is quiter with a load than empty then you may have a ujoint angle problem. Some times you can run with out axles in the hubs and set speed where it virbrates the most and hold it there and get under there and with a rag in your hand you can touch the shaft at the front or rear and feel it virbrating and that was you get a ideal which shaft it is in.But so many times guys will bolt up a rear end under a truck not understanding the angles on the drive lines and this is what happens some times. It is very important to get those angles right. Angle of the engine and of the aux trans and the angle on the drive lines and the slack in the slips and the slack in the yoke brgs and yoke nuts will be a factor. A bad gear does not cause a virbration but can cause a noise and some guys get that mixed up. The ideal angle on that set up would be 5degrees on the engine and same on the aux trans and rear end.

http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/depdf.aspx?prod=JOI Here is some info you can read but if it is a virbration and not anoise and there is a difference then you need to check ujoint angles and also there is limit on any drive shaft for the spped of it. The drives shaft will have a limit due to thickness and speed of it and length and the angles on the ujoints so no one can tell you the speed limit untill you check all of those things and then there is a program from http://www.meritorhvs.com/LODSearch.aspx That you can calulate all of this. A noise you dont feel and but hear and some guys get this mixed up. A virbration you feel.Trans will not virbrate unless they have a bent out put shaft. A vibration will losen yoke nuts but lose yoke nuts did noy cause the vibration to start with. If a drive line is set at the proper angles the overspeed would cause a vibration but it is at hi speed just before D day. If that is air ride there is a ride height that is very important. glenn