Flying Pig

Outside on the door. Paddle type that lifts to open. I had my hired man crawl between the seats to get in under the mattress.

Just acquired a 1994 CH with a sleeper. First day of work the driver side door latch failed to open. Had to crawl in from between the seats to get the winch bar to load the trailer. Release paddle offers no resistance like some linkage came off. How do I open the door to repair this?

I have to change cams to add a Jake??? Ive not heard of that on any other brand of engine.

What does it take to add an engine brake to a 1994 E7 400?

Thanks, Paul. Will that serial number then tell me what HP its set at?

Can anyone tell me when the T3 series transmissions were introduced?

Heinz, the VIN says E7 350. Freighttain, can you show me exactly where to find that on the pump? The engine tag hidden behind the pump is missing. Have yet to find anything on the pump.

Hoping to get the best possible outcome.

nuts

I found an E6 350 4 valve for parts "nearby." Not real near but its not clear across the country. Broken crank. Can I use this to make my 300 a 350? Or is this an impossible question to answer?

mrsmackpaul, The tag on the valve cover indicates its a 300. Ive contacted some help at a dealer here in Iowa that is tracking down serial numbers. Part of the tag is unreadable but he said it is for sure a 300. Back in the 70s I was always overweight, weighing in a good 20,000lbs over. Even at that weight I found a few speeding tickets. This one however is governed at only 1700. Ill get more details as they come available. The axle ratio is 4.17 and tires are 11x22.5.

I am in a predicament. It wasnt till we got home doing some more in depth looking for an increase in power that we found the engine tag missing from behind the injector pump. Only part of the one on the valve cover is legible. I dont plan on big changes in power. At this point anything would be better. Initially I was hoping to get to 400 thinking it was an E7. Now Im not so sure what I can do.

I asked lots of questions before I had all the information. Now that the truck is here I can supply some more details. Maybe not such good as I thought. The truck was advertised as a 1990 CH 350hp with low miles on the engine. Seller didnt have paperwork. The tag tells us instead of an E7 350 its had an E6 300 transplanted. Because of this we are uncovering lots more. I have a guy from Housby in Des Moines looking into what the factory says I can do. Years ago I made a living hauling grain and livestock with a F model 300+ and a 5 speed. Did good for the time and still got me a few tickets. However, now with the rising speed limits Im not sure this will keep up. Anyone know (while waiting on factory and retired tech advice) if I can screw this up any on HP and torque? It has the air to air intercooler plumbing consistent with the CH body. My previous questions had to do with changing the transmission to go slower in job sites. I got many responses to those and I thank you all. I was leaning toward an 8 speed but someone suggested a 12, 13, or 18 speed. I did find ratios for the 18 and that would be lower than my Ford with Fuller 9 speed(12.47 low). Not as low as the Mack 8 but still an improvement. Also not the big jump from direct to .6 OD. The throttle cable looks new but is REAL stiff and resistant to moving. What is the best way to lube that up? Ive found the E6 uses a cable tach drive and it appears to me so far the E7 is electric. Any way to update that? The speedometer/odometer also only work part time. Beings I am an interstate carrier I NEED the odometer to work. Im plenty tired of the audits and fines... Thanks for all your expertise.

Brought the truck home. Rear ends 4.14, 11x22.5. Truck has sat for a while and seemed to be pretty doggy but after some miles got better and faster. Hired man took it home to clean out the grain dirt and got it up to 68-70ish. BUT that was with the loud peddle flat on the mat. Both the tach and speedo will need attention, useless in current condition.

For many years I had been under the impression that all Mack engines had a torque curve that was flat as the great salt lake. In the mid 70s I ran an F model with 300+ and 5 speed. Legal weight at the time was 72000 (73280). I exceeded that with amazing regularity but the truck pulled it with ease. That what sold me on Mack power. Ive contacted a dealer to ask questions but an office retirement party stifled any call back. Im not here to argue but to learn. I understand that I need a lower rear end(I'll find out soon what Im dealing with) and that is why I want the lower gear and higher OD. Seller tells me it will do 70-75 down the hiway with tall 22.5s, which is ok as long as I can get around in the soft ground.