Freightrain

Yup, once I started chiseling the gunk out of the bottom of mine, it had a hole. I was able to get another canister for mine from the original owner. He had another wrecker chassis with a motor and a good canister. I also put a spin on/separator next to the drivers tank. I change that randomly and it surely saves the wear/tear of the old style hanging on the motor. If you can't find a new can, just put a spin on unit.

Ya, you will really have a tough time slowing your shifting down to match that 5spd compared to any regular synchro'd transmission. Remember you have to be going FAST enough to get it to drop into the next gear. You can't just shift up through the gears idling along. Run'r up to 2100, let it drop down to 1200 or so and then just lightly pull/push it into the next gear. It will fall in without a lick if you do it right. You can't rush it. Once you find the rhythm it will become second nature.

Or 711 ci. If you can't find the marking on the front of the accy drive, then count head bolts and size(check the corners). They changed size/number later on. New parts are getting to be hens teeth.

The alt on the Mack is not an Azone unit. It is a truck unit from local shop. Yes, the other ones were from Azone. I know they don't have "quality" stuff, but I can't say it has caused me any real grief. Having Azone stuff on the wagon is good, cause I can get parts anyplace I go. I have friends that buy the high end special stuff(starters/alt) and if they have issues at the track,,,,they are screwed. When I plumbed the air intake on the new motor I used 4" steel exhaust tubing from Summit Racing. I didn't have alum welding capabilities back then. I do now. Try Summit racing. They list alum tubing, straights, turns. Summitracing.com Link to what I found: https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/vibrant-performance-aluminum-tubing?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=aluminum tub&sw=Vibrant Performance Aluminum Tubing I ordered silicone couplers from a place online. They have anything you could need. http://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/hps-silicone-coupler-coupling-hose.html

I limped it along for a few summers. It always got me there/back so I wasn't too concerned. Not like it needs power to run once its started. With two batteries, my lights would survive a few hours without it which covers most of my trips. I am glad I finally changed it though. Had issues with my '69 F100 years back. It too would not really keep up if the electric fan kicked on(motor cooling). Thought it was strange and finally pulled the alt and took it back to Azone. They confirmed the regulator was bad(likely one side of diode pack toasted). I apparently had gotten the "gold" one and it was lifetime warranty. They handed me a new one and wow...it charges like crazy even with the fans on. Unlike the wagon, unloaded it in Pittsburgh last fall and made it to the staging lanes and suddenly no charging. Ugh. Had to get a ride back over to Turnpike to get to an Azone and replace it. Using the Mack was going to be a real PITA due to pit parking was packed and no real place to go once I got in.

Congrats. More pics?

I just replaced mine because it took forever for it to kick on. I'd have to drive it for 5-10 minutes before it would suddenly start to charge. When I took it to have it checked, the guy came back and said "Yup, it's got problems. It needs to see 3500 rpm to charge". Ya, that's a problem(with a motor that on goes to 2100 rpm). New one kicks off instantly and hopefully keep up with the load. That was the other issue, with all the lights on, it would hardly keep 12v. With air start it is not really a problem, but still not good.

Mine was no where near as bad as that but it was a bit sludgy. I only realized it was bad when I got on the highway and truck started slowing down(lack of fuel). Pulled it apart and it was ugly. Of course then I realized the housing was rusted through and had to replace it also.

Definitely see if it is the shifter or linkage that is frozen and not the box. Pull the pin on the clevis and see if handle moves.

The heater fan switch has a resister built in and that is how the switch functions. Off, hi, lo.

Yup, $15 is what I paid a few years back. Glad to hear you are making headway. What chambers does your truck have? 30/30? New ones are cheap and easy........ and no worries of that spring inside!!

Air start! Yes. Lol. You don't have all the starter wiring to deal with(multiple batteries). I still left both my 12v batteries even though I put air start on last winter.

Just had to replace the one wire alt on my truck after 15 yrs(it was starting to not charge all the time). Kinda pricey, but is 160 amp version. More power then I need for a all mechanical truck. I'm thinking like $200? Have to dig up receipt to confirm. I got it at local starter shop. You can re use the stock generator bracket, just had to make spacers to locate the alternator between the original tabs on the mount. Long bolts or some all thread and nuts. It lined up perfectly with crank pulley. Had to revamp the slide bracket for adjustment as it was not correct to match up with alternator slot. Not a big deal. Then just one good, like #6 wire, run back to the batteries(bigger the better) and one good ground from alt to frame. I replaced my AMP meter with volt meter. You will need to change your battery connections to NEGATIVE ground. The starter will still work fine(the series/parallel switch should be fine too since you are just changing polarity). If you keep the AMP meter, you will need to pull dash and swap the wires around since it will read backwards with the change of polarity. I put a 12v starter in mine the same time I swap to alternator. My s/p switch was giving me fits and I was tired of messing with it. I don't recall swapping wires on gas gauge or heater motor. The heater motor should be shaded pole, meaning it only runs one way no matter what direction you put power to it. I could be wrong. I was once before......

One of my favorite videos.

Likely much cheaper/easier to just buy a new governor. Does it look like this one? Mine started failing and a new one was cheap. I know there are a few variations, but might look at using this one?

Should just be a pipe tap fitting, like 1/4"? Might be kinda stuck after all these years. Don't know what the factory put on the threads?

That chart looks to make everything .002-.005 press fit for the shank of bolt. I suppose if the shank is about the same size UNDER then it would slide in. If not, it would take a really big hammer to seat them? When I did my air ride stretch, I used Gr 8 5/8" flange bolts, self locking flange nuts and reamed the holes to 5/8". Put them down with my 3/4" impact.

Or what is left of a 318?

Interesting. I agree, the clutch linkage on a B is simple enough, reliable and not heavy at all. Why would they want to put an air cylinder on it? I just assumed maybe for an Aussie RH drive or something with a real weird engine/trans combination. I know it is more common on early COE.

Wonder why a B model would have air clutch? Something unique about the truck? Right hand drive?

I did some testing of the unit after taking it off the truck. Everything is fine, resistance circuits are fine and ramps up okay. One thing I did notice was my airline was small and wondered if it was not applying well enough. I changed the fittings to 1\4" plastic instead of 1\8". I aired the truck up and it seems to snap up harder\quicker with more air volume. This won't help with overall power but just better actuation. I confirmed my trailer circuit. Has 1 ohm resistance. That equates out to 12-13 amps total draw. 12 v times 1 ohm equals 12 amps. I want to change out either just the magnets or the whole backing plate/brakes. It has been 21 yrs. Going to check online for some pricing.

I recall many "older" trucks getting square lights but I thought it was for an "updated look". My old round sealed beams due fine but I need my Perlux driving lights too. They don't blind oncoming traffic with the shutters on them. The new headlights drive me to stay home after dark. Just can't deal with being blinded.

No more loose nut behind the wheel! The Pony Express has it coming your way.

Ok I have a nut and lock washer from my spare box. It is 1 1/8"-16. I forgot my pitch gages at work but using calipers it appears to be .062/ turn. Nut uses 1 13/16" wrench. If you can't come up with a nut locally I will throw this in the mail next week.

Never been an issue with brakes. I know the release valve works at only 60 psi, but at that point you don't have full pressure releasing the brakes and likely not pulling them hard enough to bottom them out. I can move my truck with only 60 psi, but you can feel the drag til it gets up full pressure. It's not an issue with the compressor cycle pressures, but at only 60 psi it is not fully released. My compressor in the garage might fill the tanks but won't be over 100 psi due to my 60 gal tank on compressor and getting it to cycle enough to fully fill the truck to 120 psi.