Freightrain

Now these are cranes...............

Play hell doing an inframe? Speaking of bad frames and motorhomes. Buddy and his g/f went to Key west a few weeks back. Took g/f big motorhome. Got down there and was feeling something was wrong. Ya, took to dealership and was told the whole front cabin area was broke loose off the chassis!! WTH? So they had to leave it and hop on the bikes for the rest of the week. They trailered the bikes down. It was a nice motorhome, not a piece of junk. But goes to prove how flimsy those things are.

Ya, HGR, been there a few times for work. It's a BIG place with a LOT of stuff in it. Wish I had the room for a lathe in my garage, but too many vehicles! I have a nice table top mill(vintage JET, not a new cheapo chinese). 9"x24" table, so it's not really small. It took my engine crane to get it up on the bench in two pieces! Guys don't hog machines here, but I won't tear down set ups to do guberment work(and that dept is busy). The problem is we just lost another small lathe(broke it and we're scrapping it), so machines to do this kind of work are hens teeth in our shop. Now, if I wanted to throw that 3" piece of material into the Lehman...but it has a 28" chuck and 38ft between centers> Kinda big for what I need to do. I'm well versed in CNC conversions, so that wouldn't scare me at all.

I got the through hole put in without issue. Drill cut right through. The big thing is cutting the shoulder and the pocket on the adjoining part. The tooling needs to be a razor sharp corner to cut this stuff. The typical steel cutting inserts have radii which is not good for cutting plastic. It tends to just melt it and push it over. Something I just didn't think far enough ahead of. So, I will make up some tooling and start again. Haven't scrapped any material, yet.

Well, I tried to machine the poly urethane yesterday. Didn't go well. I need to grind up some brazed tip tooling as the std steel cutting insert tooling I was using has too large of a radius and just made a mess of it. Ugh. I don't mind making stuff, but getting time in the lathe is hard anymore with the workload in that department. Then to have the wrong tooling? This is when I wish I could just BUY the damn mounts. Either that or I need a lathe at home?

Well I tinkered with the passenger door. The window seems to work a bit easier now. Not perfectly smooth and easy, but not worth tearing it apart, at least now. The door closes nice and tight. On to the drivers door. I got the guts bolted back in, need to get one snap clip for the window mechanism. It either walked away or was always missing? I also got 1/4" thick foam to see if that allows the door to close tighter without having to adjust the striker out so far like with the 3/8" thick foam(that is on the passenger door and works perfect). Baby steps.

Been looking for something to put on the back of the bunk. That right there would be pretty cool.

Near same color of a fellow I met locally about 15 yrs ago with a blue Mack bus. It was in much better running condition! Very cool unit.

So as long as you NEVER have to work on the truck again, it's good? LOL!!

Keith, those wipes are for a '67-72 F100 pickup. They were like 4" too long, but had the radius corner that matched. I confirmed from my '69 F100 in the garage. I had to cut just a bit off the length of the corner as it was a touch too long there also. There was a fourth clip in that corner. The three remaining clips hold them in the door just fine. I just had to drill the holes for them. They used the original Ford part number: PART #:C7TZ-8121452-SS https://www.rubbertherightway.com/1969-ford-truck-restoration-parts-80954-prd1.htm All the parts had MADE IN USA on them. Likely with "global parts"? They were nice, no complaints on visual quality.

Yup, crank the glass to the bottom. It needs to be BELOW the top of the channel at the top of the door panel. Then, with some wiggling you should be able to persuade it out of the door. My drivers door panel falls out easily. My passenger door takes lots of very carefully said cuss words! I'll let you use the words I use....just can't type them on the forums LOL!!! Start with George Carlins 7 words you can't say on TV...that's a good start.... I see you are using tape on the door to help with not destroying the paint. I finally had to do this with my new doors. Ugh, the old doors were much easier to work on!!

I used OEM Mack glass I bought from Barry 17 yrs ago!! I was going to mention I might try to polish it down as it is just a slight bit wider then the glass I removed. Though the channels still had OEM felts in it, as I had to cut the rivets to removed what was left. I'm just hesitant due to not wanting to destroy the glass(ie: shatter it). Wingman, The wagon motor is a 428 service block, 427 cross bolt caps, 4.25 Scat forged stroker crank, Edelbrock heads(hand ported), Crower flat tappet cam. Made 625 hp at 6500, 600 ft/lb at 4000 rpm. Run has run 10.83 @ 123 mph. Typically runs 11.0's in the summer. My little '69 F100 has 428CJ motor, med riser 2x4, toploader, 4.56 gears. Some videos: I'm guessing you are posting from a tablet? They tend to rotate pictures when put on a forum. Don't ask why, it's just a common issue.

Well, it went well, sorta. The inner tube was just the right thickness to make the lower channel press on snug. I used weatherstrip adhesive and it seems to be holding. Only real problem is the channels are so tight the window is real snug moving. Way too snug for my liking. I used the old glass to support the lower channels as they set up, but the new Mack glass I bought 15 yrs ago is just a TOUCH wider and is a bit tight. Once it's all assembled and put in the door, it's way too tight once it gets into the vent window channel. Ugh. This is really not working as "seamless" as I thought. Don't know why I thought it would??

So the whole deal is something to protect the glass from touching the metal channel and it sticking together. So some rubber inner tube and some adhesive would function the same if I want to do it today and not wait. I will be looking at it later today and see what it's like.

Yup, I've used short nap rug before. Just labor intensive. I like power tools!! Lol.

I worked today and the passenger door is perfect just like before I painted the doors. I was able to install my 3/8 inch foam weatherstrip and the door closes perfectly. All I need to do now is glue the new glass into my channel. What does everybody use to glue the glass? The old windows had some kind of thin fabric and likely some glue. I was thinking of using some inner tube rubber and weatherstrip adhesive? I still haven't figured out what I'm going to do with the driver's door. I will feel better at least having the passenger door completed and the mirror put on.

If anyone noticed, Rob pulled the plug on many of his posts. I noticed yesterday on my NOS door post everything he posted is gone. His Binder post is gone. The last time he left the forums he erased everything.

Mine is not really an issue with the weather stripping, it closes farther without it. It is nice that it closes tight so it won't rattle but with the latch moving it down it's wedged against the cab and damaging the door.

Well, I got my door weatherstrip yesterday. I went out to play around and boy....did that turn into a mess. I got the stuff stuck in the slot, suddenly the door won't close right. I had to loose the latch a touch, no biggie. Then I noticed the bottom outer corner of the door was sticking out like 5/8"? WTH? It was fine before it was painted. Seems the door striker is pushing the door down, the lip of the door is getting caught on the cab and holding it out. Ugh. I tried to finesse the door lip, only to crack the paint. UGH. Why me? I slotted the striker plate holes and tried moving it up more. Helped, but not enough. Where did it all go wrong? It fit fine before it was painted.

Ya, used to mow a yard for a fellow with an ol Briggs that had wind up start. Wind it, twist the knob and away she'd go. The muffler was long gone, so it had a straight pipe sticking out the side.

Looking good! I need to get the polisher after mine(same material) as mine are well worn after like 15 yrs of being out in the weather. I keep them washed, but they don't shine like that!

Had Douglas M Mair? on the door. They didn't show much else to try to track it.

Jeff and his wind up Federal

Jeff getting a workout cranking that Federal?

Found this on youtube channel I subscribe to: The old supercharged Cummins has a nice bark to that jake. The beginning is the only good part. The rest, not so much. (I don't know why the R model is in the preview?)