Freightrain

Most B67 had the contour cab and are even tighter inside compared to the std cab. Just a heads up if you need leg, stomach, or head room. I'm not sure about all the maintenance of the unishift. Shouldn't be too bad especially for a hobby truck. I guess the first thing I would investigate is the air compressor. If it's worn and pumps a lot of oil that could be an issue with sludge building up. Before rebuilding my compressor, it would make milkshakes in the air tanks in short order. My air wiper cylinder was packed up and they didn't work well til I pulled it apart and cleaned everything.

Had thoughts of that but didn't think it would be a good long term fix. Thus I wondered if that was a repair part or do some machining to tighten it up.

Started noticing exhaust smell in the truck. Opened the hood and goosed the throttle and smoke bellows out of 2 places on outlet side of turbo. It's the casting between turbo and downpipe. I've had that off a few years ago and I know it is not snug anymore, but it never leaked/smelled this bad. Any thoughts on fixing it? Doubt there are replacement parts for an old 237. I thought maybe some brass shim stock cut in rings to clamp between the ends to snug it up? The downpipe fits on pins to locate and had thoughts of maching that mounting surface to move the downpipe closer to the turbo to tighten up the gaps in that short ring in-between.

I never had to change the o ring on my filter set up....if yours is a full flow like mine. Like Glenn mentioned a picture would clarify. It would have two large lines going to housing on side of block and a small hose that drains back to the bottom of the block just above the pan rail. I used to fill mine up and then cap it and start it. There was a drain back valve in the feed line that kept it near full after shut down.

Here's a close up in the garage.

I didn't mean fully shut down, but slow it down enough to create a shortage and thus price increases. Sound familiar......

Oh come on....everyone like 8" sewer pipes on a truck......

Those two pieces fold and slip into the front of the cab above the windshield. That gives you the threades holes for the main headliner to attach to. I still hav mine but continue to fall apart due to age. They fold into a triangle of sorts and wedge into place. I just my headliner back in a week ago after installing my new visor. My headliner is in 3 pcs because the seams fell apart. I have it taped together on the back. Ugh.

If we went electric, they would shut down oil wells and then raise the price of gas again due to lack of oil. Duh.

Been lucky, never had issues with any vehicle or equipment that sits with regular gas in it. Just got the old cub out last weekend after 6 months and it lit off like it was run the day before.

I've watched a few of those tiny home builds on tv. Not sure the young ones buying into this realize just how small that trailer is. At young ages maybe they think it's a good thing. Give them 20-30 yrs together and they will each want their own trailer just to get away. Lol.

I still run my 1974 cub cadet tractor. Still original motor, purrs like a kitten. I used to poke around looking at new stuff until I found this about 7 yrs ago. The new plastic crap is chit. The carb will drain the fuel if you leave the petcock open, so I make sure to turn it off just before parking it.

When I put my 237 together I bought my coolant and air hoses from this place. https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/

I got my top end gaskets for my 237 from Ebay. It was a Felpro kit.

Hmmm, maybe I will switch over from 15w40. Thanks for the info.

Been contemplating this change on my truck for years. Haven't wanted to cut the original yet, been hoping to find a used SS model that might fit well. I know Watts used to offer a dry filter set up but is a bit pricey these days. I know oil bath is supposed to be better but I know my 237 sure does pull a lot of oil through the intake pipe.

I loaded tapatalk once and quickly shut it down. YouTube is pretty easy and one quick link and it is posted anywhere you want.

Yup, it needs puller to get off the crank but I just put mine in a 200* oven for like 10 minutes and it slipped right on the 237 crank. Not hot enough to burn the seal in the front cover, just enough to get it on the crank.

Bob you need to use YouTube and then post a link. If you try to just download a video straight to BMT it doesn't work well.

I know I used the hub and balancer from my 673. Maybe that is the problem, the E6 is offset enough that it won't work in a B?

I know the heater box was the first piece I restored in my cab. The cover wasn't nice enough to chrome plate...and I'd like to do it, the dash and glove box lid. I could use stainless steel and polish it?

Take off in a gear that you don't have to ride the clutch. My B can go as high as third low bobtailing. Whats the saying.....ass for every seat? Looks like that seat had every ass in it!! Lmao!!

I also can just barely get the belts off my motor. Just enough wiggle room. I think that's normal. You do have to run a 673 balancer and water pump.

Wonder whats longer about it? Its still just a 2 valve motor, right?

Ugh...how bad I need this. I'm currently taping mine back together enough to install it again. I want to do a pleated version. Shipping would kill the deal for me.