Freightrain

Yup, if you get through 12 hrs without having to build 120# you are lucky. My .02 is the air wiper switch and shutters are the two main sources of leaks when truck is shut down. You may have other possible leaks but if the truck is pretty sound, the two things I mentioned will cause the quickest leaks. The wiper switch is a single O ring and the shutter is a rubber cup seal.

5th was OD, so using under or direct in the compound would be slower gears. Once in 4th Over, 5th was the last gear.

Back in the day they would add a tag axle to carry the weight but it was not necessary to have it a powered axle. Not much different then todays dump trucks with 3+ tag axles under them.

One of my favorite back drop manifold videos is Dan Thomas with his W71 and those old ATHS videos.

Awesome! Sounds purrfect!! Wish my shifters were that tight!

Doug used to offer bumpers, but I think they were SS.

1985 build date, so likely just a replacement B model tank. I'm not familiar with any other model that used that style of tank. Sorry. Hope someone else has some input.

My niece had an Audi A4, turbo hotrod. Ya she calls me and it won't start one morning. Ugh. Ya, crapped the belt, she didn't know anything about that needing replaced at xxx miles(well past) and last time it was in for service (stealership) they told her nothing. Guess they wanted to sell her a new car instead( Never happen)? She took it to a couple places til a service place would touch it. Lucky for her it only needed a belt, not a head. She got rid of it shortly after because she was upside down in it with the mileage she puts on it and the real value of it.

My starter is very lightweight aluminum and easy to handle.... Oh, that's right, I have an air starter....LOL.

The passenger side was 40 gal, the drivers was 50 gal. since there was no stack bracket in the way. This was square tanks, not sure about round tanks.

Great info. Thanks. I know 20 yrs ago when I was working on my wiper control knob that there is different variations. The air lines were different and it wouldn't function correctly. I ended up sending mine back to Barry and just putting a new o-ring in mine to help seal it up.

This ∆∆∆∆∆∆. I think that is what the most critical aspect is. The tires do NOT need to be deflated. Those clamps will be wedged tight and smacking then loose before removing the nut is the only real danger of taking a dayton rim off. The thread size for the nut is what you need to know the torque for. Some are larger then others and this would take more torque. I never really torqued mine, just the 3/4" impact going around in cross pattern after confirming the rim runs true. I did watch my local tire shop torque them the one time they put new fronts on.

I was not referring to the wrench size. I was noting the actual thread size. A tape measure is more then close enough to guess. It is 1/4" steps in sizes so you can eye that close enough.

Likely 1/2" pipe. It's all std stuff. For a simple check, if the Outside diameter of the thread fitting is 3/4", its 1/2" pipe. Pipe dimensions go by the INSIDEof the pipe, so it's like 1/4" bigger then the actual size. So a 3/4" pipe is about 1" in diameter, and so on.

Yup. Measure 6 times, cut once.

Just do it! I took the leap of faith and it turned out pretty nice.

I bolted jakes on my 237, no problems. I'm trying to recall it used longer head studs in certain locations? Heck, been 5? yrs so I can't recall. But if you are swapping between engines, then you should have everything to do it and have two running engines.

Yes, the early valve stem was larger and took a different disc. My 237 was like that. That disc is NLA. The later, smaller stem is available.

Should bolt on. You can still get full kits for them....just real pricey. I went through mine when I bought them used(old and unknown condition). Bought everything through local Mack dealer.

Should be the same as any other B tanks as far as I know. They have drawings they will send you to sign off before they build them. I tell this story every time someone looks for tanks. I had Alumitank build my (2) 40 gal tanks to match exactly the stock tank. Their version the step is too high. Ask for the 40 gal tank they made for "General Plastex"(co. I work for). That is the more correct version. Then have them duplicate it for the longer 50 gal tank.

I have three sticks now. It is a spicer 4 spd aux with deep under. I run it in direct 99% of the time. The OD is for really stretching my legs on the highway. The deep under is for tight manuevering. I don't try moving three sticks. The split in the spicer is the same as my triplex compound. Up in one and down in the other just keeps you in the same gear. Here is a video I made a couple years ago and I do use OD in the spicer once. Sorry it's a bit dark i needed to get a better angle next time.

Yes, absolutely.

Is that what is going on? Thought I saw something online joking around about him being sick. Don't watch the news so didn't know what the joke was. I see now.

I got home last summer to see my box mangled up and the post swung around at a 45* angle to the road. I was like WTF??? I was pissed. The school busses drive thru my yard to cut the corner so I figured as such. I get around to the back of the house and find a new mailbox sitting by the door and a note from the mailman apologizing for doing it. Seems he forgot to close the door before pulling away and it spun the pole around. I tried manually turning that pipe. Nope. I had to get the Mack out and put a chain on it to swivel it back straight. Then a new board to attach the new box. Looks like it never got hit. Still waiting to put some 2x4s in the yard with 16 penny spikes to flatten the tires on those damn school busses. The grass grows back all summer, then it's all tore up for the rest of school time. MFrs. I put some metal fence stakes up around the corner and the next day they were bent into the ground by the first bus.

I just did a quick search on ebay. Lots of choices.