Freightrain

I like the visor too. I thought Barry was going to work on a deal to get them to the states? Been maybe a year now? I usually lock mine up when I'm at the race track, as I've had a few individuals just "hop in" without asking!! Um....Please get out of my truck!!! I'll be the first offer a look inside, but surely don't walk up and get in unannounced. At a truck show I'll leave it open, but there isn't anything inside that is free to take. I keep everything locked in the box behind cab.

Wow...didn't even catch that. Really sad, as I've never really though about it, though my locks work well I know the vent windows are easy picken's to get into these trucks. Are you at a show? or is that the resident parking spot? I could see if it was well a traveled area that you want security.

Need to test the small power lead to s/p switch, so when you push starter button, see if you get power to the s/p switch. Might be broken wire inbetween. If not, then likely the s/p switch is bad. I went thru a couple of them on my truck before converting to 12v starter. They can be cantankerous at times.

Good look'n ol iron Rod!

Reach under the dash with a wire lead and jump the two terminal and try starter button. This will confirm a key is needed. Simple fix, like Herb mentioned. If you don't want to buy a new switch, then take it to local locksmith and have them key it for you. My truck had different door locks and ignition(what a pain). I pulled the doors and had them made to fit the ignition key. If I recall correctly, my key says Briggs/stratton on it?

Boy didn't this just sneak up quick like? I'm still putting plans in the works to get over there, hopefully on Fri. Likely after lunch by the time I get on the road. If that falls thru, I'll be over there Sat morning sometime. If I come Fri, I'll be draggin my home away from home(40ft trailer). I suppose there is someplace I can camp for the night?

Once you tell them the seal number, they'll give you the proper sleeve to repair the yoke. Heck, I probably still have the information from mine. Your's a double reduction?(likely). Ok, seems we might have a discrepency on our conversation. I am starting to think you might be talking about "BACKLASH" in the pinion. The effect you can rotate the pinoin/yoke back and forth? It goes clunk clunk? This is common and is not something you'll need to adjust. The "wobble" we are referring to is up/down motion of the yoke itself. That could be caused by loose nut or worn bearings, though likely in your case it's just loose pinion nut. You mention groove in pinion shaft? Shouldn't cause any issue, as the seal rids on yoke, and that's where the speedi sleeve would be put.

There should be just about no slop in the pinion, as the bearings are preloaded tight and this does not allow for side movement. Unless of course if the bearing are worn it will have slop. There again, like Herb mentioned, the fact the nut might be loose(like mine was way back when) and that will cause a leak(like mine did way back) as it will allow the shaft to move around and let oil leak around the seal. It is tighter then a wheel bearing, as there is a solid spacer that adjusts the preload and on a wheel bearing, there is no spacer. Ya, a speedi sleeve is an expensive little #($*&, like $30? give/take. It comes with a sleeve to install it with and it has to be done with care or you'll screw up the sleeve and buy another one! I've always used a std seal with no problems. the sleeve is very, very thin and the seal has plenty of room for give. Make sure to lube up the seal surface with grease so it doesn't run dry at first drive. When you do tear it apart, look at the surface where seal rides on the yoke. If it's got any wear/groove in it, you're better to sleeve it as if you don't get the marks covered up it will tear the new seal. Sometimes emery paper will fix it well enough, but if you can feel anything fix it right.

Is the bearing tight? Is there any slop in the pinion? I've replaced my seal a couple times now and used a speedi sleeve on the pinion itself. First time was 7 yrs ago, then it started again last year so I did it again last winter. All is dry. I'm thinking I didn't get the nut tight enough the first time around(it was loose when I pulled it apart first time). I only had 3/4 breaker bar, this time I had 1" impact wrench!! I'm pretty sure I got it one more notch on the cotterpin this time. I'll give it 7 more years before I complain.

Was the old sensor dead shorted internally? That would have blown the fuse also, then after replacing the sensor it would take a new fuse to get it working again. Something to consider.

Paul has it pretty much covered. Before Maxi brakes...it has a manual drum brake on the rear of tranny, thus the reason for wheel chock back in the day. Like mentioned, alot of trucks got converted over to spring brakes. Tranny's: gasser's could have 5, but diesels went 10, 15, 20 spds. The 10 spd came as a two stick OR one stick(unishift) as the fist venture into air shifted compound box. I don't think you'll find any over the road tractors rated for 80K like todays truck, but with only 200 hp available you couldn't put that kind of weight on it and get anywhere very fast. Most times they were only geared for 45 mph(max speed back in the day). I know alot of these trucks pulled more then 100K at times, but that was a very, very slow trip. I'd bet(without looking) most GCVW were around 50K or so.

Small hole? 1/16" hole is pretty small. Most drains cocks would have been 1/8" pipe or larger(which is near a 3/8" hole size). So it's an open hole now? It needs a plug put in it for the system to be able to work. Start up? You'll need to air that tank up to 100+ psi, push in the "shut off" on the dash and then hit the starter. Unfortunately with air start you can't "crank and crank and crank" like with an electric starter. You'll get a few seconds of good cranking then it will run out of air and quit turning. Not good for starting an old engine that hasn't run in a while. Lot of guys will pull start them, as you can keep it turning by just pulling it around in circles. Air up the brakes(so you can release the parking brakes--if it has spring brakes on it), then also it will give you brakes for when it does start and you need to stop it from rolling into something.

I love a '78 T/A just everyone else. Especially a "gold" edition, as a close friend of mine had one. His was just a few steps above that one and he had it totally restored(full qtrs) and it was perfect when he was done. Great cruiser car. If you have the room, I'd go with the U(like everyone else). It's hard to beat an old Mack, though being a short wheelbase it will be pretty rough riding. There is still alot of parts around and you can spiff it up pretty easily. I suppose the price is just over scrap? It's sad as it's a pretty tall price for the overall condition it seems to be in.

Nice look'n F model! Thanks for sharing.

And there was an opertor IN the dozer! Bet he had a "pucker" factor goin' on LOL!! Probably couldn't fall out of the seat if he was pulled with a chain LOL!!!! Looks all salvagable...though I bet the pickup might have some issues. Can't tell how close the truck/trailer got to it before it stopped.

No doubt!!! Being a Featherlite, I suppose it's not TOO heavy LOL!!! Bet it really makes my ol dog pretty slow though.

Nifty job for the ol Dog. Imagine that with a B model in front LOL!!!

Pretty impressive looking. I'd use them, as like everyone else...NOS perfection my truck isn't. My originals are pretty fair condition, though pitted from sitting outside for a long time. I'm sure they were replaced when the truck was painted way back when.

Looks great...sounds pretty smooth too. Strap a few more cans on her and go stretch the legs a bit!

Lot of connections here at BMT. Someone will likely know someone that knows where there is one for sale. It took me about a year to find mine(in my own town). Good luck and welcome to the board.

I got my Yokohama's for $250 ea, then $50 ea for a tubeless rim. Best thing I could have done for it as I use my truck all summer and I'm not worried about "looking" original(as some guys want for their trucks). I run about 70 psi all around and it drives smooth and nary a wiggle in the wheel at 65 mph.

I had old bias plys on mine when I bought it and they weren't terrible, just old. I put new radials all around and it's smooth as glass at 65 mph. One finger driving most anywhere. The reason mine broke was I have mine cut down to only 3 leaves out back. With the last 7 yrs of exagerated movement the big leaves gave out. These weren't meant to move as far as I was moving them, so they broke. With NEW leaves I'm sure it will out last me.

Rear? Ya, I've had mine out. Even broke RR just a month ago. Check in the forums, as I posted about it. Go figure, 50yr old springs breaking? Mine is only a s/a, so it's an easy job. If you have camelback........that's a whole other story. I haven't had the fronts out yet, though someday I'd like to get them redone. Right now my drivers side has a clamp that has popped on it, though it's not hurting anything I'd like to get it repacked. I suppose the worse is getting the rear pin out? The front is on a slipper pad.

The old truck crowd is WAY different then "car" people. We don't like trophies, period. Push, pull, drag it in with a chain and you'll get people to look at it, ask questions and appreciate that you brought it! I used to do car shows/cruise in back in early 90's, and you're right it's all about the voting(stuffing the ballot box) or judging. My pickup was just a nice original '69 F100(back then) and I never expect to win anything(and never did) but it was funny to watch the fanatic people that freaked if they DIDN'T win something(some should have, some shouldn't). I have a friend with a '67 Shelby Mustang that took 979/1000 pts at National show. He was told to basically not bring it back as it was too perfect. So now it's a showpiece that never is going to see the light of day again. It's worth too much to drive to any local shows. Good story: Couple years ago went to car show at Ford Dealer. It was suppose to be "all ford". The "dealer choice award" was a '50 sedan that had a Chevy subframe and 350 powered. HUH? Alot of very nice Model A and T's and other super sano cars, but they picked this "custom". Ya, real Ford ya picked there. Ok, I'll quit ramblin' I've had my car down to Bowling Green a few times. I used to travel some with the NMCA (nat muscle car assoc) and run N/SS with it. Now I stay local as it's too expensive to run too far anymore.