doubleclutchinweasel

If mine had been anywhere near that good, I probably never would have let it go.

Put a harder pull on it and see if it gets any louder! Might not be workin' it hard enough to get enough heat in the exhaust. My 611 didn't make much sound either...bobtailing. The 611 I used to work would get much louder when it was actually pulling.

Ahh. Cool.

Oh, and I once saw these types of wheels called "artillery" wheels. But, I don't know if that was an accurate use of that term.

I was something like 6 years old, and was walking in front of one I thought was empty. No muffler. Full air tank. Blew dust out from under the truck. Damnedest thing I had ever heard! Sounded like the truck was angry at the world! I figure that's what it would sound like if The Almighty took his impact wrench to the earth. But, it's something you never forget, after you heard it once. Before that, I'd never even heard of an air starter. I did, however, already know about pony motor starters on Caterpillar tractors. But, that's another story...

First time I ever heard somebody start a truck with an air starter on it, it scared the ever-loving s#!t out of me!

Car? What car? I don't see any car.

Yip. No point in crying over it on the side of the road!

I think the originals MAY have been made by Orscheln... https://orschelnproducts.com/product-category/park-brake-systems/ They might be able to steer you in some direction.

Wow! This always opens up a can of worms! Here are my thoughts. But, my thoughts aren't worth the paper they are printed on. LOL! Gear ratios needed? Torque capacity needed? Those, I think, are more important than the name on the box. Mack transmissions are good. RoadRanger transmissions are good. If either was truly "bad", they would go out of the transmission business. That being said, like some of the guys have said, one might be better in some respects than the other, and vice-versa. I have driven both. I have liked and disliked both...depending on the specific box. I will say they feel "different"...not better or worse...than each other. From a strictly engineering point of view, there's a lot to like about the triple-countershaft design. But, the RoadRangers have proven themselves for years. And, they ARE easier (and cheaper) to find parts for. There's a lot of good engineering in those boxes, too. Oh, and the MAINSHAFT gears on the RoadRangers are NOT pressed on...they float. The COUNTERSHAFT gears are pressed on. I've been in there. I don't think you can go wrong with either, IF you select the one with the gear rations and torque rating you need. Both have stories of running forever without issues. Both have stories of premature failure. There are probably certain models of both which are better and worse.

In my experience, putting a good high-detergent oil in, running the engine enough to get it hot, and changing the oil regularly WILL clean a great deal of gunk out...over time. Can't overemphasize how much heat helps. Around-town engines that never get good and hot tend to build up a lot more sludge. Ones that run long distances at higher temps tend to run cleaner. And, good oil is a must. Back when the world was young, and so was I, there were a couple of commonly-used oils which tended to gunk up more than others. Most oils today are far better than anything we had back then. Your results may vary...

See..

Lights on! Yay!

We called the axle-mounted spoked part the "spider", and the removable rim either the "rim" or the "wheel"...depending on which side of the creek you grew up on! LOL! Incidentally, we always referred to ANY type of hub-piloted or stud-piloted wheel as a "disc" wheel. Didn't matter if they were "Budd" type or "Alcoas", or whatever. So, it was either "spoke wheels" or "disc wheels". Only 2 choices we had! Funny how terminology varies from region to region...

The hole size meters the amount of oil going up to the rockers. I would not enlarge them. Bigger holes mean more volume, but a smaller bearing surface remaining. Just get 'em clean, and all should be right with the world.

I joined ATHS a few years ago. Then, I found out that got you absolutely NOTHING! They also wanted you to join a local chapter, in addition to the nationwide club. I let it die.

Some of those guys are hanging out over at justoldtrucks.com You can PM them from that web site if you join up. It's not the same over there as it is here, BUT it is a way to stay in touch with some of the MIAs.

We always just called them "spoke wheels", or "Daytons", because they were one of the manufacturers. But, I believe the technically correct term is "demountable rims". See Southwest Wheel or Accuride for examples. https://www.southwestwheel.com/c-855-tubeless-demountable-rims.aspx https://www.accuridecorp.com/sites/default/files/resources/2019-07/W1.000 Rev. 4 Accuride Wheels Product Catalog_0.pdf

You ever get this sorted out???

Puttin' it back the way it came is usually a good plan!

Someone mentioned the Allis-Chalmers "Big Al" engines a few posts back... https://www.donhummertrucking.com/blog/2015/04/17/big-al-is-king

Hope that does it for you. Looks like a lot of bang for the buck, as long as it works. Looks to be fairly simple to install, at least. Let us know!

Sounds like the thermostat is either stuck open or missing. I would almost bet missing. Stick a 180 in it and it will probably be fine for a hobby truck. Actually, I BELIEVE the P1 opened at 155, and the P2 opened at 170. I have all that information somewhere, if I can just find it. http://www.wattstruckcenter.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_72&product_id=387 Maybe???

Not sure if this helps, but here is the adjustment page from a 2-disc Spicer clutch instruction brochure. It talks about setting the brake, exactly as FJH said, and then adjusting the internal clutch clearance. I had to do this to my old R, after which the clutch and the brake worked perfectly. Whoever put it in had not done this, and I thought I was in need of a new clutch, and I had no brake. But, once properly set up, the thing worked like a charm.