doubleclutchinweasel

You absolutely can get R-models for that...or even less. A lot of what to look for depends on the intended use...work or hobby. Once these guys know what you are wanting to do, you'll have more opinions than you can shake a stick at!

This is actually the old version of the red button. If the trailer lines come loose, this valve trips automatically to protect the air supply in the tractor. And, if you want to disconnect the trailer, you flip this valve first, and it separates the tractor and trailer air systems. Like I said, the later stuff used a red push/pull valve to do the same thing.

Mine came factory with a gearbox on the speedometer cable, mounted right on the trans. There are several folks out there. I can't remember the brand on the one I had, but they were still in business at the time. Might have been the Clark listing below, but I'm not sure. https://speedometercablesusa.com/gear_box_adapters.html https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/SPEEDO-GEARBOX.html http://www.clarkbrothers.net/ratio_adapters.html

You'd think that all those guys that pulled the Daytons off would have some parts lying around that might help you! Maybe they would swap you for your Budd setup?

Can't do it right now. Makes me cry!

Adding the release circuit, like Rob said, isn't too difficult. It is mostly independent of the service brake circuit. Really just have to get air into and out of the "release" chamber of the parking brake. The service brake side is pretty much the same. Of course, it is a good idea to set up the parking (spring) brake release valve with an anti-compounding setup. There are several different ways to do this. There are a variety of valves with anti-compounding features built in. My old R had it plumbed into the parking brake valve itself. This was a VERY simple system. The anti-compounding valve was not much different than a regular valve, except that the exhaust side of the parking brake valve was effectively attached to the service brake line. This dumped the parking brake air through the treadle valve exhaust when the spring brakes were applied. If the foot valve was applied with the parking brakes set, air pressurized the service brakes and at the same time equally pressurized the release chamber of the parking brake. This essentially cancelled out the additional pressure being applied by the service brakes. Kept you from applying full service brakes and full spring brakes at the same time. Once the parking brake valve was released, and pressurized air was ported to the release side of the spring brakes, the exhaust side of the valve was blocked off, and the service brakes worked normally. Pretty sure this was a PP-2 valve. Might have even been a regular PP-1 with the exhaust port tied to the service brakes. Just cannot remember. Sorry! But, I think it was the PP-2. But, like I said, Bendix has a variety of valves that will allow you to do this in different ways (using modulating valves, relay valves, etc.). The schematic is a little hard to read. But, you can make out the "exhaust" line from the "auxiliary valve" going to the service brake line. PP-2.pdf PP-1.pdf Push-Pull Valves.pdf

No s#!t!

I can't wait to see this thing finished. As close as I am to you, it would be a crime not to see it in person.

Great question, and should spawn a lively discussion! I never saw anything but green back when the world was young, and so was I. But, there were a lot of strange things shipped out of the Mack building over the years. Maybe some of the brain-trust can elaborate on that. Looks like a lot of truck left in those pictures.

I sent him an email from the JustOldTrucks site. Will let you know if he responds. His last activity over there was 3 years ago, though.

Funny you mention the vent window frame. On both a B and an R, I used to hold onto the vent window frame with my left hand while driving. On more than one occasion, the wind blew the vent window closed...on my hand. Made up some words that would make a sailor blush. Finally learned to hold onto the mirror strut instead.

Isn't the R-model frame wider at the front than the B? Seems like on the BCRs, which use a B-model frame, the front of the frame rails are visible in the grille opening. I'd try to save the R, but I'm a little weird. The seating position in R is a lot more comfortable, in my opinion. 'Course, nothing looks as good as a B.

Very cool Super Dog.

We discussed the tube-type rims a while back. Yes, they can be an issue. But, if they were all as bad as people say, we would not have successfully used them for all those years. I believe that the condition of the pieces (whether it is straps, rims, or chain binders) and the competence of the user has more to do with it than anything else. But, that's nothing new. Some people can't work a screwdriver safely.

Shows last activity on the JustOldTrucks site as 3 years ago.

I saw a guy killed under a dump body that fell on him when I was fairly young. Never forgot that. If you block it up, use huge, solid pieces of wood. Don't take chances under that thing. I don't think a 4X4 is near big enough. The mechanic at our shop had 10X10 and 12X12 timbers he used under those things. He also had some steel-framed contraption he made that worked under certain bodies. Be careful. Gravity's a bitch.

The year model might also help. There have been a few different brake systems on the Rs. I have some air diagrams, but they are in the service book. Makes them hard to copy.

Had a really well-equipped shop, for sure. That cylinder did have a good bit of "whip" in it when it unloaded, didn't it?!

I wish everybody could be that objective and methodical. There are a lot of old wives' tales and myths that could be dispelled with that kind of methodical testing. Sure a lot more thought-out than the Myth Busters TV show! "Now we know, and knowing is half the battle."

Love those Spicer type u-joints.

20" tires are going to be tube type. That opens that can of worms about the multi-piece rims. 22.5" tires are going to be tubeless. That means 1-piece rims. We've beat that horse to death on here...many times! I have run 20" bias drivers and 22.5" radial steers too. No issues.

I am real anxious to see what you can do with that B. If it comes out as nice as some of the other stuff in your shop, it should be pretty awesome.

Point is, there are a lot of options out there. And, don't forget, you can go the Eaton-Fuller route if you want to . But, that adds a lot of complexity in finding all the right parts. The build sheet on mine had several pages of goodies related to the RoadRanger box they built it with. I still like the 13-speed Triplex and 18-speed Quadruplex boxes for top speed. Just as long as you don't twist them in half with that Maxidyne engine! lots of folks running those boxes in hobby trucks behind a 237 Maxi. But, if actually working it, you have to be careful, because those boxes are not built for the torque of a Maxi. The one I used to drive had 4.17:1 gears and the 18-speed. Direct 4th was good for just about 60-62. Hi-Split 4th would easily go to 65-67. I could never find the limit on Hi-Split 5th (didn't have enough HP on that ENDT-673C 250-horse to get there!).

I don't exactly know what boxes y'all are talking about. Might have been later versions. But, there was a 5-speed with a single stick (TRL-107 series). Then, there was a 6-speed "extended range" with 2 sticks (TRXL-107 series). The "lo" on the compound was supposed to be used only in 1st gear. That's your extra low gear. Here is graphic showing some detail on the ones I am talking about. The TRXL-1070 (or maybe it was a TRDXL-1070) would have been the same as the TRXL-107, but with "direct in 4th", and an overdrive 5th. The "0" on the end of the number is the "overdrive" designation. Model numbers were on the left side of the box. There are several discussions on here that have pictures showing the location. Somebody on here had the one I am talking about (TRDXL-1070). Check out this link. https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/56848-mack-trdxl-1070-questions/