thomastractorsvc

I was able to finish all the welding and was able to put primer on it last night came in around 10:15. I pressure washed, wire brushed, acid etched, pressure washed, wiped down then shot primer. I thought about sandblasting but the tread plate only had surface rust and mill scale everything else was basically clean. I needle scaled the goose-neck where it had a plate welded on but was untreated. That is the only spot where there was any serious rust corrosion. This morning I was able to shoot some paint as there was no wind. I only painted up to the wheels as my plan is to pull the wheels to paint the rims. I sprayed 3 coats on everything that is visible and two coats on the cross members. I had it on concrete so I painted the bottom on the creeper. The weather is supposed to be rain for the next few days so will see what happens. Looking back at it I should have used a different color but my wife thought it would look good in black but it also shows all the imperfection. The upper deck looks good but you can see the nicks and dings in the rest of the trailer where a green or yellow might not have looked so bad. I am not planning on a repaint to a different color so it will be fine. My lights are due Friday and I still have to run the new brake lines and add the chambers, than add the boards. It is coming together slowly. I was telling my neighbor today at lunch, if it would have been a customers trailer it would have been down the road a long time ago, I think I don't know when to quit and add or fix or do one more thing! I made a set of steps for both sides and coated them and the step under the trailer with bedliner materiel for slippage.

Did you ever get it running?

The poor man's way a hydraulic bottle jack a few tack welds a piece of chain and a length of channel and most important ambition with patience. I thought about getting it bent and sheared and made a few calls but decided that I would attempt it first since I would have had to load everything up and drag it into town. I tacked welded and made a few marks than started the bend with the c iorn and jack than Re adjusted and worked at it until I got the right bend. Then while it was pressed down I tacked it and used a hammer to get the corners down the way I liked. The left side went in like a dream so my confidence was up for the otherside.

I am going to add a hidden piece of pipe to the floor for an umbrella, the neighbor thinks i should just finish it out as a screened in Gazebo

Update I found some time this past week to work on the trailer and get some stuff done. I went and built an upper deck.

Here is a print out that I had emailed to me from Manders for my Superliner 1 by vin number I was surprised that it shows a R hood but was told it is correct according to Mack support tech number. FYI Hoods are different for Superliner 1 vs Superliner 2 so make sure that you check the print out for your style of hood. SUPER+LINER+HOOD.pdf

By the way the Kenworth rubber hood guide/pins are the same and about $10 less per side.

I just bought new rubber mounts/bumpers from the dealer. How do you get the print out of parts? I have tried to get the online access even tried to get Watts to order a part manual said they could not get it. I am tired of searching for a part number with no parts book.

Looks great nice color choice

Looks good with that Black Smoke

where you at a truck show?

Pretty standard 25 years ago now everything is mostly air ride. I have not had a load on it so not for sure how it will ride but based on my past experiences with spring set up depends on what you drive for a truck and how much you have on. The trailer is pretty heavy I think so I am sure it will ride okay. Did not bounce on the drag home over 150 miles, I did slow down for the rail road tracks, or into KC and back from the trailer repair shop

Update I had some time this past week to get all the wheels pulled and new hardware and cams freed up. Friday was half day of school and my oldest son helped me and we were able to finish the last side. Now to move onto the adding of an air tank, brake chambers and new air lines and wiring. I am still undecided on building a platform on the goose-neck so before I do to much more I need to make that decision. I decided on buying aluminum 15K ramps, after figuring metal, hinges and how much flip over ramps would weigh I decided to see what aluminum ramps would be. 15k ramps were less than $700 and weigh 50lbs each, Steel would have been $800 including double hinge and helper torsion springs and about 170lbs each. I custom ordered them from discount ramps.com http://www.discountramps.com/and they come with a engineer stamp and warranty. They will be 6' x 16" with angle hook and stub on other end. Brake shoe holder I made to drive out the roll pins and bushings Lots of life left in the shoes just everything was rusted or frozen up Everything installed just like new

Looks great. Not to bad on time either for all the work you did.

Looking great. You should add a air gate and leave the handle to make it look old school.

Looks like it may also have the "rip cord" style starter now installed. I have one but only in case the battery is low.

On mine I thought it would take about half as long as it has taken me. I have some brake parts I am picking up this morning that I have been waiting on since Monday so hopefully I can get the brakes taken care of today I am up to around 35 hours on my redo. I still have lights and paint and at least most of a day pulling the brakes and changing the hardware.

How long before you get it back? Did they say how many man hours they thought it would take?

looking good

I bought 10 3/4 inch weld on D rings still thinking about where to put them, I will probably load the B before I attach them.

I replaced my pyrometer in my R a few months ago before I sold it. I was able to get the manufacture info off of it and researched it and bought a replacement from them less expensive than Mack, and it is OEM so it matched everything. It was so cheap I bought a new probe and wire too. They accept payment over the phone and are in CA. They sent me a packet of other items that they make and they still source OEM to Mack and other builders. Hewitt Industries 714-891-9300 http://www.hewittindustries.com/

That looks like a great find and in great shape. Start saving your quarters, it looks to be a truck worth having.

Weather turned out decent this afternoon so I was able to get these glued on with the welder. I am using it to cover the old frame that was banged up pretty hard. I got most of it straightened but after heating and banging on it, it really never looks like new so since I have some left over pieces I figured I should cover it and it will add strength as I decided to completely weld it all the way around in stead of stitch welds. I did that in hopes of corrosion prevention I left a small weep hole at the lowest point. On Friday I spent about an hour or so and did some grinder work on the gooseneck and cleaned it up and it looks pretty decent. Waiting on slack adjusters and four spring brake chambers, then I will tackle the wheels. I have the air tank, valves and new lines. I am going to start on the ramps tomorrow after I make a few calls to see what I can buy and what I have to make. I stopped by a local trailer sales today and looked at some ramps and to see what the couple different manufactures did with their ramps and the double hinge set up. I got online and it looks like you can buy ramps and hinges from Load Trail and PJ Trailers so I thought about calling them to get there measurements to see what will work. I would really like to be able to flip over onto the deck or pin straight up in the air. I have also thought about aluminum ramps and building ramp mounts to store them when not in use. They are around $850 for 20K ones. I will have to see what metal I have and will need to buy vs what I can buy and use. vs

Congratulations on the win! I hope the phone rings off the hook with sponsors for you!

Congratulations on the win, hopefully the sponsors will now start calling.