Joey Mack Posted yesterday at 08:58 PM Author Share Posted yesterday at 08:58 PM So here is my new field kit. No instructions with it. My guess is I have to weld the copper tab to the back of the power stud. Will solder withstand the amps, or will it melt ? I do have lead on hand if that is what I need. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596043 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted yesterday at 09:20 PM Share Posted yesterday at 09:20 PM I have used solder but I suspect silver solder would be better. At least you starting with all new and clean parts. 2 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596044 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted yesterday at 09:21 PM Share Posted yesterday at 09:21 PM it looks like it spells out good,,lol.ithink thier glued in,,,,,im sure someone has better advice,the main thing is they were available,,, Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596045 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted yesterday at 09:23 PM Author Share Posted yesterday at 09:23 PM Silver solder ? I will buy some. I have a common solder, but dont know what it is made of. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596046 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted yesterday at 09:38 PM Share Posted yesterday at 09:38 PM try UTUBE someone might mention them Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596048 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Joey Mack Posted yesterday at 10:17 PM Author Popular Post Share Posted yesterday at 10:17 PM Yes Bob, I guess I can go to You Tube University. I prefer the Goeff Weeks Vocational Technical Institute when it comes to my KB-7... 4 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596050 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted yesterday at 10:29 PM Share Posted yesterday at 10:29 PM well i dont blame you i just poked around and yes many guys cover them,,,good luck 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596051 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tjc transport Posted 23 hours ago Popular Post Share Posted 23 hours ago normal solder is lead and tin. electronics solder has a flux core, plumbers solder does not and needs flux added to the surface before applying the solder to make it stick. 3 Quote when you are up to your armpits in alligators, it is hard to remember you only came in to drain the swamp.. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596053 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted 23 hours ago Author Share Posted 23 hours ago I have all of those solders.. I just need to pick the one that wont melt when I crank the engine, on a day when it starts hard... 🍻 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596056 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Geoff Weeks Posted 3 hours ago Popular Post Share Posted 3 hours ago Joey, If I were to do it over again. I'd buy a "jeweler's" air-acetylene torch and a small tip. You need heat but in a smaller area then the typical oxy-acetylene, and go with silver solder. I think that way you'll have the best chance of a permanent repair regardless of what voltage/current draw passes through the connection. The key is the small, concentrated heat source. 3 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596083 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vladislav Posted 2 hours ago Share Posted 2 hours ago There are two basic kinds of solder. 40% tin with 60% lead and opposit - 60% tin with 40% lead. The 1st is generally used for electronics. It melts about... hmm, sorry guys, about 200C. That's that solder you find with flux put inside. The other kind has higher melt temp and higher mechanical strength. Here it usually sells as thick sticks. It's more for mechanical jobs and can be used with solder acid for work with steel and SS. But for some reason I haven't had much luck using it (not enough skills?) 1 Quote Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012 Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596084 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted 2 hours ago Share Posted 2 hours ago Silver Solder is a bridge between brazing and soldering. Silver content can vary with higher silver content having a higher melt point. In this application both the ability to hold the pole windings to the stud when heated and the ability of silver to conduct better then "soft solders" are a benefit. 2 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596086 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted 2 hours ago Author Share Posted 2 hours ago I have solder with silver, and a small propane torch. Will my brazing tip be better ? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596087 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted 2 hours ago Author Share Posted 2 hours ago Ok... so I was also thinking about drilling a hole in the windings strap and the center of the power stud and tapping it to accept a small bolt, then soldering it... Thoughts ?? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596088 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted 2 hours ago Share Posted 2 hours ago (edited) There isn't a lot of room in there, so I don't think there is a mechanical means to tie them to the stud. I tried propane and found it wasn't hot/concentrated enough. I used my smallest oxy tip and worked fast, but as I said, If I had to do over I'd use a jewelers torch. The way I did it worked, but was less than ideal. some of insulation wrap got hotter than I'd like. Mine still work just fine. Every time I have to crank a bit to prime, I cringe thinking "you dummy, you should have silver soldered it"! I'd "dry fit" the field to the stud then push the stud away from the case and insulator (to minimize the heat transfer to the case) and solder. Edited 2 hours ago by Geoff Weeks typo 2 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596089 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted 2 hours ago Author Share Posted 2 hours ago Thanks GW.. how about , I line it up in mock up, mark it and take it to a jewler and pay him to weld it ?? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596090 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago The issue /question is can you get the stud in place with the field welded to it? I hadn't pulled my field pole shoes, so there was very little room to work. With the pole shoes out you should a lot more room/options, but I didn't do it that way, I was just trying to repair a connection that had broke loose. With the pole shoes bolted in there isn't enough movement in the ends of the windings to do much more than depress the stud away from the case. So not having done any repair with the pole shoes out, I can't give concrete advice on what is possible. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596091 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted 1 hour ago Author Share Posted 1 hour ago got it.. yes it is tight and the strap may not bend enough to allow the stup to be installed with its insulators... I will use my silver solder and propane torch on a practice piece 1st. If it is not hot enough I will get a MAP GAS cyl. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596092 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted 33 minutes ago Author Share Posted 33 minutes ago Another thought I have is to use my silver solder, then buy a 12 volt battery that has amps that compare to the correct 6 volt battery. However, I dont know what that amperage is... Go figure...... Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596093 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted 12 minutes ago Share Posted 12 minutes ago On 5/15/2026 at 6:58 AM, Joey Mack said: So here is my new field kit. No instructions with it. My guess is I have to weld the copper tab to the back of the power stud. Will solder withstand the amps, or will it melt ? I do have lead on hand if that is what I need. Joey it shouldn't be getting hot at all, if it's getting hot enough to melt resin core solder you'll be damaging the windings insulation Heat is the enemy of electrical cables and the insulation that stops them shorting out So maybe the heating of the solder while in use isn't much of a concern Big battery leads and good clean terminals will stop most of the heating Of the battery cables are to small and heat up this will heat the stud and possibly melt the solder Paul 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596100 Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjc transport Posted 12 minutes ago Share Posted 12 minutes ago 2 hours ago, Vladislav said: There are two basic kinds of solder. 40% tin with 60% lead and opposit - 60% tin with 40% lead. The 1st is generally used for electronics. It melts about... hmm, sorry guys, about 200C. That's that solder you find with flux put inside. The other kind has higher melt temp and higher mechanical strength. Here it usually sells as thick sticks. It's more for mechanical jobs and can be used with solder acid for work with steel and SS. But for some reason I haven't had much luck using it (not enough skills?) Vlad, over here we used to use the 60 tin 40 lead for plumbing. now plumbers solder has to be lead free, and the composition has switched to 95% tin and 5% antimony Quote when you are up to your armpits in alligators, it is hard to remember you only came in to drain the swamp.. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596101 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted 8 minutes ago Author Share Posted 8 minutes ago Yes Paul , that is what I am looking to do. I have very good cables and terminals. My goal is reduce the heat from amp draw.. thanks bud.... Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596103 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted 3 minutes ago Share Posted 3 minutes ago It shouldn't get hot, but it can. the surface area where the windings connect to the stud is small. Solder has worked for me, but if I was going to do it over, I would use silver solder. Absolutely necessary? no, my starters are proof of that. I just feel it is worth the effort. It will take future stiff nut threads breaking the soft solder. Where he is putting in new windings, I'd go the extra mile. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/76657-my-48-int-kb-7-sanford/page/3/#findComment-596105 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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