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Ok, my transmission didn't have a clutch brake on it because it was from a stationary powerplant and didn't get shifted.

Are the brakes pretty generic as for fitment?  As long as it is for a 2" shaft it will be okay?

I know my input has a groove for the brake to engage.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Other than type, 2 inch should be what you need.   (one piece torque limiting...2 piece replaceable or "hinged type" replaceable).  By replaceable I mean without removing the transmission. I really don't know if the input shaft retainer would be any different.

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That is a torque limiting clutch brake and would be my 1st choice also. There is another "1 piece" that is just a solid disk with friction material on both faces. That one can break off the tabs that slide on the input shaft if "pinched too hard" The torque limiting prevents that from happening by slipping if it gets squeezed too hard, before the tabs break.

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18 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Yes, that is the reason I posted that example..  it is more forgiving then the solid types.. 

most folks don’t understand the use of the clutch brake  so yup I agree with that choice! Myself I would use a two piece eaton brake but the set has to be perfect! If you don’t set and use  techniques correctly you can ruin them with one poke to the floor! Don’t ask me how I know!😡

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1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Thats because a lot of drivers do not understand the 3 stages of the clutch pedal..  as a driver trainer, i spend a good bit of time explaining the 3 stages. As to be expected, new truck drivers slam the clutch to the floor as if they are driving a car.  It takes them a bit to understand how to use the middle part of the clutch stroke for double clutching...  

Very true Joey

When learning and someone misses a gear, the first thing we naturally so is panic and shove the clutch to the floor 

OOP's

Makes it even worse and we try even harder

Oh dear, we need to learn some how 

Paul

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58 minutes ago, Mark T said:

I could be wrong, but that cover and input shaft  looks worn from the picture. 

The splines are worn a bit.  It takes "special" tools to replace it or I would get one.

Or I will have to buy more $400 tools for one time use...🤦

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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That little bit of spline wear shouldnt cause the clutch to drag.  Removing the input shaft is easier with the bell housing off.  But then you will need a new gasket.  It should be fine like it is.

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The gasket is new, so likely wouldn't hurt it getting it back apart.  Now I know how to get oil halo out.

The kits I found have a gasket included.  Not bad $220 for everything. If it is the right kit.  I looked up Eaton website and this is what it called for a 18912a.

https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/rt-series-eaton-fuller-transmission-clutch-install-kit-for-2-input-replaces-part-k-2468/

 

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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11 hours ago, Freightrain said:

The splines are worn a bit.  It takes "special" tools to replace it or I would get one.

Or I will have to buy more $400 tools for one time use...🤦

No special tools needed my friend. 

A good set of snap ring pliers,  a good flat tip screwdriver,  and a hammer to tap the input shaft (use a brass one).

They do make a puller setup for doing it and it is handy for sure, but its not necessary. 

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52 minutes ago, BottleHauler84 said:

No special tools needed my friend. 

A good set of snap ring pliers,  a good flat tip screwdriver,  and a hammer to tap the input shaft (use a brass one).

They do make a puller setup for doing it and it is handy for sure, but its not necessary. 

does he have the snap ring set up OR the left thread special circular nut requiring the long tube "socket" (special tool required one) having two pins which engage the nut for removal ????

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Just now, mechohaulic said:

does he have the snap ring set up OR the left thread special circular nut requiring the long tube "socket" (special tool required one) having two pins which engage the nut for removal ????

Never seen the "nut type" on anything this new. IIRC it is a very modern Eaton he is working on.

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14 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Perfect, 2" one piece clutch brake please.. 🍻

it's the old story ::everything has a place/purpose. have installed the two piece number of times. P I A to install the roll pins , but not as bad VS  the transmissions had to be removed.

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11 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Never seen the "nut type" on anything this new. IIRC it is a very modern Eaton he is working on.

I probably haven't worked on anything that new !!!😀 Eaton rebuilds for me go back to Baskin Robbins RTO9513/ 12513. and YES   some had the snap ring set up along with round nut. I had the special socket for those;; must be another gone in the auction item,

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27 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

does he have the snap ring set up OR the left thread special circular nut requiring the long tube "socket" (special tool required one) having two pins which engage the nut for removal ????

Good question bud, but the RTLO series transmissions only used the snap ring setup. If i remember right Larry is updating to the RTLO18913 or 18 speed..... But that is a good point on the older series transmissions that was definitely a thing with the nut setup.

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