Clutch brake

[Freightrain]

Ok, my transmission didn't have a clutch brake on it because it was from a stationary powerplant and didn't get shifted.

Are the brakes pretty generic as for fitment?  As long as it is for a 2" shaft it will be okay?

I know my input has a groove for the brake to engage.

[Mark T]

Other than type, 2 inch should be what you need.   (one piece torque limiting...2 piece replaceable or "hinged type" replaceable).  By replaceable I mean without removing the transmission. I really don't know if the input shaft retainer would be any different.

[BottleHauler84]

Personally,  I prefer the 1 piece brake. They seem to hold up better. 

[Joey Mack]

What does the input shaft look like ?

[Freightrain]

 

[Joey Mack]

Perfect, 2" one piece clutch brake please.. 🍻

[Joey Mack]

[Geoff Weeks]

That is a torque limiting clutch brake and would be my 1st choice also. There is another "1 piece" that is just a solid disk with friction material on both faces. That one can break off the tabs that slide on the input shaft if "pinched too hard" The torque limiting prevents that from happening by slipping if it gets squeezed too hard, before the tabs break.

[Joey Mack]

Yes, that is the reason I posted that example..  it is more forgiving then the solid types.. 

[fjh]

18 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Yes, that is the reason I posted that example..  it is more forgiving then the solid types.. 

most folks don’t understand the use of the clutch brake  so yup I agree with that choice! Myself I would use a two piece eaton brake but the set has to be perfect! If you don’t set and use  techniques correctly you can ruin them with one poke to the floor! Don’t ask me how I know!😡

[Joey Mack]

Thats because a lot of drivers do not understand the 3 stages of the clutch pedal..  as a driver trainer, i spend a good bit of time explaining the 3 stages. As to be expected, new truck drivers slam the clutch to the floor as if they are driving a car.  It takes them a bit to understand how to use the middle part of the clutch stroke for double clutching...  

[Mark T]

1 hour ago, Freightrain said:

 

I could be wrong, but that cover and input shaft  looks worn from the picture. 

[mrsmackpaul]

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Thats because a lot of drivers do not understand the 3 stages of the clutch pedal..  as a driver trainer, i spend a good bit of time explaining the 3 stages. As to be expected, new truck drivers slam the clutch to the floor as if they are driving a car.  It takes them a bit to understand how to use the middle part of the clutch stroke for double clutching...  

Very true Joey

When learning and someone misses a gear, the first thing we naturally so is panic and shove the clutch to the floor 

OOP's

Makes it even worse and we try even harder

Oh dear, we need to learn some how 

Paul

[Freightrain]

58 minutes ago, Mark T said:

I could be wrong, but that cover and input shaft  looks worn from the picture. 

The splines are worn a bit.  It takes "special" tools to replace it or I would get one.

Or I will have to buy more $400 tools for one time use...🤦

[Freightrain]

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Thats because a lot of drivers do not understand the 3 stages of the clutch pedal..  as a driver trainer, i spend a good bit of time explaining the 3 stages. As to be expected, new truck drivers slam the clutch to the floor as if they are driving a car.  It takes them a bit to understand how to use the middle part of the clutch stroke for double clutching...  

Double clutching?  WTH is that.... 😆 

I'm either starting out or not near the clutch pedal.

[Joey Mack]

That little bit of spline wear shouldnt cause the clutch to drag.  Removing the input shaft is easier with the bell housing off.  But then you will need a new gasket.  It should be fine like it is.