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2004 ch613 with e7 won’t start without ether, then runs fine


2wdiesel2021

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I just acquired a 2004 ch613 dump truck. Has the e7 with egr. Problem is that it won’t start without a little ether. Once it spins over just a little faster it fires right off and will run great. If you shut it off and let it sit more than 5 mins it won’t start again. Have replaced cam and crank sensor, fuel primer, fuel pump, return line check valve so far. Also on another not the fuel gauge, oil temp and pyro gauges won’t move or work at all. I put new sending units in all three with no change. When i unplug the dash cluster and then plug back in all the gauges sweep. Speedo and tack work, oil pressure and water temp work. Where do i start as far as those go?

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What is the voltage drop while it is cranking?? Like FJH said, below 10 volts, the EUP,s won't fire..  of the starter pulls a lot of amps, it will lower the available voltage for the EUP's..

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A man that i worked with a few years back had a 02 E7 that was same way.It would start cold but not hot.i check the voltage at cranking and it was holding at 10.5 volts.I did not have time to do any more being i was trying to run a dump truck my self so i told him to take it to mack.First thing they did was replace the starter and no more problem after that.The strter sound like it was turn engine good to me when hot but any way he be ok now.

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glenn akers

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It spins really fast hot and cold. It’s nothing about being hot. It’s only when it sits. Overnight or 10 mins it doesn’t matter. Weird thing is it will just try to start at every key cycle. Like a quick couple cylinders fire but not quite enough. Cycle the key and it does it again but won’t start. 

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Could the fuel system be sucking a tiny bit of wind? Just enough to loose prime? Had this happen on my series 60 Detroit. Man worked on the return line and used one of the push to connect fittings. It didn’t hold 100%. It wouldn’t start after sitting a few minutes. Ether would get to light up. And at idle it would slowly want to die unless you gave it some throttle.

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I have fixed many bad wires at the flywheel sensor, on the engine side of the 2 wire harness.. I find the insulation rotted off, and sometimes frayed wires, and even a terminal in the plug, loose and pushed in too far to make a good contact..  and as stated, a starter that is drawing to much power, can cause this issue.  I assume you don't see any outside diesel leaks around the file pump or lines..  is the oil level rising due to a leaking fuel pump seal?   Jojo

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No rising oil level, had an external Leak at the primer pump but replaced pump since then. My next step is going to be replace the suction lines from the pump all the way to the tank. That’s really all I have left. Will check the wiring harness at the crank sensor. But the crank sensor itself is new. 

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Yes check the RPM/TDC harness.. I suggest you take the heat shields off and look really good at the EUP wires..  they tend to rub through, and can short out against the block..  it is a bit of a long shot, however, I have fixed many of them too.. 

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Once it’s running it’s idles smooth and runs good so although the eup wires could be an issue i don’t think so. Once in a while when i crank it shortly after i shut it off it fires a little then dies out and then catches itself and idles. Seems to help if i put the throttle to the floor for some reason. But that only if i had just shut it off minutes before.

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14 minutes ago, 2wdiesel2021 said:

My guess at this point is the suction side between the pump and tanks, that’s really all I haven’t replaced at this point. But was trying to rule any other odd problems out of there were  any with this particular engine. 

Can u pressurize the fuel tank and look for leaks in the fuel lines..

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once again  check the grounds on the block under the starter and the starter connections! 

Rule out the cheap and easy first! you have all ready parts cannoned it by the sounds of it!

Just saying! also check your tank vent!

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