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2wdiesel2021

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Everything posted by 2wdiesel2021

  1. Well i would think it was the wire strictly for the number 2. Reason being is that it only affected EUP number 2. Only had a code for that one and it only missed on one cylinder. I would assume if it was power for more than one it would have affected those three cylinders.
  2. What’s crazy is you couldn’t actually see an issue at all. The wiring looked very good, it’s where it was twisted to go to the EPU. It was dark in the shop and under the heat shield and i literally saw sparks and that was a good thing.
  3. Ok, got the fuel gauge plumbed in and had a fairly consistent 70psi. Took the EPU harness off and inspected and couldn’t find a problem anywhere. Reinstalled new split loom and put back in the truck. Started the truck and had a very obvious miss at idle. Getting a code for 2 cylinder voltage high. Go move wires around and saw spark right where the wiring touches. No bare wires at all but it was arcing through the insulation. Repaired the wire and now everything is good. And the sewing needle on the pins on the harness worked great. Thanks guys for all the help.
  4. Got it, thanks. That front ones easy access. Any idea if it’s NPT thread or what?
  5. I have it after the regulator, which i was told previously that’s correct.
  6. That looks like it’s right after the fuel pump. Previous comments stated to put the gauge after the return check valve?
  7. Sewing needle, that’s a great idea. All my picked were just a little to big.
  8. I had the pin out diagram. Used a little tiny Allen wrench but had to push it past the plastic just a little bit. Guessing maybe i spread the connectors a little. Has to be that.
  9. Ok, thanks. Took the eup harness all the way off anch checked everything. All looks good and ohmed good. Reinstalled and now i have codes for low voltage at every EUP and it will barely start and run horribly. Not sure where I went wrong. I am guessing i somehow spread the connectors kn the harness side. Going to have to figure it out.
  10. Making sure I am putting the gauge in the right spot. I made a t into the return line after the little Regulator screwed into the block. Is that the correct spot?
  11. I am going to T aim right above the compressor after the fuel pressure regulator. There’s no sensor anywhere right there that I see?
  12. I replaced the fuel check valve. Can I T in there to check fuel pressure?
  13. Well now the truck is acting like it’s running out of fuel or missing when trying to accelerate. It gave me codes for #5 eup data intermittent or incorrect. And the same for injector number 2 but just real quick as i was driving it. I had it on the laptop as i was driving. It idles just fine. It has a new fuel pump so i doubt low fuel pressure but any on-site is appreciated. Makes 26-28 lbs of boost still just misses it feels likeZ was running good for a couple of days
  14. Figured it out, I was getting an intermittent j1939 communication code, so started messing with that and unplugged the egr computer behind the eecu and problem solved. Doesn’t cut out anynore
  15. My driver just called and said he got loaded and it wouldn’t hardly accelerate at all. Shut the truck off, let it sit a minute and it was better. But still cuts out sometimes. Could this be the engine computer doing all this?
  16. Yes I cleaned both of those. I saw those two. That’s one place i didn’t check was the relay stuff on the passenger side
  17. Cleaned all grounds really good and it seemed to fix it, then about an hour in it started doing it again but less frequently
  18. I have a 2004 ch613 with a 350 aset. It started cutting out just randomly like you shut the key off and if you let off the throttle and back in it seems to come back. I put a new throttle position sensor and it has new engine position sensors. New fuel filter and pump, what else could it be? No codes related to it, just egr codes but that’s been that way for a long tine
  19. The back of the cluster has one plug with about 20 or so wires. Then it has that green plastic with copper in it. Everything physically looks fine.
  20. Found the problem, VCU fuse behind the dash was no good. It was a resettable fuse and it was hot. Replaced with a good fuse and started right up. My dash gauges that don’t work are fuel, voltmeter, trans temp and oil temp. Al new sending units. Where does this problem usually come from? The VCU itself or where?
  21. Now that you mention it, when it did start the little lighting bolt on the dash would come on. Now just the low air comes kn that’s all on the dash. Electrical is next
  22. It has low miles and no blow by. Ran great when it ran. No issues. Other than the starting issues. Gonna run back through all the wiring on Friday and see what i can come up with. But again, any help is appreciated
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