2wdiesel2021

All new fuel lines now, just have codes for egr flow and egt probe. Still just won’t start. When i loosen the nuts at the head where the fuel line goes i have fuel and when i crank it the fuel increases. I have cleaned everything and it’s spins over very very fast and will only run on ether now. I am at a loss here. Any opinions will help.

Well a little bit of a parts cannon. Just the cam and crank sensor really. Hoping these suction lines fix the issue

Do these have a torque rod like a peternilt air leaf suspension or freightliner air leaf that keeps the axle in line left to right? I see alot of them bend in Tandem dump truck duty from turning sharp on pavement with a shorter wheelbase truck.

Did you ever find a remedy to this problem? I am having the exact same issue.

That’s what i am going to do Monday. See what happens.

One bad eup should only cause a miss though, and it idles and runs good. So that points to the eup being fine and operational.

The speedo and tach worm, coolant temp and oil pressure work. The fuel gauge, pyro and oil and trans temp don’t work. All the lights work. I replaced the senders for the fuel tank and pyro and no change on the dash. Gauges still don’t do anything.

Once it’s running it’s idles smooth and runs good so although the eup wires could be an issue i don’t think so. Once in a while when i crank it shortly after i shut it off it fires a little then dies out and then catches itself and idles. Seems to help if i put the throttle to the floor for some reason. But that only if i had just shut it off minutes before.

My guess at this point is the suction side between the pump and tanks, that’s really all I haven’t replaced at this point. But was trying to rule any other odd problems out of there were any with this particular engine.

No rising oil level, had an external Leak at the primer pump but replaced pump since then. My next step is going to be replace the suction lines from the pump all the way to the tank. That’s really all I have left. Will check the wiring harness at the crank sensor. But the crank sensor itself is new.

There is an active fault code for egr mass flow. That and fuel sensor shorted high and egt probe shorted high. Both the sensor are new so wiring is bad somewhere but i think it may be the dash cluster. No codes for anything that would make it not start. Cam and crank sensor are new.

It spins really fast hot and cold. It’s nothing about being hot. It’s only when it sits. Overnight or 10 mins it doesn’t matter. Weird thing is it will just try to start at every key cycle. Like a quick couple cylinders fire but not quite enough. Cycle the key and it does it again but won’t start.

11.8 cranking. It’s got voltage and cranks really fast. Batteries are all new and everything voltage wise looks good.

Batteries are 12.4 and it cranks really good. Starts and runs all Day with just a little ether. It’s not a battery or power issue.

I just acquired a 2004 ch613 dump truck. Has the e7 with egr. Problem is that it won’t start without a little ether. Once it spins over just a little faster it fires right off and will run great. If you shut it off and let it sit more than 5 mins it won’t start again. Have replaced cam and crank sensor, fuel primer, fuel pump, return line check valve so far. Also on another not the fuel gauge, oil temp and pyro gauges won’t move or work at all. I put new sending units in all three with no change. When i unplug the dash cluster and then plug back in all the gauges sweep. Speedo and tack work, oil pressure and water temp work. Where do i start as far as those go?