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Air leaking out of bottom of this thing?


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I am at a bit of a loss.. i dont know how , truck off or  on has an effect, unless there is an electric over air switch..  Im sorry,  it is also 9:30 PM here and I need to hit the sack..  I will check back tomorrow...  jojo

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Now the damn leak is stopped. Its intermittent. Tried pumping brakes and park brake and dumping air tank and I cant get it to leak. But it will wait till another time then leak again. Guess I just need to try wait till its leaking then undo the hoses and see.

 

while its leaking I see all the brakes try come on for a couple seconds and while the brake rods are jumping in and out a bit that flap valve has aic coming out the bottom then it just stops leaking and brakes return to off.

 

no luck today for a fix as I cant hone in on the problem unless its leaking 

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Yup do what Genn sez disconect one by one hose

a leaking 'O' ring between the spring brake chambers will send  a bit of air to all spring brakes and also the valve where the air is delivered from

splash sum soapy water allover the  culprits

cya

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replacing all the brake chambers is a good idea,  maybe as you do it, perform the test that Glenn suggested, so that if you find the issue, you get the answer to the mystery, and the brakes have all new cans of equal quality..  good luck, Jojo

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I opened the box with new cans in it and the rods are a mile too long.  Even if i screw the eye all the way down to end of thread it would still be too long. See on my can pic above the rod barely sticks out of can before the eye and the eye is welded to rod with no threading visible its just plain rod. The new cans rods are threaded to within say 3 inches or so of cans. Will have to take them back and see if they can get shorter ones with welded on eye or threads that go all the way to can and cut excess off. Dang it. 

Thanks for the help. Will post back when i find the problem

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They need to be caged to cut to the correct length, or the brakes'll never work.  Are you sure there's not some issue with traction control or something ?  Seems odd it comes and goes with the key.  (if it even has traction control ?)  one thing for sure it's not a common set up for a 2004.  Maybe some pictures of the whole back of it from behind and looking down from in front of the drive axles ???  

Edited by Mark T
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Here is new 2024 cans. See how the thread doesnt allow the rod to become as short as the brakes on truck. I would have to cut the shaft right near can and weld the old eye on with only the weld holding and no threads. This makes me nervous. Im hoping to get shorter cans that look same from factory without me welding. They are MGM brand on truck

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the last pic, with brakes 'on' is the measurement you need to duplicate..it looks like pre-made brake chambers, with welded yokes..  he is right about not going passed 90 degree's..  my guess is the new maxis you have dont have threads all the way down to the service side housing??  

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if you have a good Mack parts guy, he can tell you what it was built with...  when major components are replaced, like the engine, tranny, and rears for example,, you need to use the serial number of the part and not the v.i.n.,,, just sayin'...jojo

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Old owner said that a previous haulage company that bought the truck new was pulling 2 trailers behind it and put a new motor in it around 2007 (different year engine i suspect due to weird wiring in behind dash along with the dash cluster from donor truck i suspect as theres abs light in dash but no abs i can see on truck)

its got the ea7470 motor with no polution gear or exhaust recirculation that i can see and has the powerleash brake i think as theres no spacer between tappet cover and heads.

its a grain tipper with sleeper cab.

 

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The mack dealers have no idea whats in it as their build sheet shows drum brakes all round and spring suspension. I had to ring meritor to find out what brake pads to suit as mack dealer send me drum brake shoes according to records with vin number.

 

 

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sir,,  with respect, I have to bow-out..  seems to me you have a home made truck, and the only way to get parts is like I said, with the component serial numbers..  and I am sure you will always have to remove the bad parts and take them with you, to the parts store..  I pray that you have NON-Mack parts store's that know what they are doing..  I suggest you record all of the data of of any data plate you find, ie: tranny/ engine/ rears/ axle housing's/ front axle beam/ steering box/  the v.i.n. on the frame rail/ the v.i.n. on the cab shell/  etc...  this effort will help you later on..  God Bless you sir.. Jojo

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