The Nitro

Hi, i have a bit of wobble on drivers side front wheel brake caliper, I have bought a slide pin and bush kit but don’t know where to start to replace the pins and bushes. Any help please? meritor dx195 caliper on mack vision 2006.

I’m tempted to just leave this new pump in the box and do another run in the truck on Friday and see what it does. I havn’t put any stop leak in the system but i have drained the coolant twice and the dealer done it as well in November 2022 and replaced with mack coolant each time but there is some copper specks and brown looking goo in the bottom tank so I think the old owner has put some in there. there is no filter in the large Y shaped radiator hose under the oil cooler as I replaced that hose once and it didnt have one in there soo i just replaced hose without it maybe 6 months ago.

Thanks Joey, I found some other brand pumps online for around $400 with 2 years warranty. looking at this box the pump came in today, its got a sticker saying i get a $220 refund when i send my old one back. Which brings it in line with other prices. my truck has the horton fan on it and there is no pulley on this remack pump either its got a nut on the end of the fan shaft but I’m not seeing any spline or keyway is the pulley a press fit onto this pump? Got any tips for swapping the pulleys onto the new pump? i have a 20 tonne press and a few pullers if needed. Do you heat the pulley up or is it just a cold press on ? thanks Joey

I had the water pump replaced in Nov 2022 at mack dealer due to bearing fail and they used a remack pump. i use the truck once a week to do a 120 km round trip to pick up 12 tonne of manure and bring it home. All has been going well untill i went to drive it yesterday. I saw the water level in top header tank was empty so i filled it with coolant and it immediately started leaking out the weep hole on water pump. I ran truck for 20 minutes and it was a slow constant dribble out the hole. I pulled the air bleed hose from top radiator hose to header tank off and cleaned it out with a brake cable inner wire and cordless drill as it was blocked again with some type of anti leak stuff it a very small line and blocks every now and then. So after running for 20 minutes or so the leak was still there. I called the dealer and asked if they had another pump and they sent one on a courier which i picked up this morning. im not sure whats going on as I did my usual trip yesterday and the pump leaked for the first 50km then stopped leaking? came home and still not leaking. Checked coolant level this morning and still full. so now I have the new $650 remack waterpump here in my hand but my trucks not leaking now but was yesterday. This is an exchange pump so the dealer will need my old pump back but I don’t even know wether to pull the pull the pump out and replace it or what to do. I mean if the rear bearing or seal is gone I can’t see how its fixed itself on a 50km run. my guess is that the seal is damaged and the stopleak in the system has temporarily repaired it or a piece of crap has somehow got underneath the seal and has now rubbed itself out on the trip yesterday. But not sure. advice?? $650 is a lot of money for me what would you do in this situation guys thanks

Old owner handed me a stack of receipts that he had spent on it an inch thick. Poor guy went bankrupt with the amount of $$ in receipts he spent in the few years he had it. Its a nice truck to drive, everything feels tight, gearbox steering etc for its age

When I bought the truck the roads traffic authority told me the gvm had been upgraded in this truck. Old owner told me that 2 owners before him had been pulling 2 trailers with it up in queensland doing roadworks and they had 2 trucks the same with sleepercabs for the guys to take a kip as they sometimes had to wait hrs at night while they were doimg roads. Dont know full history but thats what i was told

Im also thinking its the wrong bolt. Unless it been rattling about in there for soo long its perfectly removed all signs of edge chamfer along with number stamps

Looks like I’m going to get out of this for about $50 of parts and sealant and a bit of my time. Could of been a lot worse if I’d of took it to a shop. I’m pretty happy about that!!

Mack dealer rang back, said volvo have the capscrew in stock but not the washer and Its an overnight deal. Ordered it and 2 new axle gaskets. He asked if i wanted the hub seals too. His build sheet shows spider hubs and drum brakes for my truck but its had later model (2006) disc brakes axles fitted on rears and steer instead so no seals there to replace.

Ive got the mack dealer chasing up to see how long it would take to get the right bolt. Or wether I could just go to bolt shop and see what they have. Its got LE12.9 stamped on bolt head. Not sure if its something special or just a usual grade 12 bolt I think its a part number 46 x 1275 capscrew in the parts catalog for a 46 160 rear with the 3200 T1892 carrier. I am seeing a couple feint lines on bearing thats exposed. That tells me the shell has rotated in cap acouple times. The parts diagram online i found shows a meritor glue for the shell to cap and I’m guessing whoever was in here last forgot the glue maybe. and after I have cleaned up the broken bolt head, it’s looking like its glued to the magnet that was sitting in there that is supposed to be stuck on bung. Wtf?? Took a bit of force to get it off. I’m trying to picture the old guy I bought it off (who didn’t look ya in the eye much while I asked him questions pre sale….) I’m almost picturing him under there with some petrol or solvent and a syringe or can of brake cleaner working through the bung hole like a proctologist and maybe tried to glue the bolt head to the magnet rather than taking pumpkin out to fix it, I dunno. Hahaha I kind of like the idea but at the same time I dont like the idea if you know what i mean lol. anyway, will chase up the bolt and maybe the glue

I have not touched the other cap bolts or bearing adjuster. I have marked the bearing adjuster before i took the cap off, plan was to back it off before refitting cap and tightening back to where it was and seeing how that felt. There was blue silicone on pumpkin bolt threads and the flange so someone may have been in here. I was thinking maybe the bolt was overtightened perhaps.

That’s all I can do today, will try find a bolt tomorrow. thanks for the help guys so far.

Wheel lug nut cracker to the rescue!! had to cut the 32mm socket in half to get it to grab but meh, I’m up almost a grand today already in saved labour hahaha.

My fun has came to the end. My 3/4 impact wrench wont budge these 2 bolts

Worked!! next trick is to take the big cap thing off, maybe mark it and try get bolt all the way out

Cut a nut in half and welded to broken bolt. Will see if I’m lucky or not

Soon as I shovel some crap off my workbench lol

Going to try weld a nut onto that broken bolt and see if I can get it out somehow

Ok found the missing bolt head and washer. cogs look ok to my rookie eye?

Out

Nearly there, I caged the fork in full length of that cage bolt. Pumpkin didnt want to come forward without yolk caged.

The problem is I’m taking pumpkin out and taking it to myself to be repaired lol.

Ok, well im already pulling the pumpkin out so maybe I could put the fork in right spot and do the caging bolt thing before i put pumpkin back in?

Should i put axle back in?