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My B61 Project


pennsyjeff

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Hey everyone, thanks for all the interest and nice comments.....I will get more pictures on when I can, I have a few in my gallery of the truck when I got it and when I sand blasted the frame. The engine went in pretty smooth, I had to remove the oil pan to get the clearance over the front cross member. There are alot of things I am learning as I go, I used the original quad box tranny and push type double disc clutch (series 50). There was an interference problem with the newer engine flywheel housing and the old dish type flywheel that I used. I had to grind some off the lower portion of the housing to let the flywheel turn, it hit at first and kept the motor from turning....that was no good, but I am past that now... I had to build my front motor mount, I used part of the old mount and part of the newer style and welded the two of them together.....if any of you have questions or if anyone else has done this very same install, let me know I have some questions and I am more than willing to help if anyone needs something answered...I will try to help...

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:mack1:

Hey everyone, thanks for all the interest and nice comments.....I will get more pictures on when I can, I have a few in my gallery of the truck when I got it and when I sand blasted the frame. The engine went in pretty smooth, I had to remove the oil pan to get the clearance over the front cross member. There are alot of things I am learning as I go, I used the original quad box tranny and push type double disc clutch (series 50). There was an interference problem with the newer engine flywheel housing and the old dish type flywheel that I used. I had to grind some off the lower portion of the housing to let the flywheel turn, it hit at first and kept the motor from turning....that was no good, but I am past that now... I had to build my front motor mount, I used part of the old mount and part of the newer style and welded the two of them together.....if any of you have questions or if anyone else has done this very same install, let me know I have some questions and I am more than willing to help if anyone needs something answered...I will try to help...

Did you also change to the old style short water pump? and the short crankshaft hub? If you did not things will not clear. On the water pump i forgot if you have to change the housing too. Terry

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:mack1:

Did you also change to the old style short water pump? and the short crankshaft hub? If you did not things will not clear. On the water pump i forgot if you have to change the housing too. Terry

Yes, I changed both.......I changed the complete water pump, also had to drill out the housing on the tranny from 3/8 bolts to the newer 7/16, but the pattern was the same...

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Hey everyone, thanks for all the interest and nice comments.....I will get more pictures on when I can, I have a few in my gallery of the truck when I got it and when I sand blasted the frame. The engine went in pretty smooth, I had to remove the oil pan to get the clearance over the front cross member. There are alot of things I am learning as I go, I used the original quad box tranny and push type double disc clutch (series 50). There was an interference problem with the newer engine flywheel housing and the old dish type flywheel that I used. I had to grind some off the lower portion of the housing to let the flywheel turn, it hit at first and kept the motor from turning....that was no good, but I am past that now... I had to build my front motor mount, I used part of the old mount and part of the newer style and welded the two of them together.....if any of you have questions or if anyone else has done this very same install, let me know I have some questions and I am more than willing to help if anyone needs something answered...I will try to help...

I assume that you are not going to work the truck? I am in no way trying to burst anyones bubble, but a Duplex,Triplex or Quadraplex will not hold up to a Maxidyne's torque under heavy loads. By the look of the truck I don't think you are going to work it. Just don't want to see happen to you, what I have seen before.

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I assume that you are not going to work the truck? I am in no way trying to burst anyones bubble, but a Duplex,Triplex or Quadraplex will not hold up to a Maxidyne's torque under heavy loads. By the look of the truck I don't think you are going to work it. Just don't want to see happen to you, what I have seen before.

No, I won't be working the truck, thanks for your concern, I know what you are saying. I have some old caterpillar tractors that I want to haul to shows and that is all I will be hauling with it. An occasional sunday drive..........

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Hey guys, just thought I would give a little update on the progress. The front balancer, fan, alternator and belts are on and aligned. The radiator is on and also for everyones future reference, the radiator support rods that run from the fire wall to the radiator are on, and clear the pipe going from the turbo to the aftercooler by less than 1/4".......I knew they would be close and they are. The starter is on and the solenoid has to go up, and located right against the cyl block, as the linkage for the foot pedal will hit if not. The solenoid can not go down because you can't get the bottom starter bolt in and if you turn it away from the block slightly in the down position, it hits the steering box. You also have to make sure the ground post on the back of the starter is toward the block, (approx 9 o'clock) if it is at 3 o'clock the oil filters will hit...If I had to do it over again, I think I would use my old flywheel housing from my 711....oh well, it is coming, I will give more updates and maybe in the next few days I will take more pictures.......

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It's looking good !! I know what you run into with starter. We put a 237 in place of our 673 and thought we would use the 673 flywheel housing to keep things simple as we had to change flywheel and clutch to use our tanns. WRONG !! The starter won't fit alongside the pan. The 673 pan has a slite taper for starter clearance and the Maxidyne don't. Also, the spin-on oil filters and steering box on the B-75 collide. Had to use Baldwin B-75 ( yes,B-75 is the Baldwin # !! ) because they are shorter and clear the steering box. We used our front mount from our 673 and put it on the 237. Your's would'nt work ?? Keep the photos coming . John

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Could you just put the 673 pan on the 237 so the starter will fit? Or is there something that would restrict that? Or is swapping the pans a pain? I was thinking the 673C motor(250 hp version), if I could find one cheap and maybe freshen it up.

Just a thought...since maybe when hell freezes over I "might" ever get to put a bigger motor in my B.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Could you just put the 673 pan on the 237 so the starter will fit? Or is there something that would restrict that? Or is swapping the pans a pain? I was thinking the 673C motor(250 hp version), if I could find one cheap and maybe freshen it up.

Just a thought...since maybe when hell freezes over I "might" ever get to put a bigger motor in my B.

Larry, I think the pan will bolt up all right , but we just put new gaskets and painted the new pan and if I remember right.. I think the pick-up for the oil pump was a little different. John

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Hi everyone, thought I would give another short update on the project.... The radiator is on, bottom radiator hose is connected, had to get a top rad hose that was 2" on the thermostat hsg end and 2.25" on the radiator end, which is done. Will get the heater hoses hooked up tomorrow, fabricated and made up the fuel lines, bled the fuel system and she runs well.....The exhaust is partially done, the 45 off the turbo is hooked up and I connected a piece of flex to get it out the bottom of the truck just to start it..The one thing that was a little difficult was the fuel pedal linkage.... on the b model, when the rod goes toward the rear, that is full throttle, well the newer fuel system was just the opposite!!!!when you pull back on the lever on the fuel system, that was idle, shove ahead and that was full fuel. I removed the lever off the fuel system, and installed it on the opposite side of the throttle shaft (toward the block) and installed it pointing down so the action is just the opposite...hard to explain but I will get a photo and put it on here so you can see...now it works well. I will keep the updates coming..

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Beautiful project! Here in New Egypt NJ a good friend of mine had a 1964 B61 tandem with I think a 711 at first hooked up to a quad box, then a 237 and finally a 300 (289) still hooked up to the 18 speed quad box. He ran mostly asphalt (grossing at 70,000) and usually didn't let his other drivers use it, just him. Never had any trouble with the trans probably because he drove it himself. I always wondered how that little radiator could keep that big hot engine cool but it did. LOL on that beautiful truck!

Ain't a Mack? Take it back!

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looks good.. i like that intercooler / aftercooler on the intake..... i tought all the mack trans had triple countershafts..mummn i guess i was mistaken..is that just the later 13 and 18speed mack trans?... so how much power can my old quadraplex take?....i definately will want to upgrade then as i plan to be able to work mine when done...mummn..and have a lot of power... looks liek i have to swap a e7 and its regular tran in then or find a e9 or use the cat 3406 b...mumnn then radiator problems maybe... mummn too much $ argh my wallet is hurting now just thinking of it..hehe

but yours looks really really nice. i likethepaint etc.

thanks deo

Keep on keeping on...

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I forgot to mention one of the most, if not thee most important thing that is necessary in order to get one of these B models restored, (for you guys with families) is a spouse that is extremely understanding and can appreciate your dream of tooling down the road in one of these great old trucks....which I am extremely lucky to have...

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I forgot to mention...

i have to ditto that , and if my significant other had any idea of the money i was spending she'd likely have me committed. where did you get the top radiator hose? #'s??? i went with a cable throttle, not crazy about it but it's done. sounds like you'll be "tooling down the road" way ahead of me. i wouldn't worry about the q-box, one of the locals has an old DM tri axel with a 300+ and a q-box, he's been running the truck for 15 years and many 20+ ton loads later. i'm sure if it gave him too much grief it would have been changed long ago. the torque figures look awful and plenty of them have come apart, but a little TLC and you shouldn't have any trouble. keep up the good work. scott

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I forgot to mention...

i have to ditto that , and if my significant other had any idea of the money i was spending she'd likely have me committed. where did you get the top radiator hose? #'s??? i went with a cable throttle, not crazy about it but it's done. sounds like you'll be "tooling down the road" way ahead of me. i wouldn't worry about the q-box, one of the locals has an old DM tri axel with a 300+ and a q-box, he's been running the truck for 15 years and many 20+ ton loads later. i'm sure if it gave him too much grief it would have been changed long ago. the torque figures look awful and plenty of them have come apart, but a little TLC and you shouldn't have any trouble. keep up the good work. scott

I have a 300+ in mine, i bought an R model top radiator hose at the mack dealer cut it down to fit. Ron

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I forgot to mention...

i have to ditto that , and if my significant other had any idea of the money i was spending she'd likely have me committed. where did you get the top radiator hose? #'s??? i went with a cable throttle, not crazy about it but it's done. sounds like you'll be "tooling down the road" way ahead of me. i wouldn't worry about the q-box, one of the locals has an old DM tri axel with a 300+ and a q-box, he's been running the truck for 15 years and many 20+ ton loads later. i'm sure if it gave him too much grief it would have been changed long ago. the torque figures look awful and plenty of them have come apart, but a little TLC and you shouldn't have any trouble. keep up the good work. scott

Scott, I got mine thru a local truck/auto parts store. I can get you the part # but it is home right now, it was 2" on one end and 2 1/4" on the other end..It was 15" long which was a little excessive but it worked, it was a coiled type so I could bend it to make it work...I will get the # and put it on here so you can order one. It cost me about $20....thanks, Jeff.

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