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therabbittree

Porch Pup
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Everything posted by therabbittree

  1. http://m.truckinginfo.com/news/266073/volvo-mack-to-discontinue-16-liter-diesel-engine-product-immediately?utm_campaign=Headline-News-20170124&utm_source=Email&utm_medium=Enewsletter&omhide=true&omid=1000539739
  2. http://m.truckinginfo.com/news/266073/volvo-mack-to-discontinue-16-liter-diesel-engine-product-immediately?utm_campaign=Headline-News-20170124&utm_source=Email&utm_medium=Enewsletter&omhide=true&omid=1000539739 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Looks Sharp, - How is the cab?, rot?, cracks? doors have issues? door locks work correctly?, cracks etc? air ride cab? - single or double frame? - what type of wet line? Air pto? - Miles on truck, miles on major components? - weight? - Wheel base? - axle ratings on truck and extra rear set? - see dash is open, how is A/C? Fans? etc Where in Canada are you? Thanks, Deo
  4. Price? lightweight? dual steering boxes? Where? Amy help coming back across border to NY? Thanks, Deo
  5. sounds more like a $5000 truck if that
  6. Miro, the N14 idea sounds neat.. I was checking out a B73 and figured if the NH855 already fit the other cummins would also fit... as i have a friend with a few extra 855's i think they were all high flow. either way looks like th ebest bet to have cummins 855 and big power would be to swap the trans out too.. lots of work..might pass on this truck ... looking for a truck i can swap to a dump body on and off, possible quick change set up..so a triaxle tractor would be best... liked the heavy specs, as gross weigh with dump trailer would be upwards of.. 107k gross with permit.. for local dump t
  7. Like the title says, any input on a big cam4 in a B73?..the radiator should cool fine..issue may be the trans holding ?...looking at a 20 speed quad box.. Any infor or advice would be great!. Thanks, Deo
  8. What rears weight and ratio?, what frame, hows thetrans?, whats the weight?..what mpg pulling what? what wheel base?, and what color interior?, how are the doors and cab , wear and rot wise...?? Looks great in your photo. Thanks, Deo
  9. Still available?, what year E7 did you have it on?..how did it work for you?..what power? Thanks, Deo
  10. Yeah some of the TV stuff gets really exaggerated... gets anonying some times..but it sure beats dancing with the stars or the american idol crap..I can't take that lol..and I am not a sports fan so its either real work, a book, or some TV I DVRed and can play when I get soem free time. Oh and I'll be a Macungie too ha. see you gys there.
  11. yep I got it going today. Cutting the old mess of wires out solved my problem. The junction box worked out great. I appreciate the help. Now I want to wire all the roof lights together instead of the middle 3 and outer two being separated. Not sure why mack does it like that. I also noticed the rear clearance lights don't blink with the courtesy switch. I want to get that straightened out too. Thanks, Deo
  12. The batteries are not corroded. I had cleaned and used the battery protectant on them already. This truck is a 1996, not a 2000, maybe the forum posted your reply in my thread by accident? Cleaning the battery terminals wouldn't help correct the problem I had. I've yet to seea RD mack with the 4 batteries under the hood. Thanks, Deo
  13. Well, after being sick for almost 2 weeks i finally got to mess with the truck a little today. I replaced the Headlight switch, courtesy switch, dimming switch, all the pertainent relays, the pertainent breakers. I cut out the old spliced rear light harness. I added a junction box in the rear with the trucks "factory 4 wire rear harness" in and 7 wire out to the trailer connection. The breaker / relay will not trip now. and the forawrd lights work correctly, so i think the problem was in the old spliced harness i cut out. But I haven't hooked the rear lights up, as I ran out of eyelets.
  14. Good News!!!.. This hasn't been reported on yet. I work for the DEC and I just found the news here ha... figures.. but its GOOD news.. Thanks, Happy New Year! Deo
  15. Thanks for the replies so far. Every littel bit helps, Especailly when your frezzing and burnt out toubleshooting. When the headlight switch is up nothing happens to the tail lights. But they work fine for stop, turn and hazard, and the reverse lights also. I haven't closed everything up yet as I have a license plate light and 3 little marker lights to run off the tail lamp wiring when I can figure out which one is the tail / clearance light wire. There is no guide for the breakers on the back of the glove box door. Although, some of the relays are marked on the breaker
  16. I just came inside for a break from the cold and to check the forum. The head lights come on and stay on when the breaker trips. When the headlights are on, the 3 middle roof lights stay off. The outer clearance lights only come on with the clearance light switch. I just took the center console down and the overhead wires look "ok" nothing obvious. I changed the dash light bulbs and nothing. No power at the dash bulb connectors. I raised the dump body and followed the tail light harness forward and didn't see and crushed or pinched areas. I couldn't see well under the cab but the tail harness
  17. Ok I'm working on a 1996 Rd688. The truck has a few electrical issues. I don't have any wiring diagrams. The breakers, and relays are not marked as to what breaker and relay does what. The first problem is: when the head light switch is turned on, the headlamps come on but a breaker or relay immediately trips, and the tail lamps /clearnace lights will not light up? Seems like a short some where in the wiring. I checked the easy spots and no breaks or cut wires were found. I changed the Courtesy light to a new one also. I added new led lights in the rear and have working brake, stop, turn, and
  18. I'm working on a 1996 Rd688 if you move the heat control lever to any setting the outside air vent opens. Is this normal? Seems like you would want it closed for heat? and want it closed for A/C recirculate in the summer. Thanks, Deo
  19. I've been working on a '96 Mack Rd688 it has a power steering reservior with 3 ports. 1 large and two small. The two small ports are the returns. One small port is in the bottom center, it flows into the filter in the reservoir. The second is angled at a 45 and flows into the reservoir. My question is which return goes where? Currently I have the center port (into the filter) returning from the pump, & the angled port returning from the steering box. After filling the reservoir and running it, it has no power steering. It has been awhile since I tore the system apart. I should have wrote d
  20. The Pelletiers in Millinocket bought two for the new titans.. they had them on the TV show American Loggers on Discovery Channel. The new trucks seemed to pull the big loads well so far.. The show just mentioned them last episode. I'm still nervous about the electrical gremlins the other volvoized Macks have had.. The new emissions are pretty scary... Any one know of any other Titans working ? and if they are having any problems with them? Thanks, Deo http://www.geraldpelletierlogging.com got to photos and schrool down you can see one of the new Titans
  21. if any one needs some one to look at teh truck for you if its still available.. Im not far from peekskill and I would be happy to check it out. Let me know, thanks Deo
  22. damn my B81 has 9.02 rears argh i bet 38 would be pushing it ..ha later Deo
  23. yeah ..take the aneroid off and scribe a line at the foward end of the fuel plate marking its position, then slide the fuel plate forward a little tiny bit ( you can experimnet with it full forward etc), then bolt the aneroid back on. Thats how we do it on the dodges with that pump and I bet you can do the same on a e9 if it has p7100 style pump. you will see a big improvement in power. you can see the fuel plate here http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=182 this explains it a little better http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/power_p7100.htm I hope this helps and You need egt gauges
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