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Detroit computer tuning


2000CL713
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I'm sure this is a long shot but I dont really belong to many other trucking sites other then this one since I have always mostly owned Mack's and still do (no worries my Mack's are not going anywhere lol) but I might be having a truck with a Detroit 60 series 11.1L joining the fleet soon depending how things go sunday. It's a 99 if that matters. But I'm wanting to turn it up. Enough to keep up with at least my 427hp CL. I'm sure it wont keep up with the 490hp CL. So I'm in need of a person that can program these Detroits. Does anyone know from belonging to other truck sites who the go to guy is for them?

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There is a factory program for DDEC 3s Gets. 430hp/1550tq. Gives power and fuel economy . Check with DD shop in your area. I would get the DD shop reprogram, the PDI stuff is to costly for a work truck plus a DD reflash is 50 state legal.

Performance Diesel out of Saint George Utah  has big power ECM up grades, turbo up grades and such but just their ECM starts at around  $3000

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"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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Yea that's way tomuch to spend lol I can swap in a 12.7 in the dam thing for 3k lol I'm also in FL so dont need to deal with emissions nor will it be leaving the state. It's just a dumptruck. Most I go is an hr away from town. Dont want to swap any parts either. Dont mind doing small things but high dollar parts I want to stay away from. A better exhaust manifold and better flowing exhaust (mufflers) is fine to do. This truck had an 18spd swapped into it and it came from the factory with dual outside air cleaners and dual exhaust. FLD120 series of truck. 

 

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<1> wen lookn @ a 2nd hand truck drain the air tanks n C how much oil is left on the ground

then offer a lower figure

<2> lower horsepower is not all th@ bad

it all depends on the driver to get the power to the gound n the method of shiting the 18

cya

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On 11/1/2019 at 10:00 AM, david wild said:

Did you try to close the doors yet.

You can’t mistake the FLD closure rattle Lol.

When I worked for the fleet.....guys up here often complained, during the zero-subs, about the wind blowing through one door seal of our FLD’s and out the other door during a cross-wind. In sunny ☀️ Florida it will feel refreshing! 

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lmao if it beats the rattling of my 20 year old CLs and the all the plastic that keeps breaking that i have to keep sourcing parts for which isnt no easy task on its own, i have be came very good friends with the parts people at watts LOL but if the FLD can beat all those problems then ill have to give it credit lol 

the inside of this truck has been redone and taken care of tho  

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I've had all too much experience with Freightliner "cross cab ventilation", in a blizzard you could see the snow blow right through the cab! Those cabs were so flimsy that a hit in just one corner would tweak the whole cab out of shape, and I've seen a mirror get hooked on something solid and the door would be bent all outa shape while the steel mirror bracket was fine. Those old Freightliners fell apart fast enough on the highway, I don't think they'd survive off road for long!

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trust me, i spent the last 8 months looking for a mack i like that would be in the price range im wanting to spend but sadly there all beat to shit and back and no one really takes care of them bc the aftermarket really sucks for macks. plus alot of them are company/driver spec trucks which i dont want bc 1 there not setup the way i like them and 2 lets be honest, no one really wants a truck that had 3 dozen diff drivers. im not about to go down that worm whole, 

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Well I ended up getting the truck. It's very solid truck. Not a spec of rust on the frame or anything. It was mostly used for asphalt work which in FL that the easiest work on a dumptruck by far so it wasnt beat to death. Very well taken care of as you can see from the inside pictures. The paint is original from 1999 so yes being in FL for 21 years its showing its age. Going to have it repainted the factory color. And I'm going to go front to back and do a full maintenance job on her. All new tires and fluids and brakes and belts and hoses. Weather it needs it or not. Just so I know it's all new and a good base to start with. All the rear bushing had been replaced already to ploy a year ago so that's done. And going to run the rack on her. Has full brand new exhaust as well. Come next winter I'm going to straight pipe it with dual 6in stacks. Already talked with the company that makes them. Motor has been rebuilt and have all the paperwork. Going to have it turned up to 430hp/1550tq. Talked with the programming people. Its original 385hp from the factory. Non-egr motor. She pulls very good and no problems or anything in the 3hr ride home. Got her up to 76mph (gps checked as well) without much effort. She just wanted to keep pulling. 

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I haven't really done much with Detroit motors. Have drove them in the passed as a driver but never owned one myself. Just Cat/Cummings and of course many many Mack's lol but I'm wanting to fine a 12.7 to start collecting parts for a rebuild. Just normal for me to do since with my older CLs you basically have to stock pile parts nowadays since they are hard to find. With that being said does anyone know what year is the best to get in a 12.7 Detroit? Want one with no emissions or egr. But has to have the piston cooling nozzles and be a direct drop into my 1999 frightliner. I know I can use my block but it doesnt have the cooling nozzles and would need a new crank. Just not worth the trouble. Rather just start with a 12.7 with those features. Plus its nice to have extra parts since so many parts are interchangeable.

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