Coenut Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 I'm getting ready to reskin the roof on my r model. My question is do I need to cross race the cab to keep it from twisting once the roof skin is removed. The doors are off the truck so all that weight is removed. I've done several hot rod chops and have always braced them but there seems to be quite a bit of structural steel around the doors connecting front and rear panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex g Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 I've never done one before but my 2 cents would be to brace it now and save the headache. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve p Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 (edited) no need to brace it ,I have replaced many r model roofs over the years .I did my panel beating apprenticeship repairing b& r models in the early 70's .you need to drill 1/4"holes every 1 1/4" and plug weld if you don't have a spotwelder Edited June 19, 2016 by steve p added more info 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keg1 Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 I didn't brace mine and I had the back panel off at the same time. Even with everything off it was still pretty solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 Same here ...no need to brace it...I drilled out all the spot welds, removed the roof and installed new rain gutters around the rear of the cab. the front was still good. I used the 3M panel bond so no messing with re welding it. so far so good.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coenut Posted June 20, 2016 Author Share Posted June 20, 2016 Are the rear rain gutters still available? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 22 hours ago, Lmackattack said: Same here ...no need to brace it...I drilled out all the spot welds, removed the roof and installed new rain gutters around the rear of the cab. the front was still good. I used the 3M panel bond so no messing with re welding it. so far so good.. I am some slow so tell me what you say some more.3Mpanel bond.Is that saying its glued on instead of welding?I know there is some good stuff out there. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 2 hours ago, theakerstwo said: I am some slow so tell me what you say some more.3Mpanel bond.Is that saying its glued on instead of welding?I know there is some good stuff out there. Thats right Glen. After I drilled all the welds out of the old roof skin it came off and I saw the rain rail / gutter had some rot in it. So I then removed the rain rails and installed new ones by simply gluing them to the cab. I used the new roof skin for a guide when installing the rain rails. The roof skin simply lays in the bottom of the rain rails so it worked good for a guide. After the rain rail dried over night I went and glued the roof skin to the new rain rails. I think it was called 3M panel bond. its what they use to glue these new cars together. They claim that the glue is stronger than the metal? the metal will tear before the glue lets go? It was much more easy to glue the new parts on than to spot weld. I also went and sprayed a 3M rust sealant in the A pillars and cab corners while the roof was off. Hope to slow any rust that cant bee seen between metal panels. Trent 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keg1 Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 I glued mine on also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 Thats good to know and i have used the 3m bond.Rob Swallows told me about it and last year i repair the hinge area on my RW.I believe its strong as metal.Good thing about it is you can buy it with different cure time and working time. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve p Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 I hate to rain on everyone but if you use panel bond 'YOU MUST BE METICULOUS IN YOUR PREPERATION ' any contamination will yield a substandard adhesion .did you prep the surface correctly as per the tds did you handle the part after prepping with bare hands ,oil from your skin will yield a substandard bond , you must wear new gloves everytime ,temperature will affect adhesion ,remember this part is still a structural member .there is lot more than just sticking bits together .as I said earlier on this post this my trade and I like to see things done correctly ,at the end of the day the choose is yours how you do things. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coenut Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 I do plan on doing a hundred or so spot welds. I've seen the demonstrations and I'm not quite convinced enough to go ahead spend the cash on the epoxy and special gun when I have a welder on hand. A friend used the 3m epoxy to attach a hood scoop on his pu. Why he didn't use 3m double sided tape is beyond me but anyways the scoop wasn't on long. Not to be mean but I'm glad it didn't hold, the scoop downright wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Mack Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 anyone here tried Sikaflex 252..?? used to glue bus body panels to the framework...!!! I think it is used on truck bodies too BC Mack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41chevy Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 (edited) On 6/20/2016 at 8:32 PM, theakerstwo said: I am some slow so tell me what you say some more.3Mpanel bond.Is that saying its glued on instead of welding?I know there is some good stuff out there. The 2015 Ram Chassis I bought is almost all "glued together". Hood to hood brace, inner fenders to outer skin, door skins to door frames, roof to cab. Floor, door jambs back panel and firewall are welded. many vehicle makers have been using it since the mid 2000's and the aircraft industry has been using a similar system since the late, late 1990's. Edited June 22, 2016 by 41chevy Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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