Red Horse Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Guys I need some opinions. My '56 B-61X has the original dump hoist on it. No clue as to brand but I have top believe it was installed when chassis was new. A couple of years ago I installed a new 6/8 yard galion but kept the hoist.As you can see it is old school with no separate oil reservoir-everything is contained in the hoist cylinder. Problem is it leaks. I have tried tightening that big packing nut on end but that doesn't seem to help. Someone has suggested there is probably a big gasket on that end plate.Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlotpilot Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 THERE IS A REVERSE WIPER-SEAL INSIDE THE COVER PLATE WHICH HAS WORN-DRIED OUT PROBABLY FROM AGE .THE HOIST WILL HAVE TO COME APART AND BE RESEALED TO EFFECTIVELY STOP THE LEAK. POSSIBLY SOME WORK ON THE CYL ROD ALSO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j hancock Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 If it is hydraulic, try these guys. Might take a day or two but they always seem to have the parts.http://www.nh-hydraulics.com/ Quote JimIt doesn't cost anything to pay attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdog2 Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Galion goodwin been in business 140 years they have web site Messer of Westbrook ME.is a dist. Next your going to have a barn party for a swap out. Quote Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhead204 Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 given the age and style of that unit I will bet that it uses leather cup seals or leather chevron packing. The rod seals I'd bet are chevron and could be replaced with out removal of the rod assembly. you should be able to block the box up then release hyd.pressure then back off the packing nut measure the shaft and bore dia. then get some chevron or pump packing install into bore and tighten the nut until leak quits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Horse Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 Guys- thx for your comments- I hate the thought of pulling that heavy unit out. I assume those big lugs on that end cover are used for spinning off?Gearhead- you saying just the packing nut? Or the end cover too.EJ- Let me tell you about Galion/Godwin. As I was going to utilize the old hoist, I contacted them and asked for a drawing of the box. When the body was delivered I get under it (its at my pal's shop sitting on a heavy 4 wheel platform cart about 3' off ground- perfect) Drawing does not come close to "as built". In any case after a lot of measuring I come up with what needs to be done to modify and we do it and success-it goes up and comes down-flat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdog2 Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 I just change the one in 2001 RD mailhot Conn price 5000.00 plus tax Donovan New Hampshire 2300.00 no tax and a nice scenic ride for me and the boys. Quote Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdog2 Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 I just change the one in 2001 RD mailhot brand Conn price 5000.00 plus tax Donovan New Hampshire 2300.00 no tax and a nice scenic ride for me and the boys.Donovan is also dist in Londonderry NH Quote Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maddog13407 Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 most bigger hydraulic shop have a big vise type thing to mount the cylinder in and all sorts of adapters for the end caps to spin them off. I know at work we have had many rebuilt on cat and John deere loaders. have done them ourselves to but most of the threads for the packin nuts have really really good locktight on them that has to be heated with a rosebud to take it loose. the big shops usually have a machine to mount and spin the end cap off with. usually like they said a wiper seal or a series of O rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhead204 Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 just the packing nut no need to remove the big plate , if the oil leak is from around the shaft this should fix it .if chevron packing cut the packing at a 45 then install into the bore then cut the next piece rotate cut lines 180 from the first one then re install packing nut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stacksuperdog Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 Bob it look like they still use the same Pistons today according to their website. Check price of new vs rebuilt. In our case it wS cheaper to buy new 1 Quote Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Horse Posted October 6, 2014 Author Share Posted October 6, 2014 just the packing nut no need to remove the big plate , if the oil leak is from around the shaft this should fix it .if chevron packing cut the packing at a 45 then install into the bore then cut the next piece rotate cut lines 180 from the first one then re install packing nutSo these packings are available as a "generic" product-just spec rod diameter?Bob it look like they still use the same Pistons today according to their website. Check price of new vs rebuilt. In our case it wS cheaper to buy newMatt, I don't think anyone uses a tankless system today..correct me if I'm wrong-and like I said originally- think this hoist is of 1956 vintage. No clue as to who made it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhead204 Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 most of the vintage stuff is pretty generic the question is will it be a cup seal or chevron ? if a cup you will have to remove the end cap as well to access the seal. as I said before raise and securely block the bed/hoist then remove hyd. pressure by moving the raise / lower lever with the pto disengaged several times once this is done the cyl. rod should be loose on the mounting pins , then loosen the packing nut and remove then with a seal pick and flash lite gently dig at the seal. if it is chevron it should move without too much effort (depending how much rust is present in the bore) if there is a significant amount of thread on the packing nut would also make me think its a packing gland (like chevron or pump packing) if less than a 1 in. of thread most likely a cup seal style and the end cap most likely will have to be removed to fix the leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Horse Posted October 7, 2014 Author Share Posted October 7, 2014 most of the vintage stuff is pretty generic the question is will it be a cup seal or chevron ? if a cup you will have to remove the end cap as well to access the seal. as I said before raise and securely block the bed/hoist then remove hyd. pressure by moving the raise / lower lever with the pto disengaged several times once this is done the cyl. rod should be loose on the mounting pins , then loosen the packing nut and remove then with a seal pick and flash lite gently dig at the seal. if it is chevron it should move without too much effort (depending how much rust is present in the bore) if there is a significant amount of thread on the packing nut would also make me think its a packing gland (like chevron or pump packing) if less than a 1 in. of thread most likely a cup seal style and the end cap most likely will have to be removed to fix the leak.Thx I guess I should start by cleaning the cylinder to confirm weep is on the rod vs end cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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