ENDT-673C LuberFiner Gasket

[doubleclutchinweasel]

So, from my research so far, it LOOKS like you remove the existing oil pressure relief valve assembly, and bolt on the different one with the tall "neck" on it. Then, the filter adapter bolts to the top of that "neck".

After that, it's just a matter of connecting things.

So, looks like it would be very important to have the correct pressure relief assembly, to line up with the correct number of holes in the block. Right gasket would probably help, too.

Looking at my pictures, I can see where part of the lines go. But, it's raining outside right now, and I don't want to get wet looking around. I assume the line coming off the oil cooler is the supply to the filter. The other large line off the filter goes into the pressure regulator. The small center line off the filter appears to be the bypass return line, and goes into the block (or pan), and drains straight into the pan.

i think I can see the turbo feed line coming off the RH side of the regulator block. And, the oil pressure gage line appears to be right next to it.

There is another larger line, on the LH side of the pressure regulator block. In the pictures, I can't see exactly where that line goes. I think it would be inportant to know, however, since that is one of the lines which appears to go bye-bye when you put the different regulator body on there.

I'll doctor those pictures, and see if anybody can give me more info.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

Here are a couple of shots with arrows to the various lines. Maybe this will jog some memories as to what goes where, and why...

[Freightrain]

Yes, take the four bolts out of that housing(pressure relief) and completely remove it. The spin on system will bolt to that surface. This eliminates the three lines(two big, one small). I can't see from the pics well enough but the oil comes out of housing, to the filter, from the filter to the cooler and then?? I can't see the cooler well enough(and my books are at home).

I think your IN/OUT lines are backwards. Have to look at book to confirm. I think your "UNKNOW" line comes from cooler and back into engine to feed the galleys. OR, the fact the oil comes out of the front fitting and goes to cooler, then filter and back to block.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

And, here is a different pressure regulator block from the PAI website. I am assuming this is the type one would use.

Also a picture of their oil filter adapter.

Can't tell what would happen with that "unknown" line, above.

From their pictures, it almost looks like there is one regulator piston in the block and another in the filter adapter unit.

[Freightrain]

No, should only be one relief, in that housing.

Pretty sure that unknown line is coming from oil cooler.

My spin on adapter had the top portion bolted on, where the pic you show is just the lower portion.

Basically the oil comes from the engine block at the lowest area of the relief block(basically because the pump is bringing it up from the pan). Then it goes through relief, then the filters(or visa versa), then back into the block to feed the oil galleys. The spin on adapter also will have an oil fitting for your turbo just like your current model.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

From the looks of the PAI drawings, the 2 lines on top of my relief block MIGHT go to the top of the filter adapter? If so, they use a different manifold arrangement (3 bolts instead of 4).

I wonder if the oil cooler on this 673C is the same as on the 675? If this is a different animal, too, it may get complicated.

And, yes; my in and out MAY be reversed. I need to review my book tonight to see how the oil flows.

Got a response from Gene at State Line. He gave me some pretty generic information, but nothing specific. I sent him some of these pictures, and asked him if they pointed him at anything specific. But, he also gave me a VIN number for a truck to use as a parts list. That might help.

My biggest problem is that I simply don't have any sources around here that I know of with salvage tricks sitting around to pick parts off of. So, I have to count on others' experiences to point me at the correct parts, and THEN try to source them...either new or used. It ain't easy livin' in BFE.

[Freightrain]

I relied on Phil and comparing pictures through email. Felt pretty confident and it worked out in the end.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

From the pictures I'm seeing, the oil cooler on my Thermo is even a different part than the one on a Maxi.

This may be more trouble than it's worth. Will have to wait and see if anybody comes up with any info.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

Look at this Mack drawing, noting the external check valve on the filter. Then look at my "OIL FILTER 1" picture, above. This is why I thought the in and out lines were where I marked them.

Either I have them right, or the filter housing is installed backwards? Or something else...

[Freightrain]

Well apparently the oil goes through the cooler FIRST, then the filter, then the motor oil galleys. Not a big deal. Just need to confirm where that "unknown" line goes? I think the rear(left side) of oil cooler.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

Yeah. That would make sense. If the oil comes out the unknown line, then passes through the cooler, it would then come out of the cooler and into the filter. Filtered oil would go out the big line, and bypass-filtered oil would go out the small line to the pan.

What really drives me crazy is that none of this mess is necessary. If you look at the 3 lines coming out the bottom of the filter, they are the only things set in stone. If the supply line could connect to, let's say, a commercial dual-filter head, with an integrated bypass valve, the filtered oil could come out to the big line and the bypassed oil out to the smaller line...or even to a bypass filter.

On your setup, it appears that the bypass valve is integrated into the pressure regulating valve. Bypass oil is likely dumped right back into the pan. Atually, the filters are probably a "bypass" type filter, with a built-in bypass feature. On mine, the bypass valve is integrated into the filter unit. On the pictures of the Maxi units I posted, I believe the bypass valve is integrated into the head.

Seems like a great opportunity for a "generic" conversion system. Instead of changing all the coolers and manifolds, just need a unit that connects to the existing hoses.

I could probably design it, but might need some help getting it manufactured. Am going to look into the Mack bypass valve parts a little more...

[doubleclutchinweasel]

Wonder if I could come off the supply hose with a "Y", and go through 2 Fleetguard (for example) heads, and "Y" back together into the delivery hose???

[Freightrain]

Mine does not bypass per say like the big unit. It's like a car. Oil from the pump goes through a pair of filters( in parallel) and back to the block to feed the engine. Nothing else to it.

The valve inside is for pressure relief only to control pressure fed to engine again just like a car engine.

I suppose if you could find a filter head and plumb it to the two large lines it would work fine. You could then remove the small return line.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

Most car engines bypass the filter in the engine block, at the filter mounting point.

Virtually every filter system has a bypass. It can even be in the filter, I suppose. Without it, ALL the oil has to go through the filter...clean or dirty. And that's all but impossible. It would take a LOT of filters to flow all the oil the pump moves. Yours probably has a bypass feature in either the housing or the filters themselves. Hard to imagine letting a clogged filter starve the engine for oil. But, I could be wrong (again)!

Most systems, like the car engine, allow the unfiltered bypass oil to go right past the filter & into the engine!

The PAI pictures, I believe, show a bypass piston in the filter head. This oil could go to either the engine or the pan. Can't really tell.

On my monstrosity, the bypassed oil goes through the bypass part of the filter & back to the pan. A great setup...when it's working!

[doubleclutchinweasel]

And now the stupid thing is holding its oil level just fine...

[Freightrain]

Typically, the oil pump has a pressure spring, that keeps a maximum pressure limit on the pump. I don't know the actual GPH a car pump is actually capable of, but I do know a good portion gets returned to the pan as the engine is running. "Most" car filters do have a bypass built in that allows for oil to get to the motor IF the filter would clog/fail. That is for the people that NEVER change them!

That is the issue, what is "Bypass" and how is it being used in these engines.

I would have to investigate the workings of our old system to see what does what and how. "I think" what happens is the pump is regulated for pressure but instead of extra oil just falling back into the pan, it gets filtered and then goes to the pan. Maybe? Does anyone really know?

[j hancock]

Maybe this will help show some details.

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/tutorials/article/98-endt673c-oil-circulation-diagram/

[doubleclutchinweasel]

Like I said, it shouldn't be that complicated to do a "remote" filter setup.

Here is my concept of a dual-filter, full-flow system.

The flow rates and other specifications of these filters match the standard filters for a 237. But, they have a built-in relief valve to allow oil to bypass when the filters are maxed-out, instead of having the relief valve in the block.

This can be mounted anywhere it is convenient, and connected via hoses. The ports in each end are 1" pipe threads, just like the fittings that screw into my canister.

Two of these pictures are just external views. The other two are cutaways showing the supply and delivery porting.

If you really wanted to get cute, a relief piston could be integrated into the block, allowing the bypass oil to go to a separate bypass filter.

I guess I'm really surprised I can't find something equivalent to this online. Seems pretty "universal" to me...

[Maddog13407]

an end673B and end673c should take the same filter assembly as a 675 as they all have oil cooled pistons , oil coolers and turbos. the spin on assembly like Larry has is more of a needle in a haystack. and yes your unknown line bolts to the back of the oil cooler. just not easy to see in the spaghetti mess

[doubleclutchinweasel]

Looked into changing the system over to the spin-on filters of the 675. Not just the filter circuit. The oil cooler, the water pump housing, the radiator hose, thermostat housing, and other assorted small parts are all different.

So, I changed oil and filter with the original setup this morning.

Used a Carquest 85233 filter.

Had 2 gaskets from Carquest. One was a 90114, which is just an O-ring. The other, a 90414, is best described as a slightly "elongated" O-ring. Either would probably work. I used the 90414, and positioned it in the housing so the outer rounded portion fit down into the groove in the housing, and the inner rounded portion was "up". This made the gasket look like it was "crowned" upward toward the inside, which matched up nicely with the shape on the bottom of the cap. Hard to explain!

Filled the crankcase (5 gallons). Filled the filter (3 gallons). Started it up, cracked the filter vent, listened to the air escape. When oil started coming out, tightened it down.

Used 2 new copper washers on the plugs (7/8" ID on the oil pan & 1" ID on the filter vent plug). Cleaned a LOT of sludge out of the filter canister. Nasty!

We'll see...