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new guy with old mack


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post-17105-0-51078900-1389463878_thumb.jpost-17105-0-33829600-1389463791_thumb.jpost-17105-0-59016700-1389463709_thumb.jpost-17105-0-10395000-1389463506_thumb.jpost-17105-0-04410700-1389463615_thumb.jpost-17105-0-12363900-1389463412_thumb.jpost-17105-0-43958800-1389463240_thumb.jpost-17105-0-17080800-1389463082_thumb.jhi again, long story short it was a plow truck. the drivers side(double rail) is split between the front shackles. the passenger side is so much better it looks like its from a different truck. im assuming this is from road salt splash. the drivers side rear springs are bulging from rust between the springs. after reading several threads here I believe I can just change the drivers side? maybe its repairable? my father in law passed and the truck belongs to me now. less than a year before his death this engine was either professionally rebuilt or was purchased new? somewhere I have receipts and they are in the ten thousand range, the cab was changed at the same time. what type of engine is it? I used it for ahwhile but was never able to shift it smoothly. its been in the garge the last two years, but I start it about once a month. there was one period when I didn't start it for 4 or 5 months. it starts so well you never here it crankin. turn the key and its instantly runnin, even when its cold.i never saw the split until after I had spent a great deal of time and money. I need a truck this size and will fix it if it can be done reasonably, but after searching I know ican find a nice lookin single axle ford or international for less than ten thousand.tell me what u guys think. the engine doesn't have a single wet spot around any gaskets but the tranny leaks oil, the steering box leasks and the rear end leaks where the drive axle comes in. I have very little big truck experience and don't know if I should fix it or get another truck? the tranny has lever for gear selection and lever for forward, reverse and high forward, I believe. registration says 1974. what exactly do I have here? thanks.

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I'd say fix the Mack and run it instead of the other brands mentioned. It's a much stronger and better suited for hard work. I basically rebuilt mine which was in very bad shape and I couldn't be happier. It hasn't left me on the side of the road even when the clutch went out. If you care to read what I repaired on mine go to the antique section and search 1991 RD690S. This should give you an idea of how ruff mine was when I bought it and yours doesn't sound as bad as mine even with the frame issues.

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Hi there,

i am in otego not far from you. i have run several macks and brockways with similar cracks. I have a guy weld up the crack spray a little hot rod black paint on and go for it. That truck is way overbuilt so a little horizontal crack isnt going to hurt a thing. You re-rail it you have way more invested than truck is worth in my opinion even if you got it for free. I know a welder who will come out and do it....just pm me........Brian

I can also tell you where to go to get inspected ;)

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I also agree with welding the frame,you got a lot more truck right there then could be replaced by something else cheaper,237/6 speed combo is practically bulletproof,they go together like peanut butter and jelly!..............................Mark

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Mack Truck literate. Computer illiterate.

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Thanks guys I feel better now. I had a real hard time getting the rims off I had to use a ports power. I guess now I'll get the front wheels off and prep that area. Where should I go to get the drums,shoes, and s can bushings? If got brand new rubber everywhere. I made my own battery box, am I required to have a lid on it? Thanks again, I won't be shy ask in questions now

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Thanks guys I feel better now. I had a real hard time getting the rims off I had to use a ports power. I guess now I'll get the front wheels off and prep that area. Where should I go to get the drums,shoes, and s can bushings? If got brand new rubber everywhere. I made my own battery box, am I required to have a lid on it? Thanks again, I won't be shy ask in questions now

We are in Worcester, just over the hill, and we use Cook Brothers for our parts. Good price and service and they deliver, they should deliver to you to.

Not sure about needing a cover on the battery but just for safety sake I would fabricate something.

If you decide not to keep it let me know, I'll give it a good home!

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I used it for ahwhile but was never able to shift it smoothly.

The secret with that transmission is to take your time shifting between gears as there is at least 900 rpm difference between each gear. And I agree with the others, keep the Mack and fix 'er up!

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Cab tag may not mean much.

Check the serial number on the RH frame rail, just behind the RF tire. If the rail is original, that number might match the registration. If not, there have been some changes. By the way, I understand that, at some point, they started stamping the LH rail on the inside, as sort of a hidden way to track the original number, just in case sombody tried to alter or obscure the more easily seen one on the right.

The "R685" would have been equipped with the ENDT-675 (237 HP) engine.

Obviously, that's not what's in there!

The engine model number should be stamped on the RH side of the gear case, near the front of the engine.

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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Here are a couple of pics to show the numbers...

Look between the slotted plug on the fuel pump drive and the reservoir for the PS fluid. You can see the engine number in the pic.

The frame one is easy.

The front axle number should be stamped on the front axle beam, just below the RH spring perch. Maybe something like FA 534, or something.

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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i see your avitar has a cat crawler in it, we all love old iron here, lets see pics of it. . thanks for the comments about the forum, this is a great one and you will love it.

We the unwilling, Lead by the unqualified, are doing the impossible, for the ungrateful.

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