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I know that the carrier is offset but I agree with hatcity in the picture the carrier looks like it is out of line you might want to measure the distance between the tires and frame it looks like the tires on the pass side are closer to the frame than those on the driver side but it could just look that way in the pictures

Edited by Brian Blaylock
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I know that the carrier is offset but I agree with leversole you might want to measure the distance between the tires and frame the picture looks like the tires on the pass. Are closer to the frame than the ones on the driver side

I don't remember my B series being offset like that unless there is trunion stand, or bushing wear. I think the driveline should run parallel to the frame rails. It looks like that driveline may be running through two different angles at the same time. I have a B model in the yard and I'll grab some photos, and measurements shortly.

I also wonder if when the frame rails were aligned if the wheelbase is the same on both sides?

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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As requested, here are some driveline photos...

post-6773-0-12887000-1330884581_thumb.jp

post-6773-0-62938500-1330884681_thumb.jp

post-6773-0-55801100-1330884897_thumb.jp

What I would do is install a cross member in the area of the back of the battery box...........

Is that frame patched(welded) in the area of the battery box and is there a patch (welded) on the frame behind the cab on the passenger side???

My thought on the fame welding is the tensile strength is weakened from heat and will make the frame act like a rubber band

Is that drive shaft made too long and the slip yoke, not working like it should.. Bottomed out?

This could be the reason the rear trans seal is puking

P.S Your air compressor is puking oil

gallery_133_137_10125.jpg

Thanks for hearing me out.

You can have the soap box now---------JIM

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Passenger side front rear is about 1/2 inch closer to the frame than drivers side...I took it out for a ride, coasted straight to a stop...measured again...about 1/2 inch...rear-rears appear to be centered...

Will get out the square and tape measure when the weather breaks (it has been whiteout blizzard, then sun, then more blizzard all day!)..

Yes, the inside frame has about a 12 inch patch within the splice on the outside frame rail...I think I alread posted some pictures of this, will find them...

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Disclaimer: I am not an expert

By your previous pics, it appears you have a twist or bend in there somewhere.

1) drive shaft appeared to be running at an angle

2) appears that frame rails are not true parallel

3) last pic, torque arm does not appear to be lined up straight

Success is only a stones throw away.................................................................for a Palestinian

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I measured three of my B models this afternoon. The drive pinion for the front rear is about 3/4" to the left side of the truck on all three. Both inner front drive axle rims measure right at equal distance from the frame on all three trucks. Two of my trucks are spokes, one is Budd and the offsets are different on each truck but the spacing remains equal side to side. The crossmembers are set at 65" apart on one, and 52" on another that I measured.

To look at the driveline there is not enough of an offset to see it without looking specifically for it. The uncalibrated eye would not know there is any angularity from side to side.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Measure your trunion stand and mounts on each side to see if its the parallel to one another and the same distance back. It looks like the truck had some butchered frame work. If fabbed and welded correctly(make the frame or frames "z-ed" and staggered joints and weld stick weld "SMAW" not mig with a 7014 or 7018 rod) there should be no question to longevity and strength of the frame. We've done it to a couple 10yrd smith mixers on triaxle DM's and they've lasted for the life of the truck.... Add the crossmembers as mentioned above. Look for egg shaped mounting holes for any all the suspension parts. Look at the torque arm ends to see if they have loose or worn out eyes. Look at the insulator bottom pads and boxes for cracks(if aluminum replace) Check all center bolts on the springs to see if any of them are sheered off.

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Did some measuring today...here are the wheel to frame distances

Front of truck

7 1/4 6 5/8

7 5/16 6 3/4

I used a large outside caliper so I would say the measurments are pretty accurate...

Center of front rear carrier is offset 1 5/8 inches..

End plate on trunnion is 7 1/4 outside of frame rail on pass side, 6 7/8 on drivers side (the opposite of the wheel spacing difference)

Did a quick and dirty square check from a hole in the crossmember under the cab to the front perch of the trunnion stand...

85 7/8 and 86 3/16...but this may be because of the way I was measuring it.

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Scribe you a line across the top of the frame rail centered on one of the rivets that retain the crossmember at the rear of the cab on each side. Find another set of holes in the frame just in front of the 5th wheel, (or as far back as possible) and do the same with another set of lines. With a helper measure the diagonal measurements. Before taking your measurements back the truck up at least 10 feet and drive it forward on a level surface without turning while you move forward. This will allow the frame to acheive a neutral plane. These measurements should be the same. If not, split the truck and make them the same before going further.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Scribe you a line across the top of the frame rail centered on one of the rivets that retain the crossmember at the rear of the cab on each side. Find another set of holes in the frame just in front of the 5th wheel, (or as far back as possible) and do the same with another set of lines. With a helper measure the diagonal measurements. Before taking your measurements back the truck up at least 10 feet and drive it forward on a level surface without turning while you move forward. This will allow the frame to acheive a neutral plane. These measurements should be the same. If not, split the truck and make them the same before going further.

Rob

Whatcha mean by "split the truck"?

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Whatcha mean by "split the truck"?

Cut it in half and properly align it before welding back together. The rails absolutely have to be the same length. If there is a factory punched hole in one side, the other side should have a corresponding hole.

Everything is built from parallel frame rails equal in spacing, length, and squareness.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Scribe you a line across the top of the frame rail centered on one of the rivets that retain the crossmember at the rear of the cab on each side. Find another set of holes in the frame just in front of the 5th wheel, (or as far back as possible) and do the same with another set of lines. With a helper measure the diagonal measurements. Before taking your measurements back the truck up at least 10 feet and drive it forward on a level surface without turning while you move forward. This will allow the frame to acheive a neutral plane. These measurements should be the same. If not, split the truck and make them the same before going further.

Rob

Also measure the distance between holes on each frame rail. It may have been put together with one side longer than the other. I also agree with mackcl96, the drive shaft may be to long. I'd pull it check the timing (phase) and have it balanced. If the frame was shortened, the drive shaft may have been changed and have some issues.

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