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Pictures of the F700 and the Superliner


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Here are a couple of pics of the frame on the F700 that I am thinking of taking the motor out of and putting into the Superliner. This is what they did on both sides of the frame. I will post more pics of both the trucks.

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More Pictures of the F700. You can get a good look at their handy work on the frame and how they used a substantially taller piece of frame and welded up all the way around it. There are some large cracks at the front of the frame in front of the wheels about 9 to 14 inches in length. I didnt want to crawl underneath it to get those pictures.

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Here is the Superliner I have my eye on buying. The fella said he would let me have it for about 3000.00. It will need a pair of tires and brakes on the rear axle as well as a motor. I planned on putting the V8 out of the F700 into the Superliner. The guy I am getting off of said the mileage was about 190,000 and was correct. It has been a water hauling truck and that is what happened to the rear part of the frame, that is why he pulled the motor believing the frame was unfixable.

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Looks like they did the drive shaft the same way! Scary!! Paul

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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The Superliner I plane on removing the rear axles, separating the frame, having it sandblasted, primered and painted then go back together. How do I get the top of the frame to lay back down after I clean the rust, dirt and junk out from in between them?

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I'm with Glenn on the frame stretch. Seen a lot of them that way. Using a 1/4" thick, 34" wide frame slides right over a standard 33.5" wide Mack frame. The original Mack frame looks to be nine inch rails where the addition is probably 10" which is very common. This truck was given enough overlap it will be strong. Weld it up solid and it's good to go. I would have probably notched the lower rail and tapered it up to meet with the underside of the existing Mack frame for appearance sake, but it would have added little strength.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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The Superliner I plane on removing the rear axles, separating the frame, having it sandblasted, primered and painted then go back together. How do I get the top of the frame to lay back down after I clean the rust, dirt and junk out from in between them?

I wouldn't do that. Rerail it but the price is too steep to start with given the amount of work it requires.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I wouldn't do that. Rerail it but the price is too steep to start with given the amount of work it requires.

Rob

I would have never though it would be cheaper to replace the frame rails then clean and go back together with them. When to say rerail it do you mean the entire frame rail or cut the frame off behind the cab and do what they did to the F700, just prettier?

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:SMOKIE-RT: The F model I would agree with Rob and weld it up no reason why you can't bevel the bottom of that framre and tie it into the other still. As for the superliner, I've scraped a couple of those 1/4" double frames and when they get that much crust in between the rails like that one they are almost rotted through so when you sandblast them they'll be to thim if you don't blow through them. I'd change the rails. depends what you want to put into it. I'd say the F is an easier fix.
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I would have never though it would be cheaper to replace the frame rails then clean and go back together with them. When to say rerail it do you mean the entire frame rail or cut the frame off behind the cab and do what they did to the F700, just prettier?

The front frame of the RW "splays" outward under the cab. Cut the frame a foot behind the start of the splay, then graft another cutoff onto the stubs. Hide everything well and you will have no problems. Sometimes you will need to trim brackets, (such as fuel tank, battery boxes, etc.) but as Bad Dog stated, it will be thin and metalurgically stretched/fatigued so shouldn't be used again.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Wow, I really thought that F700 was toast!! I dont know that much about frames thats why I ask alot of questions. So, which one would ya'll fix, the F700, which has a substantial amount of rust in the cab and dents that must be fixed as well as parts being rather hard to find or,,,,, the superliner which needs frame rails. Would yall double rail the frame again or go back single rail with it.

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Is the RW a factory double? Is the second piece on the outside or inside? You may be ok cleaning and painting with replacement of the second piece only. You could have those pieces made for a lot less than you can buy Mack frame rails.

I thnk it is a factory double, the second piece is on the inside.

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Looks like they did the drive shaft the same way! Scary!! Paul

I've seen several driveshafts done that way and they are never even close to balanced. Damned strong however........

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Well men, after much deliberation........well not that much really. I think I am going to just shorten the F700 back to the factory wheelbase and let her ride. I appreciate all the advice I have been given, If it wasnt for yall I would have cost myself a lot of money buying frame rails and all kinds of stuff.

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