Prepping For Body Work

[tkobes43]

Hello all fellow mack fanatics,

I have a few questions. Whats the best way to prep a truck for body work? Like the frame, cab etc. Also what do you have to do to prep it for paint?

Thanks alot,

Tom

[Rob]

Hello all fellow mack fanatics,

I have a few questions. Whats the best way to prep a truck for body work? Like the frame, cab etc. Also what do you have to do to prep it for paint?

Thanks alot,

Tom

Clean is the key to start. Do some checking in past posts. There is a lot of good information addressed through the years and posted.

Rob

[tkobes43]

Good idea! Shouldve thought of that first... I guess I started my 4th july partying a little early

Tom

[mowerman]

Hello all fellow mack fanatics,

I have a few questions. Whats the best way to prep a truck for body work? Like the frame, cab etc. Also what do you have to do to prep it for paint?

Thanks alot,

Tom

tom,,,you need to be more specific,,i do all my own body work,,,whatta ya need to do,,,one thing you need to know is cover your motor,and all inlet,and exhaust spots,,bondo,can seeze engine parts,any where you see an opening breather tube,air filter, block breather,,smoke stack,,,try to block all these spots,wife was getting pissed at me,,,had to get off computer earlier.lol...bob

[tkobes43]

I have a few dents on my truck, some are really bad some are small. Some surface rust on the frame. Some cement on the rear diff and suspension parts... What would i need for all those things? Also theres some small holes in my floor and door jam. I appreciate all the help.

Tom

[mowerman]

I have a few dents on my truck, some are really bad some are small. Some surface rust on the frame. Some cement on the rear diff and suspension parts... What would i need for all those things? Also theres some small holes in my floor and door jam. I appreciate all the help.

Tom

buy yourself a good body hammer,and a pretty heavy body dolly,dent puller is a little easier,,but dont recomend,for antique parts,try to pound out as much as possible from the back,without going too far out, ...gallon body filler,and a couple of squeegy,s,and a bondo board,for dents...frame rust,,gitterbug sander,with 80,sandpaper,for real thick rust,,36 paper,with circular sander...small holes,better have a body shop weld repair steel patches,,best way,,cement on rearend,and springs...chip off with wood chisal,and hammer,,,too get started,,that should keep you busy,dont forget lotsa beer.lol,,good luck,bob

[tkobes43]

buy yourself a good body hammer,and a pretty heavy body dolly,dent puller is a little easier,,but dont recomend,for antique parts,try to pound out as much as possible from the back,without going too far out, ...gallon body filler,and a couple of squeegy,s,and a bondo board,for dents...frame rust,,gitterbug sander,with 80,sandpaper,for real thick rust,,36 paper,with circular sander...small holes,better have a body shop weld repair steel patches,,best way,,cement on rearend,and springs...chip off with wood chisal,and hammer,,,too get started,,that should keep you busy,dont forget lotsa beer.lol,,good luck,bob

Thanks alot for the advice. I was just actually looking at a body hammer before. Thats my next purchase. Oh and you cant forget the beer! Thanks alot Bob!

Tom

[vision386]

Thanks alot for the advice. I was just actually looking at a body hammer before. Thats my next purchase. Oh and you cant forget the beer! Thanks alot Bob!

Tom

Tom,not to sound like a smart-ass,but a hammer/dolly can do more harm then good if not used properly. I learned a great deal in my high-school shop classes,and even some evenings at comm. coll.trade school later in life, (mig/tig welding etc.)their is no substistute for experience,but with a little good practice you'd be suprised what you can do! but a good working knowledge of the basics is key. As Rob stated already,clean is important! and just as a heads up,please dont make the same mistake i see so many people do when starting bodywork! DO NOT spray primer all over everything! outdoor exposed primer is a rust magnet! and will just make for more work in the end! and this is just some personal advise,but buy only the tools you need,and try and find the best quality tools available,it will pay off in the long run,hope this is of some help!...........Mark

[fxfymn]

Body work is not as easy as it seems. Like most skills the pros and DIY shows make it look a lot easier than it is. The body work & paint are going to be the first thing folks see, so If you want the rig to be a crowd pleaser you may want to get some help. Unless you are passionate about doing it yourself I would look for a high school shop class that might take it on or at the very least get a quote from a shop. You might even try Craig's List to see if you can find a body guy looking for side work.

Having said that I do most of my own stuff, but I would not want to have learned on a valuable antique. If you are adamant about doing it buy a beater and try out your skills on that first.

[tkobes43]

Tom,not to sound like a smart-ass,but a hammer/dolly can do more harm then good if not used properly. I learned a great deal in my high-school shop classes,and even some evenings at comm. coll.trade school later in life, (mig/tig welding etc.)their is no substistute for experience,but with a little good practice you'd be suprised what you can do! but a good working knowledge of the basics is key. As Rob stated already,clean is important! and just as a heads up,please dont make the same mistake i see so many people do when starting bodywork! DO NOT spray primer all over everything! outdoor exposed primer is a rust magnet! and will just make for more work in the end! and this is just some personal advise,but buy only the tools you need,and try and find the best quality tools available,it will pay off in the long run,hope this is of some help!...........Mark

Thanks Mark! Yea i was just thinking about that before. Im probably going to have my uncle teach me how to use one. He is a huge car guy. From classic cars, to Dodge Vipers. Hes a great guy. Thanks for the advice...

Tom

[tkobes43]

Body work is not as easy as it seems. Like most skills the pros and DIY shows make it look a lot easier than it is. The body work & paint are going to be the first thing folks see, so If you want the rig to be a crowd pleaser you may want to get some help. Unless you are passionate about doing it yourself I would look for a high school shop class that might take it on or at the very least get a quote from a shop. You might even try Craig's List to see if you can find a body guy looking for side work.

Having said that I do most of my own stuff, but I would not want to have learned on a valuable antique. If you are adamant about doing it buy a beater and try out your skills on that first.

Im confident i can do it. Me and my Dad restored cars on the weekends. We have successfully finished 2 1978 trans ams before my Parents divorced. Now he wont talk to anyone me or my sister. But theres more to that story that really isnt important to the subject. I have done it before a couple times but i just wanted to get some advice from the "pros" and see what you guys used and how you used it!

Thanks

Tom

[mowerman]

Body work is not as easy as it seems. Like most skills the pros and DIY shows make it look a lot easier than it is. The body work & paint are going to be the first thing folks see, so If you want the rig to be a crowd pleaser you may want to get some help. Unless you are passionate about doing it yourself I would look for a high school shop class that might take it on or at the very least get a quote from a shop. You might even try Craig's List to see if you can find a body guy looking for side work.

Having said that I do most of my own stuff, but I would not want to have learned on a valuable antique. If you are adamant about doing it buy a beater and try out your skills on that first.

ya,,,(this is very good advice),i went to night classes,myself,not manyabout 3 or 4 nights,watched a buncha guys,did some repairs,everyone is doing something diferant,,atleast go in ,and watch,what a guy is doing with big dents,,,maybe pro body shop,,just ask if you can watch,a while..if you do decide to tackle yourself,dont dorget the cheese graters,too shape bondo, and a good gitterbug sander,with 3 sheets 36grit,for first coatsa bondo,carefull comes off fast,once its getting close to shape,switch to 80 gritget 6 uses out of each sheet..of coarse work the hammer and dolly real good,and try to get the dents out completely,use thin coats a plastic filler when u are ready take your time,some times big dents,take a couple days,or more,and need a little heat,too get them right,,some times you have to just change the part,,too far gone..also need to grind parts down to metal,before bondo,for best results,body sander,with 36 grit,,sorry couldnt finish this last nite was exhausted,,,good luck bob,,have a ball

[jaysm35a2]

Whats a good thing to take the hand paint lettering off the door of a truck without hurting the paint behind it? Mineral Spirits dont work on this.

[41chevy]

Whats a good thing to take the hand paint lettering off the door of a truck without hurting the paint behind it? Mineral Spirits dont work on this.

I wet sanded with 600 grit on a hard block to remove the lettering on my doors. Check frequiently to be sure your not sanding into the original color! Than White compounded the area so bring back the sheen. BUT most hand lettering and striping is done with One - Shot Sign painters enamel and it bonds to the basae paint very well. When the lettering is removed you will end up with "ghost" images of the signage. The paint under the lettering didn't fade as the unlettered will.

I will end up repainting my doors. A good body supply can scan the exposed (faded) paint and get a close match. Paul

[jaysm35a2]

Paul ,

Thank you. The truck has sat indoors for a long time since it was lettered and only taken to 1 or 2 truck shows so the ghost letters I dont think are a big deal. Thanks for the tip on the painters enamel . I figured it was an oil based paint. Mineral Sprits does work after all but it would take me a week with 1,000,000 Q Tips to get it all off and still I dont know if that will be ok and wont damage the paint of the truck. Wet sanding then white compond will bring it the door back to like its suppose to be ?

[mowerman]

I wet sanded with 600 grit on a hard block to remove the lettering on my doors. Check frequiently to be sure your not sanding into the original color! Than White compounded the area so bring back the sheen. BUT most hand lettering and striping is done with One - Shot Sign painters enamel and it bonds to the basae paint very well. When the lettering is removed you will end up with "ghost" images of the signage. The paint under the lettering didn't fade as the unlettered will.

I will end up repainting my doors. A good body supply can scan the exposed (faded) paint and get a close match. Paul

ive tryed that before,,hehe,noticed the paint is swollen where the letters used to be.lol.bob

[Rob]

2000 grit paper on a six inch D/A with a foam interface pad will take it right off. Finish compounding and the remnants will barely be discerable in bright light.

A quicker way is to use a 9" 24 grit disc and you won't see the old lettering at all.

Rob

[41chevy]

Paul ,

Thank you. The truck has sat indoors for a long time since it was lettered and only taken to 1 or 2 truck shows so the ghost letters I dont think are a big deal. Thanks for the tip on the painters enamel . I figured it was an oil based paint. Mineral Sprits does work after all but it would take me a week with 1,000,000 Q Tips to get it all off and still I dont know if that will be ok and wont damage the paint of the truck. Wet sanding then white compond will bring it the door back to like its suppose to be ?

With out seeing it all I can say is It should. It also depends on what type of base paint, is it Acrylic Enamel, Lacquer or Water based. Is it clear coated? Wet sanding and White Polishing compound works. I can only stress that you be care ful and don't sand through the paint. To find if it weas clear coated , find a out of the way spot on the outside of the body and lightly wet sand it. Don't wipe off the residue. Let it dry and see if it dried with a white look...generally that shows a clear coat.

If the Mineral Spirits work and you're unsure about the reaction to the main paint, again try a out of the way spot and soak it with your Q tip and see the reaction. If you get none and feel safer than sanding, move up to cotton BVDs and work the Spirits over the lettering.

Robs advise with a DA and 2000 ultra fine is also a good way. I've used that on a few late model Municipal trucks I've sold. Paul

[jaysm35a2]

Im going with the Sprits until I get to the big name and logo , but takes 10 min per 1 1/2 in. letter for the town and name under it. I will put up a picture tomorrow of what im working on. Im sure its clear coated, its a very nice paint job just not my fav. colors. , Jay

[Superdog]

Easy-Off oven cleaner works good to take old lettering off.

[fxfymn]

Whats a good thing to take the hand paint lettering off the door of a truck without hurting the paint behind it? Mineral Spirits dont work on this.

I have used 2000 grit extensively to repair a less than stellar paint job someone did on the 52. After many hours of wet sanding it brought the paint back to like new by removing orange peel, small sags, etc. After doing the rig several folks told me that they thought I had re-painted the entire rig.

I did all of the sanding by hand (Yes; I'm a wuss who is afraid of burning through the paint with a power sander) and I use a spray bottle of water to keep it wet and to clean the surface of grit when I want to check on my progress. After sanding I use an air powered DA sander equipped with a buffer pad to apply progressively less aggressive compound/polishes and I finish up with a high grade wax. The DA is less aggressive than an electric powered polisher so there is less chance of burn through. I buy the pads at HF for a couple of bucks for three pads and change pads with each grade of compound or wax. Plan on buying plenty of pads if you do a large area.

As Rob said, take your time and it will work.

[41chevy]

Easy-Off oven cleaner works good to take old lettering off.

I heard that, but was always a little chicken to try it. Always thought it was pretty strong. At least my wife says so....

[Rob]

I heard that, but was always a little chicken to try it. Always thought it was pretty strong. At least my wife says so....

One Shot cracks easily under atttack by lye. However you need to be careful and only let it dwell on the surface long enough to soften the coating you want to remove. It will soften the letters, (for instance) to near liquid state while permeating the underlying topcoat staining it. The "Easy-Off" trick was a sign painters favorite in the 60's-80's but the topcoat needed to be thoroughly dry and cured. Acrylic enamel usually needed to be six months old or so before it would not be attacked.

I used a hard rubber block and 1000 grit wet paper with either "Ivory", or "Ajax" dishsoap in the water during the lacquer painting days. Nowadays paint letterering is seldom seen. Vinyl still stains and blocks sun fade, so I use 1200-1500 for an initial cut, followed by 3000 on a D/A sander, (I prefer either Hutchens, or Dynabrade sanders). 3000 will just dull the finish but effectively removes the 1500 grit scratches. The surface will polish up amazingly smooth and deep, but seldom matches the surrounding panels or area in depth, or clarity.Still with only 3-5 mil as a topcoat finish from e-coat, you have to be careful.

Rob

[41chevy]

I still use a few drops of dish soap when wet sanding. It helps to stop the paper from clogging and aids to break the surface tension. Still there is the unknown factor of how much paint and or clear coat is on it. I've always been leary when I get the 'just buff it up for me, there's a ton of paint on it" . Paul