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Brought The Winch Truck Inside For A Look:


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Finally having some time to myself after the past few weeks I brought the R612 inside the shop to gain a small evaluation of what it will need to be ready to go. I find the torque rod on the rear rear has the bushings beat out of it on the crossmember and the rod is turned quite a bit on the rear rear housing that uses the tapered stud type mount setup. The front rear torque rod looks fine to my uncalibrated eyeballs but I'll have to get a better look. The frame is plated with 1/2 inch plate behind the 5th wheel, and probably 16 gauge material up front. One cannot look down through the frame rails and see the differentials at all. I also noticed the bushings in the top of the shock absorbers on the front rears have the rubber bushings well worn but I'll probably just install new shocks.

I think the truck has a slight lean to the right but I'm not entirely certain as where the truck is parked the floor slopes to the centerline floor drain of the shop. My luck is that I'll be purchasing new springs as I've done so many times before......... The bushings and trunion areas of the rears look sound but I've not had a jack or anything under the truck yet.

With the compressor unloader problem I spoke of earlier: I'm suspecting the compressor is a Midland unit as it looks different than any Bendix I've ever seen. The metal tag rivited to the side says "Spanco", or something like that and the model number is: L1800 if memory serves. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I've never been around anything but Bendix Tu-Flow types.

Got a close look at the engine and the "puff limiter" is hooked up,but I can't tell if it is functional. The reversing relay is mounted and plumbed into the air supply so I'm assuming it does, or did work when the truck was in service. The torque rise of this engine is phenomenal to me. A full stab of the throttle just after upshifting to third gear renders very strong acceleration with a nice whine to the turbocharger. With the rate of decay to engine rpm on the upshift, it's almost like driving a big car, or pickup truck. A lot faster shifting that say a Cat, or Cummins powered truck, but not as quick as a tri, or quadraplex behind a Mack engine.

Any preferences on the torque rod bushings? I've seen the urethane types, the roller types, and the rubber types in both repair kits, and replacements. Also have seen the ones where you weld the new end to your existing rod. While I have the rears off the concrete I'm going to check the S cam bushings and such and rebuild anything discovered to be worn. Also going to install spring brakes on the rear rear axle as I will use the winch for dragging.

I don't think the engine rolled over a full round before it started running. Takes about 30 seconds to smooth out well then the exhaust tone is mellow and smooth. I do need to weld the top of the muffler where the exhaust pipe exits the top as it is cracked near fully around the perimeter. The metal is all solid and I think it is due to the mounting arrangment. That metal "flapper" on the exhaust is annoying but keeps the water out as it should.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Thanks very much.

I believe that is the name Mutual Wheel in E. Peoria carries in the types mentioned earlier. The urethane bushing kits are blue in color. I've never priced a complete rod as have never needed one.

Any ideas on the compressor?

Thanks,

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I do need to weld the top of the muffler where the exhaust pipe exits the top as it is cracked near fully around the perimeter. Rob

Forget about the muffler and go straight pipe baby :thumb: !!!! Sounds like you got another good truck and I am envious. I am impressed that it had enough fuel to make it inside!!!LOL :lol: I am however not willing to trade places with you as I am very close to my remaining anatomy. Momma seems to be on her game when it comes to removing precious dangly things!!

#1 on A-model registry

If I drink because of work, why can't I drink at work?

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Forget about the muffler and go straight pipe baby :thumb: !!!! Sounds like you got another good truck and I am envious. I am impressed that it had enough fuel to make it inside!!!LOL :lol: I am however not willing to trade places with you as I am very close to my remaining anatomy. Momma seems to be on her game when it comes to removing precious dangly things!!

I don't know about the straight pipe thing as I really don't like the "drone" of engines long term. Believe it or not the twin 100 gallon tanks are about 3/4 full of fuel so it'll be awhile before it starves out in the driveway.......

Precious dangly things. Hmmmm. Right now I'm about shorter than an ice cold shower yields but Momma don't know nothing about this truck yet!!!!!!!

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I believe that is the name Mutual Wheel in E. Peoria carries in the types mentioned earlier. The urethane bushing kits are blue in color. I've never priced a complete rod as have never needed one.

Any ideas on the compressor?

Thanks,

Rob

It sounds like a Midland part/model number, I think maybe there is an E before the L. If I remember correctly the Bendix and Midland compressors can be interchanged on the E6 with only some slight modifications needing to be made to the air inlet for the compressor.

"Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!"

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It sounds like a Midland part/model number, I think maybe there is an E before the L. If I remember correctly the Bendix and Midland compressors can be interchanged on the E6 with only some slight modifications needing to be made to the air inlet for the compressor.

Mutual Wheel also said the two were interchangable but this one is rebuilt and seem to pass no oil into the tanks. It just won't unload and keeps making pressure till the safety valve releases. It does have the bulldog on the circle cast into the body.

I'll try to get a better look at the tag but is really buried against the frame rail.

Thanks,

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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It sounds like a Midland part/model number, I think maybe there is an E before the L. If I remember correctly the Bendix and Midland compressors can be interchanged on the E6 with only some slight modifications needing to be made to the air inlet for the compressor.

You are correct.

glenn akers

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It sounds like a Midland part/model number, I think maybe there is an E before the L. If I remember correctly the Bendix and Midland compressors can be interchanged on the E6 with only some slight modifications needing to be made to the air inlet for the compressor.

You are correct. I could make out the E L 1300 after peeling off the vinyl protective layer to the aluminum rivited tag. No one in the Peoria, IL area had an unloader kit so I'll have it on Tuesday.

Got "Momma" chores for the weekend so my truck times are through......

Thanks,

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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You are correct. I could make out the E L 1300 after peeling off the vinyl protective layer to the aluminum rivited tag. No one in the Peoria, IL area had an unloader kit so I'll have it on Tuesday.

Got "Momma" chores for the weekend so my truck times are through......

Thanks,

Rob

I think they are better compressor than the bendix untill they are on a 60S DD and they are short life.I have a E 7 with a Holset compressor on it.

glenn akers

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Check all the air lines going to the puff limiter to see if they are plugged internally at a conection.I used to grind down the outside diameter ot a roofing nail head till it would fit inside the connection and was undetectable from outside looking at the lines.

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You are correct. I could make out the E L 1300 after peeling off the vinyl protective layer to the aluminum rivited tag. No one in the Peoria, IL area had an unloader kit so I'll have it on Tuesday.

Got "Momma" chores for the weekend so my truck times are through......

Thanks,

Rob

Picked up the unloader kit last evening. Not much to it really, just a couple of pistons, rings, and gaskets. The instructions look like they have been copied from a copy, from a copy, several times......

I'll get it installed within the next couple of days and see how it works.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Picked up the unloader kit last evening. Not much to it really, just a couple of pistons, rings, and gaskets. The instructions look like they have been copied from a copy, from a copy, several times......

I'll get it installed within the next couple of days and see how it works.

Rob

Curiosity got the best of me so I took the unloader cap off the top of the compressor. Both unloader pistons were stuck in their respective bores but pulled easily with a slight twist and tug with vise grip pliers. The sealing rings on both pistons were cracked/brittle and carboned up badly. I'll clean everything up and install new the new parts in a bit.

Rob

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post-78-082190100 1288830461_thumb.jpg

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I installed the unloader kit this evening after cleaning up the seats, bores, and cylinder head. All is working perfectly after adjusting the governor for cutout pressure right at 120psi. When the engine is shut down the primary side of the air system bleeds down quickly and the secondary side stops at about 65 psi. I expect there is a check valve on the wet tank, and possibly the secondary tank that is bad from setting so long.

The compressor cuts in and out as it should however.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Rob,

I know this is a bit off topic, but it seems to be fairly common that people "name" their vehicles. In which case, I wonder, do you name yours? Secondly, if you do give your trucks names, what have you named this one? And third, how do you remember all of their names?

"Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!"

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Rob,

I know this is a bit off topic, but it seems to be fairly common that people "name" their vehicles. In which case, I wonder, do you name yours? Secondly, if you do give your trucks names, what have you named this one? And third, how do you remember all of their names?

And fourth, you cant name one "Killer B", cause its already copyrighted, or patented, or taken or whatever they call that,,,randy

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I've always named my trucks. "Fred" is my IH R-190 crane truck. "Oscar" was my IH S-160. "Hannibal" was my first rollback truck. "Mutt" was my first Mack carrier. "Herbie" was the M43 tank retriever, (used for righting rollovers). "The 51" is Momma's A-40H, "Snuff", (short nosed ugly fucker) is the B-67ST, "Puss" is the 78 RL755LST, (Cat engine). "Riff Raff" is the 74 RL797LST, and "Tugger" is the R612ST. The yellow B61 is just "Yella Dog" and the other B61 is "Agitation". Finally, the 1977 R795. This truck I plan to call "Instigator", or "Half Breed" due to the Detroit engine and Fuller transmission. My mowing tractor's name is "Hercules", the Allis-Chalmers mower is "Alice", the 57 B61 is "Snoopy" as it

is white with black fenders. My "trusty, yet crusty" Dodge even has a name, simply, "The Black".

I really don't have any problems remembering the names. Seems I have to justify my existence around here often and the trucks are spoken of/about regularly in one form or another.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Google Energy Suspension, they have a ton of polyurethane bushings available for anything you can think of...

Hi Tony, I used Energy Suspension parts for years in the shop. Good stuff. I asked but they had nothing I could use as far as the torque links. I'm going to pull the bar off later this afternoon and have new ends pressed in on Monday. All the ATRO parts are on the shelf local.

Thanks,

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Ran the truck back into the shop this evening with another brake chamber leaking with brakes applied. I bled down the air, removed the clamp and backer plate for the service chamber but could not find anything wrong with it. Went ahead and put the chamber back together and it doesn't leak at all??? Must have been not centered on the flange when it was put together last. I then moved to adjusting the brakes. I have discovered a sizeable wear pattern to the drum friction surface amounting to about 1/8th-3/16 of an inch. I would estimate the brake shoe thickness to be somewhere around 40-50% remaining on all corners. The "S" cams do walk around a bit in the rears, but the fronts are stable. Never have changed a brake drum on something like this and don't know yet how difficult. Also tried to remove the red rubber caps from the "Stemco" front hubcaps promptly breaking both plastic windows. However, all the screws readily removed so I'll get window kits tomorrow. Had to bring all ten tires up to 100psi also. Some had 60, some 30, and some didn't read as my gauge only shows 20psi and above. None however were completely flat and all reached 100 psi without fanfare.

Another thing I noticed is that with 125psi in the receiver(s), and the engine shut down to listen for leakage, I could hear air escaping through the new last month governor around the pressure adjustment screw. Didn't have any soap solution handy so will progress further with this later. Still seems like a check valve is not sealing to allow complete air system bleed off. Am planning to replace the dash air control valves as they are "sticky" to operate but haven't as of yet. Also measured and there is near a 3/4" sag in the rt. side of the truck as opposed to the left. It looks as if the spring shackle bushings are probably shot in the rear of the front springs as they look off centered in their respective bores. All of my truck rated jack stands are under other trucks so I can't unload the suspension to check yet, but they're on my Christmas list.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had me a great time tonight with the R model. I had the rear torque link rebushed, (to the tune of $186.00 using ATRO bushings and press labor) then reinstalled. Also purchased new bushings for the rear shock absorbers due to the rt. side being beaten out. Adjusted all the brakes for even application, then "robbed" batteries from one of the RL700 trucks cause having this thing ready for a joy ride was stressing my patience.

After allowing the truck to come up to operating temperature and ensuring I had adequate legal lighting for the anticipated road trip, out on the hiway I go. Accelerating up to near 55 mph in the top of ninth gear, I flip the red knob on the side of the 13 speed handle and listed to a rapid escape of air into the cab. Pulling the knob back to it's prior position and the air stops. Repeating this again proves I'm not gonna see overdrive in this configuration....... Decided to run the country roads to get a few bumps and shocks sent through the truck as I'd never driven it around the back roads. Damned thing actually is really stable. It has adjustable shocks on the 12,000 steer, and on the front drive axle which are 38,000 rated. I was really surprised it didn't ride like a buckboard. Now you wouldn't want to be driving this way with a hot and open cup of coffee cause you'd prolly drown and scald the "boys" , (I don't have this worry) but the ride was no worse than many empty 1.5 ton farm trucks on the same roads. The brakes now, that's a different story. Don't think I've ever had a truck with brakes that are so effective. You really have to use a "ginger" touch to the pedal or you will lock the tires. Again I'm not used to this truck at all. The tip turbine is a real screamer when on the throttle hard and sounds pretty good. I noticed no cutting out, or misfiring from the engine the whole time out which was about 1/2 hour. There is something in the back like a bracket or some type of sheet metal broken loose from it's mount cause it really clatters and bangs on the rough roads.

I'm probably going to need to install new shift forks and/or blocks in the transmission as the shifter handle is sloppy through the gates. The shifter handle travels further to the rt. side of the truck than it should and is not as "crisp" into it's gates as should be. Both of the other 13 speeds I have out of trucks are much tighter, but these parts are all new in them.

Overall a very pleasant experience for a first real drive. Probably will get plates and insurance next week and start to use it a bit. I did drop the cracked slider section of glass off at the glass shop today to have duplicated. I have new track the correct size in the shop so basically it will be new when reinstalled. As mentioned earlier the winch handle cannot be used with the sliders I've seen in the aftermarket. Also need to take the doors apart and lube the window mechanisms as they are difficult to operate. Will probably replace the opener operator as it is worn out. Dont' know till it's apart if I'll just install all new track and weatherstrips. Both windshields are cracked but I have everything new on hand. I do think I'll stay with white for this truck with a nicer interior than the beige utility type there now. Need to pop the hood off the truck for some repairs and may spray the truck at the same time. Don't really have a lot of rust to contend with but there is some. May need to put a new roof skin on but won't know till I'm into it.

Once back at the shop I shut the engine down and could ascertain an air leakage underneath. Sliding under the truck and following my deaf ears best I could, a hose, (Stratoflex) on the back of the transmission was found to be loose. I tightened the fitting and it ceased leaking but don't know what this line does but it had constant pressure to the upper right piston looking at the rear of the trans. Back inside the cab I dissassembled the closing piece on the bottom of the shifter and discovered the red pressure line to be cracked/broken. I'll order a new line set tomorrow as all the lines are seemingly brittle from age. By sitting in the shop and manipulating the settings and this broken line I could hear the overdrive section engage smartly when selected.

Really gonna enjoy getting familiar with this thing. Now to find an acceptable trailer to drag around behind.......

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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