David

Even when you try to buy a new Mack they're already half Volvo. Volvo engines. Volvo front axles. Built in a Volvo plant. I passed the Hagerstown engine plant last Monday. From I-81 you can see the "VOLVO", but you need to be in the parking lot to read the "mack" on the side of the water tank.

And tube type tires!

Buying a Mack with non-mack components means you're not locked into dealing with the greedy local Mack dealer.

DM is for Dump/Mixer. Could be D for dump. These trucks were built for on/off road use. RM's were built for maintence work. Most were sold to Highway departments. Most are 4x4 or 6x6. The setback front axle and clean exposed frame rails made it easier to install snow plows. RS and RL, the difference is aluminum and steel frame. RW? The W may have been Western. The first one's were built in Haywood,CA and ment to resemble west coast trucks (KW and Pete). R and U models had similar frames but the U had the offset cab and short hood. The DM came later and with real heavy frames. The numbers ( 4,6,7 and 8) are related to the frames and designed capacities. The RW6, MH6 and CL6 all use the same 1/4" frame and the RW7, MH7 and CL7 use the same 3/8" frame. This should be a start for you. Others may be able to correct or add to this. Keep up the good work.

I have 9 R model cabs from 1978 to 1989. 3 with gray interior, 6 with brown. All 9 have long handles and the deeper cab. I've never seen a brown interior in a short cab.

How much did their education cost you?

Is the "Mack" offset to allow for the diagonal line?

"Mackness" must be a term created by Volvo Marketing.

I rest my case.

I think that truck was for sale in Wheels of Time. The price was only about $120,000.

You might be able to cut a slot with a thin disc on a die grinder and then remove with a large flat screwdriver.

No offence to the guys doing the work. I'm just tired of getting screwed by the local dealer. That's why we do our own work and buy parts from other dealers (the ones who post on here).

You could take it to a dealer, let them chase the ghost. Just give them a blank check, let them change parts (at list price), test drive on your fuel and time. Then go change some more parts until they get the right one. Let us know what it cost!

The last weekend of this month. Mapquest "Lititz, PA" It is a great show. Mr Garhart (the host) lets visitors wander through his shop and bone yard.

The earing says Peterbilt. The hat says pig hauler.

Did Volvo really "sell" the Autocar name? As part of the FTC approval of the Volvo-Mack merger, either the Xpeditor or the Mack MR had to be divested. Between the two the combined company would have had about a 95% market share. You can bet Volvo still has an interest in the Xpeditor and Autocar name.

22.5 and 24.5 Budd wheels may not fit on your 50/55k Budd hubs (if you can find them). The hole in the center of the wheel is 8 1/4 inchs. The axle caps on my 58k are 9 7/8 inchs. Every truck I've seen with heavy rears and Budd wheels had 24 inch tube type wheels. They come in a larger bolt pattern with a larger center hole. I've never seen a 24 inch aluminum wheel (with either bolt pattern). You may need to change to 44k axles. Good luck.

If you go to the 12513, your overdrive will go from .71 to .86. It's going to run slower.

Welcome. Always good to see another Tarheel here.

The 5,6,7,& 8 speeds are all .6 overdrives. They all are also direct in the next to high gear. Most trucks with these trans have 5.73 rears. They are like driving an old 6sp 2 stick. You wind em up tight and then wait for the tach to drop to 1300 to find the next gear.

Where are you in NC? Call me at 919-932-3344. I may have some parts for you.

Check this out. www.themetalith.com/k50crashtesting.html

I have (2) 1400x20's on budd wheels for sale if your interested.

24 inch budds come in 2 different bolt patterns and 2 different size center holes.

I have had the steel pin in the aluminum petal set up and not allow the petal to come up. Remove the pin and clean up the holes with a drill.