BAD DOG

I have both types of pumps, and the Robert Bosch is the smoother one and it dosen't smoke as bad as the AMBAC either. The only difference in the two is the pump and injectors. the engines are the same.

I looked at my spare pump for a 375 this afternoon, and found that the cap on the right side (passenger side) on it has an actual plug in it that looks like you probably could have had an airline attached to it at some time. I took off the two screws holding the cap on an found the cap was sealed with an o-ring, and under that appears to be a plunger assembly similar to the aneroid valve setup on the newer Robert Bosch injection pumps only without a diaphram. It also has a slot in the end that looks like you might be able to adjust it. I also took a look under the other cap and there is a similar type of plunger under it also but the cap on it is solid no place for fitting. I assume that the one that is on my complete engine just has the cap plugged with silicone instead of using a plug. My guess is that that might be wher the puff limiter is supposed to go. My 375 is a 1974 and I was told by a mechanic at the local dealer up here who actually worked on a couple of these engines when they were new and he said they were equiped with a puffer.

I looked at my spare pump for a 375 this afternoon, and found that the cap on the right side (passenger side) on it has an actual plug in it that looks like you probably could have had an airline attached to it at some time. I took off the two screws holding the cap on an found the cap was sealed with an o-ring, and under that appears to be a plunger assembly similar to the aneroid valve setup on the newer Robert Bosch injection pumps only without a diaphram. It also has a slot in the end that looks like you might be able to adjust it. I also took a look under the other cap and there is a similar type of plunger under it also but the cap on it is solid no place for fitting. I assume that the one that is on my complete engine just has the cap plugged with silicone instead of using a plug. My guess is that that might be wher the puff limiter is supposed to go. My 375 is a 1974 and I was told by a mechanic at the local dealer up here who actually worked on a couple of these engines when they were new and he said they were equiped with a puffer.

How many cubic inches is the MP10 Engine ?

Looks really sharp. 1000 times better than a Volvo. What will be available for a power in it? I wish the would bring back another V8 for a truck like that.

The 375 V8 I have here has silicone covering the cap on the right side cap. I was told before that that was something to do with the puffer on that pump. I never took the silicone off though to have a peek. Mine used to belt out thick black smoke too, and sometimes an uneven flutter or miss at mid rpms. When we did a bearing roll a few years ago there were two rod bearings that had the top inserts worn and the other six were like new, so we decided to pull the injectors out and snap test them. Those two injectors were half dead , globbing not spraying like they should. we put 8 new injectors in it and she ran nice and smooth and got rid of my smoking problem too. I'll lhave a look on the spare injection pump I have when I go out to the shop this afternoon and take a peek at it, I'm pretty sure that cap has silicone on it , I'll peel it off and let you know what I find.

My 866 V8 had a Puff limiter on it at one time . I think the 865 s probably did to.

I've been trying to get all the parts and tools lined up that I need to replace the broken timming cover on my E9 out of my MH613 that got wrecked last march. I have all the gaskets and seals needed and a good timming cover that I can use from my parts engine. Iwas looking at my E9 overhaul manual and it requires 4 specialty tools that I don't have, and don't really want to buy unless I absolutely have to. 1 is a J-29288 timming cover to crankshaft alignment tool . 2 is a J-29303 seal driver. 3 is a J-29304 fan drive alignment tool and seal driver that is no longer available from Kent Moore any more. And 4 is a J-29287 cover alignment tool for the water pump drive. Allat a cost of over $1200.00 directly from Kent Moore . What I was wondering if it would be worth trying it without them and doing it a little different by instlling the seals in the housings off of the engine using a little different driver for the same size seals , and use the water pump itself to align the cover. or should I keep trying to find someone with the tools or wait the month long wait an spend the money on these tools I may only use once. Have any of you guys ever changed one of these covers ? And What would You do?

If I remember right from when I did the ones on my superliner a few years ago , mine seemed a bit loose when you slid them over the shank and they tightened up after I snugged them up with my big 1" impact.

I would definitly have to agree after you drive an E9 you won't want to go back to the other ones . My E9 450 powered MH613 got hit last march head on by a car since then I have been driving a company truck with a E7 427 and there is no comparison between the two. It was quite a setback for me.

I would definitly have to agree after you drive an E9 you won't want to go back to the other ones . My E9 450 powered MH613 got hit last march head on by a car since then I have been driving a company truck with a E7 427 and there is no comparison between the two. It was quite a setback for me.

I might be able to help you give me a call. (519) 999 4706

Your ad sounds good Barry. I hope it ads to your bussiness. I didn't know you had a second location in Kittaning. My dad and I went past Kittaning on 422 with his 90 E9 powered superliner and my 92 E9 powered MH about 3 times in july and august of 2006 with loads of pipe going to Ken Miller supply co. over at Indiana Pa. I see that New Alexandria is just a stones throw from there, If I had known about your web site back then we would have stopped by to show you our good old dogs from Canada. It sure is a real nice area where you,re at there, you could sure tell that that's Mack country out there Alot of guys gave us the thumbs up out there when we went by. I found some of the hills to be a little different to what I'm used to. I slowed down for a lot of the curves because of the top heavy load an it seemed like when you rounded the bend that you were going down hill when in fact you are really going uphill but when you realize it you are too late to feed the fuel to it and all you could do was go back a few gears. our 2nd trip out there was alot better once you know where you're going and know the roads a little I cut lots of time off and barely slowed down much on the hills either. I really enjoy your Big Mack Trucks website and spend a lot of time looking on it and appreciate all the hard work that you put in to it. Enjoy your Thankgiving Holiday tomorrow.

Mack made V8's before '78. They started with the Endt864 in the mid 60's wich I think was 250 HP. naturally aspirated. Then they came out with the Endt865 325 HP. and the Endt866 375 HP. These were considered to be monsters, back in the day, and really still are today as far as cubic inches go. I was running an 866 until about 2 yrs ago and it held its own pretty good for an engine thats about the same age as it's driver. It would still blow off alot of this newer stuff if I wanted to. They were a competitor to 12v71 Detroit diesels, and 1693 Caterpillar, and 903 Cummins engines. I know guys that ran the when the were new and they told me that if you could get the right guy to play around under the hood that you could squeeze about 500 HP. from an 866 if you wanted to. The Endt 865 and 866 were made until '78 when they came out with the BIG BOY Endt1000 later calld the E9.

We've had 3 E9s and an old 866 and they all did that. I think it's just nature of the beast. Even the with the E9 we had new in 94 leaked a little . They tend to have a bit of fuel seepage from there to if you do much idling in cold weather between the front and rear pieces of the manifolds. Probably due to temp changes expansion and contraction. The part from the rear of the manifolds to the turbo should have donutsin the joints that you could change if they leak there. The part between front and rear manifolds you could try an exhaust cement or sealant on them. we tryed that on one of ours after having a head off. It worked for a while. The engines own carbon seems to keep them sealed up most of the time. Unless it's leaking real bad I wouldn't worry about it.

Are you still needing photos for your calendar Barry? Would it be ok if I sent you original photos of my truck by way of the mail instead of E-mail because I'm a little computer illiterate when it comes to sending E-mails and posting my photos on the site . I would sure like to put my pics. of my E9 powered MH cabover I lost in a wreck this past march on.

Parts for ENDT865 / ENDT866 engines are tough to find . I got a cople of water pumps and an oil pump for my 74 ENDT866 V8 a couple of years ago from Northwest Truck in Edmonton Alberta Canada. They were Remanufactured ones but everything has a one year waranty. The water pumps cost me around $600 plus a $200 core charge if you don't have a rebuildable core to return , and I think the oil pump ran me about $800 . A set of bearings was about $1000 , And they only had one complete Inframe Kit left then and they told me I cold have it for $8000 then . They use Pai Parts . I had good luck with there stuff. I've bought a lot of parts from them. I have their phone number here somewhere I can look it up or you can get it off their website . Ask for Harold if you call them. I have a spare waterpump her I might sell .

I HAVE 2 My 89 RW700 superliner that I am now in the process of restoring . It has an ENDT866 V8 from a 74 F model in it now , but after I get the left frame rail straightened I am planning to repower it with the 92 E9 450 out of the MH613 I lost in a wreck a few months ago. I plan to put the 866 into some other kind of future project. I also have an 84 MH613 with an E9 400 that I had for a parts truck for my 92 MH.

:bmod1: I was just trying to put my pics on the site.

:bmod2: Well after a month and a half long break after my mishap I finally got back behind the wheel again. I did a day trip for a guy in mid april and I'm not proud to admit it but I spent a 12 hour day in a Volvo . I sure wouldn't trade a good ole for 10 of those things. Needless to say that was enough of driving a Volvo career for me. I think a truck like that is for boys that like boys. A couple days later I got me a job with an excavating co. about 4 miles from home . They have real trucks there, mostly Macks consisting of 4 CH tractors , 3 RB tri-axle dumps , and 1 CL tri-axle dump , ranging in HP from 350 to 427 . They sure don,t hold a candle to my E9 , but they sure beat that Volvo . As for my project superliner I haven't had time to get started on it yet . I got the E9 and tranny and everything else I wanted out of the MH home a few weeks ago . I got my buddys backhoe here to do the lifting I need to do . I just need to get at it . I'm hoping to get started on it soon . I'll keep you guys posted on my progress on it , and maybe someday figure out how to post some of my pics . I'm kind of computer illiterate , but i'm sure I'll figure it out one of these days . In the meantime keep the shiny side up , the rubber side down , and the black smoke rollin . :bmod1:

:bmod1: Cross over the border into Ontario and its around .85 a liter or around the $4.00 a gallon and all you can buy is ULSD. It's not even worth going to work anymore .

No not for getting them made. I have only priced genuine Mack rails witch were for my trucks VIN which were 3/8" 30' rails and they said are no longer available from Mack. For the price they told me though they should have been solid gold ones. I should call P.G. Adams just to see if they could duplicate the Superliner II rails with the drop in the front and to see what they would be.

I looked into buying new frame rails for my RW700 superliner the other day and was told that the specific heavy ones for mine were not available anymore. I also loked over a new CL700 they had sitting on their lot , so I got the tape out and measured the frame up. It had what apears to be the same shape and thickness rails with alot of extra holes in the front of the frame. I wonder if CL rails would work on my RW project.

WELL I SETTLED WITH THE INSURANCE THE OTHER DAY. THEY GAVE ME CLOSE ENOUGH TO WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR OUT OF IT PLUS 20 DAYS OF DOWNTIME AND THE TRUCK BACK FOR SALVAGE. SO WHEN I GET THE MH BACK HOME AND DISMANTLED FOR PARTS I'M FIGURING ON DIGGING MY SUPERLINER OUT OF MOTHBALLS AND FIXING IT. FOR NOW I THINK I'M GOING TO JUST DRIVE FOR SOMEONE. AND JUST HAVE THE SUPERLINER FOR A BIG TOY. I DON'T INTEND ON BUYING ANOTHER TRUCK FOR THE ROAD RIGHT NOW AT LEAST NOT UNTLL FUEL PRICES GO DOWN.

Thanks Glenn. I'm keeping that option open be for i do anything to drastic. We have some friends up here that have a fleet of Ford and Sterling gravel trucks. They had one of their tri-axle dumps rolledover a few years ago and they said they sent it away and had it sraightened. They said that that it worked out just fine for them. If it works ok on a Ford it should be ok for a big heavy Mack. I'll have to find out where they had it done at.