Vladislav

That's just a reference picture, not parts for sale. If you need such part I think you better put an add in Parts Wanted thread of the forum.

Thank you for taking the time. I went through the web once again and it seemed like the only bumper you can purchase at the time is Mack (made by Hendrickson) 5887-MM0611. Unfortunately I couldn't fine any picture of that particular style of the bumper so that's still a mystery. MM0613 looks good on pics and would work nice for a Superliner but the facility I requested a quote on answered NLA.

Great looking trucks you have there down under! Thanks for sharing.

Amazing! Even difficult to belive you could keep a working truck in such nice looking condition.

A really rare anymal in my neck of the woods which is full of rail cars and highway traffic. Don't remember ever seeing them in a real life.

That's not a part you usually see on a truck picture. Worth to point out there were RS600 and RS700 models, latter ones had longer hood. The pic attached is from RL700 (aluminium rails) sales brochure. As you can see that front engine support or front chassis crossmember is of different style than R600 dump truck on the above picture has. It's made integrated with front spring front brackets. You truck doesn't have that style as I suppose.

Can't figure the matter. I tinker with an idea to order brand new RWII chrome bumper until they're avalible. Remember we discussed a flat bumper with dished towing openings and no fog light holes was 5887-MM0613. Seems like NLA to the moment. There's also 5887-MM0611 which i expect to be the same but with square fog light holes Can anybody proof that or share different facts? I wouldn't be happy ordering $600 part and finding it wrong after it's on the other side of the waters.

Ok, here you go. RS600.

Do you mean this?

Wow! Something almost new to me! I was pretty dumb sure the only inverted Camelback was Mack Taperleaf.

The slleeper is doing good. It's painted and with a mostly complete interor. Also the cab and the hood are painted. I didn't update much. Would like to get the most nice pieces together. Seems like there's nothing to boast of since the job takes that long

First thing which comes on my mind is drilling a larger hole in the leaf. But further figuring tells it might make the leave's end weaker. So seems better to machine the pad's pin. It's steel or cast iron so could be machined with a right equipement or cut in size with a grinder and I doubt it would be any less strong than a factory pad with smaller pin.

Do you mean those "buttons" were installed inside cavits in axle housings? Strange to me since my military Mack made in 1945 already had rubber pads for both the top and the bottom of the springs. Maybe the reason was my Camelback is 44000 and yours looks lighter, I'd say 34000. I'm not ready to give 100% bulletproof advice but if I were you I'd look for Mack rubber pads of different sizes and try to use suitable ones in place of the buttons. Should admitt in most cases Camelback rubber pad destroy occures lower pads. And upper ones are found worn quite seldom.

Should admitt the double headlights are "Russian improvement" and the grill was bought and installed by me. Don't know the reason but the most SGT R688 and some other Canadian R's didn't have it. Seems strange since I would expect it as standard factory equipement for the particular Mack model.

Ufff!... No, that's not my truck and none of the 5 went to Russia. But configurated the same. The exceptions are aerodyne top instead of a plane shield my truck has and there are additional fuel tanks which were specified in the factory order list but by some reason were never installed. The most interesting matter along these trucks is the style of that sleeper. I saw multiple ones but they were all installed on SGT R-models. And I never saw anything like that elsewhere.

Swishy, mate, thanks for clearing me up. Now I'm not that blind in part ## jungles

Thanks for the info support and the offer. I will keep Bendix one in mind. Would like to go with two almost similar ones. And I have no less than a year to find them. Just slowly collect parts required for the project. Ok, a point to note - 20QE458 doesn't cross to 103009 (4pci crack) but to 065125 with 5,5 pci. Wonder how that difference in crack pressure is sufficient for brakes operation?

With that wobble I would be worrieing of the front end of the crank get worn. Met such issue on a car's engine and had to swap the shaft.

What? Exhaust?? I was pretty sure those were two electric poles at the background. Seriousely.

As Paul almost correctly said, you need first the door latch (lock) unscrewed from the sheet metal and key cylinder removed by pulling off a clip aside to it. After that as said in the previous answer remove all the machine screws around the square panel, turn loose two screws near inside door opening handle (but keep them in place) and pull all the assembly out together with the window and door lock. I have it done both on a truck and on a door removed and found no difference. The door is much less of weight when empty if you're going to install it on a truck but absolutely no reason to remove a complete door in a reason to just take it apart or change window/lock/regulator. Vlad

Going to buy a new pair of such ones to put on my R-model. Went through flea-bay and found they differ about port locations and some marked as 4 pci crack pressure. Also I noted there's plenty of different (Bendix) part## which didn't have much in common. A question - what should I look for making the choice? My originals valves have tags gone. The truck is a long wheelbase R-model tractor unit which is most probably supposed to drive without a trailer and just for hobby reasons. The pics are what I removed from 31 y.o. chassis and they looked being installed there at the factory. Thanks in advance, Vlad

Spray sealant? One really good idea. And bad thing I'm not sure that's a stuff I could easily fing in my neck of the woods. When I went through that step assembling a carrier I applied common sealer from a tube and sure got some outtashapeness of contact pattern on the teeth.

What's about this subject? I found not much interest to the matter and no proof. https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/59186-b-model-door-handles/

The brake valve iself is a common type threadle valve. The part you need is a kind of spicer. Same general design as say R-model but longer to suit MH cab. The plunger which is actually a tappet is longer also. If no options to purchase a good part I would try alu welding and than grind the edges into the shape and drill 3 holes. Vlad

Pretty interesting, thanks for sharing that Paul.