Geoff Weeks

If I understood, he checked for that.

Also you only mention it happening when the "yellow button" is in, I assume this is a single unit (red button out) when it happens? If you have a trailer there is more that can leak with the red button in.

In North America, there are two other places that the two systems interact. One is the inversion valve and the other the anti compounding. The 1st is a system that if you loose one side of the dual system, uses the spring brakes proportionally applied by the other half of the duel system. It vents spring brake air in relation to brake air on the other system. So there is one place that could leak spring brake air into service air piping. The anti compounding is there to prevent both air service brake and spring brake from being applied at the same time. (prevents too much pressure on the cam and slack adjuster). On both of these it could leak into the other system. If Your leak is a minor one that seams to go away when the service brake is tapped, than I'd look at those two valves If on the other hand, it leaks all the time the spring brakes are off and the service brakes are off, and only goes away when you step on the brake, Then it is likely a relay valve.

Does it use a Push type double disk? I thought I saw a "nose type" front bearing retainer and no upper cross shafting.

If you like what you have, it is ALWAYS cheaper and easier to fix what you have than it is to replace with something else. Driveshaft will be different length almost 100% sure, then there is the mounts and shift. If you have a donor truck that is the same, that you can swap parts off of, it isn't bad, but it is the little stuff that causes the most pain, doing swaps.

The Magnum had big cam oiling, so that is a dead give-a-way. The NTA was different, it was all small cam, and I think the "lunch box" after-cooler. As I say, not a small cam guy so could be wrong. Magnum was externally a Big Cam and used all Big Cam external parts, internally was a small cam. So it would have the Big Cam oil cooler DFC oil pump, and IIRC waterpump/accessory drive pulley, same for aftercooler, all on a small cam block. At this point it could have either in it. CPL 23 and 135 are NTA 420's there are other CPL's as well

does that mean the old content is gone for good? Thanks, btw I was wondering if I had forgot my log in.

Same here

If you have 40 psi the next morning, I wouldn't worry about anything on the protected side (after the primary and secondary tanks) and concentrate on the system from the compressor through the wet tank to the inlet check at the primary and secondary tank. That is where your leak will be. With the drier purging every 20-30 sec it will be a big leak.

I agree, most inspectors don't even know what they are looking at. I've had two that looked at the inside of the spokes and the spacer rings as well as the outside in all my years and inspections. I am not saying that you'll run into that every day. I do know if you use the right parts you'll never have spun wheels or other wheel end problems. What you choose to do is up to you. I know many that will put aluminum "Budds" on short steel studs, and claim there is no problem. I know better and you'll never hear me say you can do it. I'm just trying to explain how it was done from the get -go. What to look for and how to select the right parts.

I ran 10R x 20 radials (Tubetype) and 11r 22.5 tubeless or 295-80 22.5 (same diameter as an 11 but higher load capacity) Can't say I noticed any ride difference between them.

Heelless clamp: Heel type clamp: 4" spacer band: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWDSB4020K?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Towing&campaign_id=8911645606&adgroup_id=106416389246&adtype=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh83M_92TgAMV3t7jBx0njAqgEAQYAiABEgITJ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&

New ones should be available, but not stocked. Special order item. There are two classes of wedges for duals. Heel and heeless clamps. Heeless should never have the heel end touch the spoke, Heel can have a small gap or touch, provided it doesn't touch until the nut is torqued to 80% of final torque. I would be surprised if the side with the narrow spacer has proper duel spacing, and the tires don't "kiss" on the sidewall when loaded. If you measure the flat part of the spoke, from where it starts to taper up in the back, (where the taper starts, don't include the taper) to the end of the cast spoke. If the measurement is: 6" try a 4" spacer band 6 1/4" try a 4 1/4" spacer band If it is less than 6" pay close attention to duel spacing with modern tires. My K-7 has a low GVW of 16500lb still uses a 6" wide (long?) spoke, the same as many modern hubs built for 11x r 22.5 tires. Spacer bands are "sized" by the outside measurement across the band, not inside width. These are the most common combinations. Also there are whole pages of wedges for duals with differing profiles and depths. It isn't a "one size fits all" type of assembly. The wedge must go over the end of the spoke and not be right at the end of the spoke casting when tightened. My 1942 IHC with 8.25x20 tires still takes a 4" band, I doubt that narrow band is correct. If you can find a casting number, or if it is branded (Mack, Gunite etc) see if you can find a part number in a parts book for the correct wedges and spacer.

Here, a DOT cop who knew what he was looking at would fail that. Yes, I have been though a few (very few) inspections where they knew enough and looked for wear, spun rim, and repairs to the assembly. Spacer rings aren't that much money, last time I bought some. I have never had a rim spin on something I assembled, but have seen plenty. I can see making that repair in the field, but not once back where the proper parts are available. Wouldn't pass inspection. In 20" and 22" stuff the spacer band will most likely fall in the 4" to 4 1/2" range (We don't have 24" in this part of the country, so no experience with those). Lighter axles found on smaller trucks may use bands that are smaller than 4", but that limits the tire and rim width you can fit. You say I am "over thinking" things, but you are repairing "spun" wheels? Hum, that lead to the question why are your wheels spinning in the 1st place? I did heavy haul, so carried above the normal weight on axles. Never had a wheel spin, even on hard brake applications. Here we had Webb, Gunite, Erie, and Dayton (and may be more that I am forgetting) making spoke wheels, there were different attaching methods and hardware used, some of which was compatible with other brands and some isn't. Just for example Erie used captive bolts and ball seat nuts, with wedges designed for that. They are not interchangeable with wedges and nuts for for stud based spokes with flat nuts. You CAN fit mis matched parts, just as you CAN fit mis matched lock rings on wheels, but in both cases it can cause a failure, rims may blow the ring out and kill you. Wheel end is just likely to spin and take out the valve, but could snap the stud and cause the loss of the rim/tire. For a while in the 90's (It may still be going on) Canada was having trouble with wheel end coming off trucks and killing people. If they found a wheel end problem they impounded the truck for a week (if I remember correctly) and it couldn't be moved without being repaired, even if repaired the same day, the week had to be "served" before the truck released. I take wheel end seriously, and have never had a problem with spoke wheels. I have had many problems with disk wheels. For a while IHC used the Erie system, my 1942 has them. If the spoke has been worn from loose rims, it is not a one-off time someone didn't install them correctly, it is something that has been going on for a long time. I question the maintenance practice of an operator with that. Parts that are mated and have no movement between them don't wear!

As with anything defective parts need to be replaced, but you don't change spacer bands when changing rims. The spoke determines what is required. If you have rims moving, you have a problem, defective or mis matched parts. If a rim spacer is damaged, replace it with the same width as the original. If you suspect a mis matched parts, then either consult someone who knows what should be or replace the whole assembly. All else fails, you can take the casting number off the spoke hub, from that you can determine the mfg, and contact them for the correct parts for that hub.

NO! the spacer and wedges are determined by the spoke hub, they don't change with the rim choice. Spacer sets the rim position for the wedges. The spoke length determines how wide the spacer that is needed and how wide the rims it can hold. Difficulty when buying used hubs without the factory spacer and wedges, is getting the correct parts.

I was still running 10R x20's on my trucks when I retired. I had a mix of tube and tubeless. Finding tubes on the road became the reason I started to phase them out. No rim or bead leaks with tube types. I ran long haul and carried a spare, regardless of construction.

Is there a market for a Spokes 101 thread? They used to be common but are not anymore. Anybody who says you "torque them straight" run from. There is a trick to getting them on, but they are strong and easy to change with hand tools.

Rear inner mounts with the stem out, rear outer mounts with the stem in. Front mounts with the stem out. It has to do with the heavy mount ring that the wedges clamp too, and what has the taper. Inside of the rear spoke has a taper that the inside of that ring mates too Outside rear, the wedges have the taper. Front spokes have the taper, front cleats hold the rim on the taper.

It does, the rim will only attach with the stem outward. If you are changing from 11x22 to 11x 24.5 you are stepping down one tire size. If, however, you are changing from 10x22 to 11x 24.5 you are staying the same size.

Likely a small cam NTA, but I am not a small cam guy.

The electric valve I was talking about was in the REFRIGERANT line not the coolant line. The Mack sleeper I have has that valve but I don't know the year. The valve is there so that if the bunk unit is off, no air flow through the cores, that no refrigerant flows so the evap core doesn't ice over. It is possible that the newer Red Dot units do it different than the older one. The system I am familiar with control the compressor based on the temp of the front evaporator. If there is less or no air flow over the bunk unit, it will cool below the frost point. You can't have a frost switch in both evaporators and have a workable system, but there does need to be a way to stop refrigerant (again, not coolant) flowing in the evaporator (again not heater core) when the bunk unit is not being used and the front system is.

I don't need a tinfoil hat to wonder if it was "disapproval" from the GRU that caused the site to go black!

I still hold hope it can be brought back, no knocking the warm welcome here, there was a lot on JOT that isn't here and can't be brought over without rebuilding the files that were on JOT. My feeling on ATHS is: they haven't changed from the time JOT was built, and until they do, I am not returning. I want to re state that I am very happy with the warm welcome given here to "off breed" posts, but it is 1st and foremost a site for the Mack brand, and that is how it should be.

Eddy, what is the longer term prospects for JOT? is it coming back or done?