Geoff Weeks

Sorry if this seam "nit-picky" but it is Gardner, not Gardener, And yes, the mains are bolted up from the bottom and then a stud is run all the way across the block through the main cap, to hold the bottom end tight. No internal oil passages with the exception of of the drillings between the main and rod journals in the crank. The crank is lubed with an oil pipe running down the center of the crankcase. The engine can be broken into three sections: Crankcase, block and head, you can pull it apart with the block and head as a unit, or with the block and crankcase as a unit. The injection pump was special to Gardner, the pumping elements were made either by Simms, or CAV, and you could lock off individual cyl while it was running, or "pop"test the injector without doing anything but pulling the manual handle on the pump. When idling in the cold of a Chicago winter, we would lock off 3 cyl and idle on the other three.

For the same (aprox) displacement you could have a Cummins L-10 or a Cat 3306 and have a far better engine. Both of those would pull a loaded semi at 80K. Longer and taller but better suited. If you look at comparing to a 5.9 or 6.7, you are comparing to a much smaller engine, in the case of the 5.9 almost 1/2 the displacement. The 3208 was 10.4L

I worked on a fleet of 6LXB's. I drove a bus from Columbus, OH to Chicago with one. They are a work of art. Their main drawback is they are large for low power output. Low rev'ing but sips fuel. Great engines in the correct application.

I checked my supply of SKF, didn't have one that Stemco crossed to, otherwise it would have been yours for the shipping. I doubt I'll be doing many wheel seals anymore. I had some stock of the ones I used on my equipment.

Some of these installs have to have access holes/plugs in the cab to get headbolt out, That would preclude any in chassie boring. Portable boring is nice when there is room to work, and be sure it is set-up accurately, unfortunately, that is a rarity

To a point, they also suffered from being put where they were asked to do more then they should. I built a few, and while I wouldn't say they were great engines, by any stretch, At least in NA form, moving a load that was suited to that HP, nothing else came close to the fuel economy. They were an awkward engine to set up, requiring a lot of special tools. They were a favorite in Ford F700's for some reason.

3208 isn't a"throw a way' engine, it isn't lined, which means an overhaul is out of chassie. Pistons ride directly in the block, like a car engine. You can over-bore them. The D950 Kubota, I'm working on still has dry liners. Cat made that engine as cheap as possible for Ford, IIRC, and it was.

I've seen Cat 3208's listed in the parts or other lit for all kinds of trucks, but very few have I ever layed eyes on. I think the 3208 could be had in IHC's 9670! Although why is in open question. It wouldn't surprise me it was offered in the R, it would that someone would want on with that engine.

I went and took my "liner protrusion" gauge I have for checking liner height on Cummins rebuilds, to check the two remaining pistons, one is a few tho proud and the other a few tho under the deck? Hum could this have something to do with it? Another fractured piston pin! The replacement pin fitted piston he used have a thinner wall pin then the OEM IZUNI pistons he took out. Weighed them on a scale, 75g vs 100 g. I can't remember ever seeing two (or even one) fractured piston pins on an engine, let alone one that would still run! Knocked the old bushing out of the rod with the fractured pin and installed a new bushing, Easiest way to check and see if it is good, Bushing was a snug fit and was honed to size for the OEM pin. I saw that he also put a big divot in the upper rod bearing shell, looks like he hammered the rod out with a long screwdriver on the shell! So a new set for that rod as well. So all in all it is looking like: one set of rod bearing shells one liner one used rod That is it for purchased parts. re-fit the IZUNI pistons and pins, put the best set of rings on them, and put together, double check the head gasket I have to make sure it doesn't protrude inside the liner, and double check piston to head clearance.

You know you're dealing with a rebuilder who is really proud of his work, when he grinds the OEM stamping of the engine number off and this is the only ID on the engine!

I don't need a better picture, but thanks. On mine he had flipped the aircleaner around and bolted it with one bolt to the bellhousing where the timing hole cover was. I can see it bolts in front of and below the I/P where there are two hole that just happen to match the bracket for the air cleaner, imagine that? It seams like anyone and everyone with a small shop was producing these back then. Now the big players bought out the little guys and there are only a few producers still in the game.

All I ran in my Cummins were 14" organic clutches, Yeah they were rated for 1100 but I put 1400+ through them without slippage. Real easy on the flywheel and pressure plate also. If it holds under full load, why do you need more than that?

Thanks for the picture, BTW, Mine had been messed with and the air cleaner and overflow bottle were moved and poorly mounted. I can easily see how they are supposed to go on.

That is what the little on the internet suggests, but I have no experinace converting "Mack" model number to others.

Wacker LT-4? No, wait the cabinet is different.

Sorry, I'm no help.

That's the way mine went. I had been driving for 200 miles, came to a stop at the top of a ramp, and no low range! A cabover it is easier to get the back box off with the trans in the truck. A conventional it is going to working under the cab.

Ok, you have confirmed that the range syncro is the problem, either the piston/fork is not moving, but more likely the syncro itself has come apart not allowing it to move forward or back Take the lines off the range section at the back and make sure air is comeing through when you shift the range flipper on the stick

Put it back together and see if it will pull in high range.

In short: if it will go into deep reduction and come out (even to "neutral") then the peanut valve and deep reduction piston is moving. If it will pull in high range but not low range, (goes to Neutral in low) and you've check the air at the range ports, then it has to be the syncro, if you aren't getting air to the respective hi and lo range ports, then it is likely the slave on the side of the trans isn't shifting position when the main box goes through neutral. I had one go like that, pulled fine until I went to shift to low range, and got nothing, I could pull in high. Since on a 15 or 8LL the splitter either locks the LL to the output or the low range gear to the aux shaft output. Hard to explain in word, but the manual I linked to has good diagrams.

Here is the service manual: https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/transmissions/vehicle-transmissions/8ll/eaton-fuller-heavy-duty-transmissions-service-manual-trsm1500-en-us.pdf If what JM doesn't show anything, then you are going to have to go into the back box. If the range syncro cracks in 1/2 (something they can do) or the LL splittter dog can't slide for some reason. 1st test is can you get anything in high range? Try it from a stand still with the range in high and the front box in the lowest gear, and see if will move. If nothing in high or low range but only LL I'd be guessing the high/low range syncro has come apart and jammed.

Not a lot of room to adj the distributor on that set up!

No, a 6kw light tower. 1800 rpm tho.

I doubt the rings have 1 hr of run time on them. When ever you buy at auction is is a roll of the dice. I knew this didn't run when purchased and paid less then scrap, I can put a little into it and be fine. I need to buy some tooling to work on an engine this small, need a smaller "rack" for my index hone and a 75mm ring compressor. fortunately, the seller provided the old parts he took out, and they didn't have many hr on them either. According to the writing on the air cleaner, it has a grand total of 32 hr run time since 2013. Engine has a rebuild tag from some outfit I haven't heard of. My guess is both the block deck and head have been shaved, raising the compression and bringing the piston too close to the head. It likely ran ok when the engine came from the rebuilder, but when it got worked, the clearances were too tight and the pressures too high, which lead to one rod failure. The guy I got it from tried to rebuild and made it worse. piston to head clearance spec is 0.024-0.031". go to much it it will have low compression, with all that brings, go too little and you end up where I am at. I will try and end up in the higher end of that spec, but it all depends on what thickness gaskets are when compressed and what cylinder head shim I can lay my hands on. I'll start by measuring the piston protrusion or lack there of, in relation to the block deck, then mic the old head gasket thickness to get a ball park figure, then add in a shim if needed, and finely assemble with a piece of solder through the injector port and roll passed TDC to get the final assembly clearance. If it is not correct, then a new head gasket and more or different shim. I don't know of too many engines that can survive a running failure of a piston and not take out the block. Kubota's are tough little engines.

Got tore down this AM, block, head, crank are all good, needs one liner, one rod. Going with a good set of used pistons I have. These engines use a shim between the head gasket and head if the piston clearance isn't to spec (block or head have been decked) it looks like he needed one and didn't install one.