BOBWhite

Oil Baths are my favorite as well although running them with turbo chargers makes me a bit nervous. The used engine oil is usually clean enough to be used in oil bath air cleaners so they are pretty much free to operate, lots of people seem to hate them now though

Good grief you're right! I don't know how I didn't notice that before, and I keep forgetting that this isn't the original engine. Granted it's been running with this setup since the 80s or 90s and the engine is still very strong with little blow by but I still will take the tubes off to make sure its not dusting itself out. Maybe I'll use a piece of paper or a smoke test to see if any air is back feeding through the intercooler.

Got in a new temp gauge (175 degree thermostat turns out) and gave the engine a good bath but it's still pretty greasy. Gave the radiator a good clean out too, lots of dust in there. Did Mack use orange/reddish primer or is that the original color of the engine and it got painted grey later? Next two items on the list are valve lash + valve cover gaskets and the doors need attention. Not sure what I'm doing with these doors but looking for threads/advice

The AC panel Is just gone so I guess I'll be on the hunt for one of those. Good sized nest up there too which may be why it started leaking

That's what the PO said it worked really good but too many leaks to keep it running. I just am not sure where the controls would be, there is no "vents" its just an open hole (I'll take a pic if I remember) I think I'm missing some parts from the inside.

After a rain shower I noticed that I had a puddle of water on the floor. Looks like the Kysor AC roof unit will also need some attention. Don't need AC but If I need to seal it back up may as well get it working again. Parts or anything still available for these? I'm not sure what parts are missing from mine or how it was hooked up. The lines are still hooked up but I'm not sure about the electrics since the tag says it 24 volt.

Yes sir you are right it is the capillary type but I've never seen one that looks like that, I'm used to the metal shrouded ones. I swear I had a couple spares laying around but alas I will have to make a trip to the truck parts store.

I will have to take a closer look and see where the turbine vent/check-valve is because I haven't found it. That Farr air cleaner doesn't deaden much of the sound so that also makes it pretty loud. On that note does the tip turbine have an oil line going to it or does it have a sealed bearing for the turbine shaft? Does that bearing ever go bad?

Yep did that and they are moving just fine but it is adjusted so that they are open all the time so there might be something wrong with the shutter unit. It would be nice if the Shutters worked but since it's mostly a summer truck they won't be used most of the time anyway.

Well I found it just where you said it was and it matches the vin number (since it had frame work done I wasn't sure If it would). So it did have the ENDT865 in it originally, how neat! What year was the RS700s introduced and about how many did they make? Another thing I want to tackle on the truck Is setting the valve lash and cleaning/resealing everything. Do I need to remove the tip turbine unit to do this? or just the pipes going to it?

How can I tell if my truck is a Hayward? Did they make RS700s in Hayward?

It has a vin but the door tag is gone. Before the 1980s the Vin system wasn't standardized so there isn't much besides the serial number, and each brand was different. I'll take a look at number on the frame and see if it brings any useful info. Is there a decoder or would I have to send it into the Mack museum?

The door tags are gone or have been painted over. I'm not sure if there is a number on the frame that would tell me or just how I would get that information.

Thank you for all the support and advice! Happy easter as well! Still trying to get a coolant gauge back, so we taped the wire we thought it was to the sensor with no luck. Not sure if that center part comes out without dumping the coolant but hopefully I can wire something back up. How do you test the gauge? Should it move when it's grounded or when the circuit is open?

Thank you for that it looks exactly what I've got. What IH manual did that snippet come out of?

This seems more likely as I haven't seen any air lines go down there. I probably can't change the "pill" thing out without draining the coolant right? I will at least remove the pin and see if the shutters are moving or need lube

Here's a so so picture of the interior. Really good shape! Doors needs some attention but everything's there

So does air keep them closed and it springs open when there is no air? I haven't noticed them move any

My next question has to do with the shudders as I don't really know how they work. Are the actuators still available if this one Is bad? What temp should they open up? The temp gauge is not hooked up/can't find the wire so that's the first thing on my list.

Yeah I plan on hauling grain with it but hopefully I can keep it inside and mouse free. Our other truck with the 1693 was pretty rough starting last fall and it's pretty tired with a dropped liner, plus think this Mack will get double the fuel economy.

We sold that MH to my uncle years ago but I think he is still using it. checked the air cleaner part number today, Wix 542589 and found one on Amazon for pretty pricy but better get one primitively. Its probably be cheeper to convert it to canister but I'd imagine they'd have to be huge for all the air the tipturbine needs. Wow that tip turbine is LOUD once it gets going! I'll need earplugs if I work it all day.

My first question is tell me about these air cleaners, I've never been around them. Can you get new ones? I don't really want to put a canister on it I think it looks cool the way it is

I've been apart of your group for way too long now without a Mack truck, that is until today. I got a 1972 RS700L with a 283 Tipturbine, twin stick 5+2, and a grain box on the back. The owner extended the frame and swapped out the original V8 due to leaking liners and no parts (the door tags are gone so I have no way to confirm this for sure). The 283 engine runs very strong with no blow by and plenty of power! couldn't be happier! Never driven a twin stick so I'm still getting used to that, I just left it in direct the whole drive home but I'd imagine with 750 bushels on the back I'll need em. She drives like a dream! No squeaks or rattles, just smooth even unloaded. I've got lots of questions though! Much more to come!

I had a 98 year old friend past away last week, he was the last WW2 veteran that I knew. I see a lot of these AI videos, with some of them having millions of views and young men are gobbling them up, now that the war is out of living memory I really don't know what will happen. I feel as if we have opened a Pandoras box that was kept closed with the language barrier. The German movie Look Who's Back comes to mind, Don't think it couldn't happen again:

Joey you would probably know this; What years and models had the "Econovance" electronic Bocsh pump? I don't know if the Mh ever had that system or if they ever go bad, but that goes along with the subject of timing. Did you say you had some injectors replaced or was it just the injector lines? Either way finding good parts now is tough especially for fuel injectors. The cracking pressure of the injectors and the spill port timing of the pump is crucial for a smoke free smooth running engine, and most shops don't even offer to check that kind of thing anymore. Now maybe it is just a worn out engine but in that case you can limp it along for a long time if you know what you're doing and diligent about maintenance. I've heard good things about running diesel purge through the system to clear up smoke and smooth out the engine but it's not a permanent fix. Now only after you've checked valve lash, injection timing, and the works would I recommend a rebuild. If you are doing 400+ miles per day it's well worth it to schedule a rebuild even just for peace of mind, plan ahead and doing your research will make rebuilds not that big of deal. Hope this helps some